ls1neezy

my oil pan is level with the bottom of the crossmember . if your using the same mounts as i am , two pices of 2.5x2.5 1/8th steel tubing is what i used to mount the engine . drill a hole for the chevy style mounts . pritty straight foward .

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

yep..

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Just got my JBA headers in. Here's some test fit pictures. They're from a c5 corvette with a 1 and 5/8" piping and 2" collector outlet.

fwdsucks

Nice, are those CARB legal? Too bad for the damn steering shaft huh?

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's a problem. Actually I didn't think much concerning the quality of the JBA headers. I was disappointed when I saw the quality of them.

daftdrifting

god those headers are nasty! i mean for the money you would think they would be off he hook!! i wana see how it fits in car.. wha you have to do to make header fit! cut an go around im guessin like that one guy had to do. good luck wit swap! mine kicks *** and cant wait to hit the track to drift!!

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Depending on his engine placement and what I can see in the pics I'm guessing he'll have to cut the collector off on the drivers side all the way up towards where the tubes come together and fab up a way for the pipe to go around the steering shaft since the collect will most likely either be very close (on mine it might actually be touching the steering rack or the shaft) or at least make it so it needs to be modified to go around the shaft/rack.

On the passengers side, again depending on engine placement, it looks like the collect is going to be to far out and hit the frame rail. Just guessing from looking at the pics and from what slo_240... had to do with his JBA headers and also how my manifolds turned out and how close I ended up being to the starter and still being pretty close to the frame rail at the same time.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

damn thouse would work for me ubt my mounts are on the other side of the plate than yours. o well good info tho.

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Minor update. Someone asked the question of how we plug up the dip stick hole on the block since the GTO oil pan has its own. Well I threaded it using a 10 x 1.25 mm threader.... thing... and plugged it up with a bolt. Pretty simple.

Also, I changed the front cover gasket and front pulley seal for preventative measure. I must say this engine is REALLY easy to work on (Thanks GM) compared to some Japanese motors.

owen v8litew8

and its nice that the LS1 is all metric too

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Got my intake going. It's a 3.5" inlet and 9" long filter from AEM. I can post up a part number if you guys want it. It looks mean! I also changed my front cover gasket, intake gasket, crank front seal, and water pump gasket (not sure if i mentioned those already).

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

Looks good. All part number/supplier information is appreciated!

Sabre002

iTrader: (7)

With a intake like that you really need to watch you intake air temps. With the RX7 stuff we have found that anything less then a 4" tube just robs HP, and also the is needs to get some colder air rather then just sucking in all the hot air from right behind the radiator. Just letting you know what has been beat to death over on TC and some of the other forms.

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads up. Since the inlet/outlet of the MAF sensor is 3.5" what're you guys doing to get around that? Are they using bigger MAFs for new cars?

About the clutch line. I searched around and found that a manufacturer MCLEOD Industries make a quick connect fitting to the clutch slave cylinder and to a -4 AN fitting. Now you can make your hardlines or braided lines with a -4AN! That's it! I believe I paid 50-70 dollars. I'll have to double check but expect to pay around there. But any of the Mcleod's dealers could get it for your. Just mention what you've seen here (A male quick disconnect to a -4AN line for the slave cylinder. The braided line is about 3"). Here's some pix.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I ended up buying Mcleod's 48" long line ($65) that goes from the quick disconnect to a female -4 AN fitting and then I used a union to go from -4 male to -3 male (like 4$ from Jegs) to fit into the wilwood -3 female output the MC has. I did have to machine down the MC output some to get the union to be able to get the flared part to seat but it's going to make for an easy and clean install when it's all said and done. Just like I said in the 240 MC thread, more than one way to skin a cat.

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

Ted,

Where is that part number? How much slack did you have with the 4' line? Did you have a lot of extra line to deal with? As always, nice job.

Thanks, Ken.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I was going to post up the info in my thread when I got a chance to put together pics and things like that (been waiting to put a few updates up at once) but here's the part numbers and the such of what I used so far:

Here is the clutch line. I haven't mesured how long it actually is yet but it is pretty long. On the extra line, I am going to run the clutch line along the lip towards the passengers side and run it over the top of the brake booster and then go down to the transmission along the firewall to take up the extra slack. Might still have some extra to deal with though, haven't checked to see if it's going to be an issue or not. I think it's suppose to be 48" long according to the part number but don't know that for a fact yet since I haven't mesured it yet:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Here is the union adapter I went with:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52560_-1_10019

Part number: 555-100210

Desc: -3 AN to -4 AN Flare Reducer - Blue
Male Threads

And this is the MC I went with:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I used a dremel to machine down the output of the MC around 3/16" of an inch or so. Did that so the union adapter would fit and the flare was able to be the part that bottomed out and made a good seal. Ended up taking just a little bit to much off but it doesn't matter since the flare is where the sealing is being made at.

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info Ted. Ken.

THE_SUPRA

that looks really good! make sure you post up some videos

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

Hi Ted thanks for the info. I'll go that route and use Jeg's reducer for the MC.