My 240sx / S14 LS1 Swap - Progress *56k beware*
04-08-2007, 04:09 AM
#121
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Great progress! I am glad someone took my advice and did the same, they work great dont they?!
That ECU will fit under the dash, it takes massaging but it does fit. Mine now sits under the dash.
Brad, the wiring is very simple. The 14 gauge wire that feeds the gauges is the power lead and they are wired on the circuit in parallel so you wont have any voltage drops. The other end of the circuit would be the ground circuit for the ballast resistors of the gauge which are control by the variable resistors. I.E sending unit for fuel gauge, Thermistor for temp gauge - all variable grounding circuits.
Keep us updated on the Kouki! My favorite years.
That ECU will fit under the dash, it takes massaging but it does fit. Mine now sits under the dash.
Brad, the wiring is very simple. The 14 gauge wire that feeds the gauges is the power lead and they are wired on the circuit in parallel so you wont have any voltage drops. The other end of the circuit would be the ground circuit for the ballast resistors of the gauge which are control by the variable resistors. I.E sending unit for fuel gauge, Thermistor for temp gauge - all variable grounding circuits.
Keep us updated on the Kouki! My favorite years.
04-11-2007, 07:51 PM
#122
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ok. maybe i do have a problem. this could be why i keep triping the check engine light. low voltage on the knock sensors. any one know which of the 5 ign wires on the ls1 powers the knock sensors?
04-12-2007, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by fouz65
ok. maybe i do have a problem. this could be why i keep triping the check engine light. low voltage on the knock sensors. any one know which of the 5 ign wires on the ls1 powers the knock sensors?
I'm currently rewiring the PCM to fit under my dash as Slo_240sx did as well. Surprisingly everything fit through the hole in the firewall. I had to extend 3 connectors which was a total of 9 or so wires. Not very many! I am concerned though, I soldered the wires to extend it and when I turned the motor on it seemed to bog a bit. Maybe it's not getting a strong signal because of the extended wires and the solder? I'll have to verify that as I progress, but I won't be surprised if extending the wires caused an issue like it did before. It could also be that the PCM is relearning all the fuel/air mixtures. I did have the PCM reflashed so this could contribute to it.
I do have some pictures of the exhaust install. I'm using a dynomax 2 to 1 three inch outlet to an HKS "ricer" style exhaust. It's surprisingly quiet... I mean it scared me how quiet it was with those two mufflers. I was flooring it down the street and the people whom were at the exhaust shop couldn't even hear me! It has a very nice deep tone to it. Very mellow and low key - I love it! I'll get videos as soon as the install is done. I need to get my radiator fans installed so I can daily drive it.
04-12-2007, 09:55 AM
#124
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siiiiiiiiick!
lol on it being almost too quiet, hahhaha, thats good news for your future of getting no loud exhaust tickets but it sucks you cant hear the sweet rumble of the motor, doh!
lol on it being almost too quiet, hahhaha, thats good news for your future of getting no loud exhaust tickets but it sucks you cant hear the sweet rumble of the motor, doh!
04-12-2007, 12:13 PM
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Did you plumb cats into the exhaust? If not, you may have a problem being smog compliant. In MD there is a way around this, not sure how CA will deal with it.
04-12-2007, 03:51 PM
#126
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Originally Posted by the.erinyes
Did you plumb cats into the exhaust? If not, you may have a problem being smog compliant. In MD there is a way around this, not sure how CA will deal with it.
04-12-2007, 06:09 PM
#127
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I did plumb the cats in place. Luckily it all fits underneath the car.
There's a few RX7's here, along with hybrid swaps, who use LS1s in their car. They can pass smog because they've passed the state ref, which I plan to do soon as I get I get my car running the way I want it to.
There's a few RX7's here, along with hybrid swaps, who use LS1s in their car. They can pass smog because they've passed the state ref, which I plan to do soon as I get I get my car running the way I want it to.
04-13-2007, 02:54 PM
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i put 3 relays on today (like in the faq) on the ign wires. didnt fix low volt engine code for the knock sensors. i guess im going to have to replace them after all. 
04-15-2007, 08:38 PM
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Thanks for the complements. I've spent my time reinstalling the wiring underneath the dash and making eveything organized. I also hooked up the tachometer which was a matter of splicing into the tachometer wire on the red plug of the PCM and hooking it up to the tachometer wire on the gauge cluster. I was happy to know it didn't require a tachometer signal converter. This was initially noted by a technician over at Dakota Digital. I've also cleaned up the engine bay quite a bit by removing unnecessary wires, hooking up the alarm, etc. I'll get videos as soon as I wash my car 
and get my radiator cooling fans in. I did take it out a few times. First time though, a turbo'd Miata tried to race me. I could hear his wastegate open up, soon as I downshifted into 4th gear I pulled on him HARD. LS1 has some major power just out of the box. Great stuff!
and get my radiator cooling fans in. I did take it out a few times. First time though, a turbo'd Miata tried to race me. I could hear his wastegate open up, soon as I downshifted into 4th gear I pulled on him HARD. LS1 has some major power just out of the box. Great stuff! 
04-16-2007, 08:46 PM
#132
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Dude bro. When can the socal local group meet up to check out your awesome car? There are tons of socal 240 meets, just pick one and I'll be there rain or shine bro!
Anyhow, good job on the swap, looks clean.
Anyhow, good job on the swap, looks clean.
04-17-2007, 11:15 AM
#133
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Here's some suggestions I thought of to save installation time. I'm sure there's other options out there though:
- 0.5" spacers between x-member and chassis are beneficial to install. It allows for throttle body hood clearance.
- Using JBA headers will decrease install time. Cut at the collector and route by the steering column.
- Be sure to get a harness that has the OBD2 harness attached, otherwise it's very difficult to troubleshoot startup issues.
- A 1 piece driveshaft for my non-abs 5-speed ka24de by Driveshaft Shop was reused. Lengthes were spot on with the new LS1 yoke. (i can get the lengthes if anyone needs it).
- Pick up a mcloed quick-release connect for the T-56 slave cylinder and use 4AN line to the clutch cylinder.
- Use two low profile fans from SPAL with a SPAL PWN programmable fan controller. It's very easy to setup and taps into the factory temperature sensor at the front driverside of the block.
- Use the R32 GTS x-member. The motor mounts line up dead on with the pods (using sbc style mounts check previous page).
- Tachometer signals are compatible (240sx tach gauge and LS1 PCM). Splice it in and you're in business.
Last edited by mmdb; 04-17-2007 at 11:21 AM.
04-17-2007, 11:46 AM
#136
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Originally Posted by mmdb
^ That's the GTO dipstick and tube which was bent a bit to clear somethings.
04-17-2007, 09:11 PM
#139
Awesome build. I think the LSx 240 swap is sick.
After doing some research on it it doesn't seem like there's too much to it, then again it's always easier when someone else does it hah. What do you think was the most difficult part?
Do you use the stock pedal assembly?
After doing some research on it it doesn't seem like there's too much to it, then again it's always easier when someone else does it hah. What do you think was the most difficult part?
Do you use the stock pedal assembly?