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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 07:28 PM
  #81  
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Wiring. Anyone have a list of wires used/not used from the LS1 connectors (C100, C101, C105, 220, 230 Plugs) and from the LT1 connectors (C210. C220, C230, C100, C105). I have a full custom Autometer dash and pillar, so getting the gauges to work isn't an issue. Getting the LS1 to run in the LT1 car is the issue. FIRE AWAY, let me know what you got!

Thanks.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #82  
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Is it hard to hook up the A/C when doing this swap?

Brian
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #83  
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something i put together

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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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Default 94 T/A ls1

what's up guys! im new here... i have a 94 T/A LS1 6spd.. AKA The_Disciple and it was not that hard doing it. i did it n 2days..i was auto. i made it in to a 6spd. if i can be of any help, let me know! I just put a cam, but stock heads and internals and just a FEW bolt-on,running 11.72 on motor and shooting 100 shot of nitrus.. but not off the line and running 10.8.. ... Vids..go to www.streetmachinesracing.com
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:32 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by XxXTransAmXxX
Hey guys,
I've search and can't find a difinitive answer, nor thread. I have an LT1 car, that I'm swapping a LS1 in, I have the Motor, Trans, harness, accy's and PCM, K Member. What else do I need to make this conversion work? Will I need a whole different cluster? I have the 97 Digi Cluster. Any help will be appreciated thanks!!
I all so have a 94 with a Ls1.. i had to put fuel pump/every thing from the LS1. but i left the 94 K-member. u have to put the HOLE harness, under the dash and the key switch to. cuz of the security thats on the key, but its not that hard i did it n 2 days! if i can be of any help contact me at WWW.streetmachinesracing.com.....AKA The_Disciple
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Speartech
Yes, that's correct. You send us a factory LS1 harness and we'll modify it for a full plug and play back into the LT1 car. It's $500 for the mods and includes the correct diagnostic port when needed, etc.

Plug everything in and go!
This was the best purchase of my swap. Speartech did an awesome job at makeing my ls harness work in my lt car. It took me all of 15 mintues to install the harness and be done with it. WAY better then redoing all the wiring my self. Everythign was labled and packaged very nicely.

Also if anybody needs a 97 vette fuel rail/regulator PM me. I put both on my car band new and ran them for 3 days before I had to take it apart again. I'm just running a fuel aftermarket fuel system now so don't need it anymore.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 09:44 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Clai9
Is it hard to hook up the A/C when doing this swap?

Brian

You have to do some custom fabing from what I was told back a few years ago. I never put AC back in my car when I did the sawp. I don't think that the actual AC lines work with the lt ac parts left in the car.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 01:47 AM
  #88  
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i am really wondering the same thing about the ac part of my build anyone have pic's of what was fabricated or anything that would help????
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 12:25 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 95GreenZ28
Yes they do you can get them at GM parts direct. I finally have the part number so if anyone needs them just let me know
I need this part number, thanks.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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good thread
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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I agree very good thread. Fixing to start this swap myself.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:40 AM
  #92  
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Allright. I've read this entire thread and still have a few questions. As the signature indicates, my swap would be on a 1995 LT1 M6.

1. I would like to stay with a manual transmission. What is everyone doing for the tranny cossmembers? I would already be converting to a BMR LS1 style K-member, but don't know what is involved with getting the transmisson to fit.

2. If I had the Walbro 225 fuel pump with my current tank and lines, as long as I get a 1997 Corvette fuel rail, will there be absolutley no other fuel system modifications needed to make the swap work properly? Also, would this same modifications apply for an LS2/7 swap or soley an LS1 swap?

3. I saw someone post about changing out the entire wiring on the car, key switch and all other wiring "behind the dahs." Is just the "under the hood" harness what needs to be sent to Speartech in order for everything to work or does the "behind the dash" harness need to be sent/changed out to work right? What would you do about the VATS? I guess the PCM just wouldn't be looking for it?

4. Now on the A/C. Could you just get some fittings and make the switch? Or take the LS1 A/C hoses off the comprssor to say a hydrualic hose type shop and get them to change the hoses out with the fittings/lenghts you need to make it work on an LT1 car? And what about the A/C controls on the car as well as the defroster and such.

5. Havn't read anything on the brakes yet. Does the master cylinder need to be changed out? What about the vacuum lines to the cylinder?

Thats all for now. Sorry if some of the questions seem stupid, I'm just green when it comes to this topic.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Harvey
Allright. I've read this entire thread and still have a few questions. As the signature indicates, my swap would be on a 1995 LT1 M6.

1. I would like to stay with a manual transmission. What is everyone doing for the tranny cossmembers? I would already be converting to a BMR LS1 style K-member, but don't know what is involved with getting the transmisson to fit.

If you stay with the manual, you will not have to change the tranny crossmember. Easy enough.

2. If I had the Walbro 225 fuel pump with my current tank and lines, as long as I get a 1997 Corvette fuel rail, will there be absolutley no other fuel system modifications needed to make the swap work properly? Also, would this same modifications apply for an LS2/7 swap or soley an LS1 swap?

That is correct. If you want another option, here is what I did. Cut all the lines at the filter. Get a corvette fuel filter. It has the return built in. Connect the factory feed line to the new filter, make a hose to jump the factory return line and the new filter return line (its not pressurized so use some fuel line and some clamps, then run a braided line from the filter to the fuel rail, and run the vent line to the port on the drivers side if the intale behind the TB. I can send pics of my setup if you like.

3. I saw someone post about changing out the entire wiring on the car, key switch and all other wiring "behind the dahs." Is just the "under the hood" harness what needs to be sent to Speartech in order for everything to work or does the "behind the dash" harness need to be sent/changed out to work right? What would you do about the VATS? I guess the PCM just wouldn't be looking for it?

As far as the VATS, all you have to do is splice in a resistor (the ohm will match the key). All you have to do is send the LS1/2/6/ whatever harness to John @ speartech, and he will make it work. That is all.

4. Now on the A/C. Could you just get some fittings and make the switch? Or take the LS1 A/C hoses off the comprssor to say a hydrualic hose type shop and get them to change the hoses out with the fittings/lenghts you need to make it work on an LT1 car? And what about the A/C controls on the car as well as the defroster and such.

Didn't run AC on my car, so I have no clue

5. Havn't read anything on the brakes yet. Does the master cylinder need to be changed out? What about the vacuum lines to the cylinder?

Master cylinder does not need to be changed. I used a, LS1 tubular K member, so I just bent new lines. If you use the LT1 K with adapters, you won't have to change anything but the steering rack and knuckle.

Thats all for now. Sorry if some of the questions seem stupid, I'm just green when it comes to this topic.

Answered your questions in red. Hope that heps!
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #94  
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Those were all very good answers...except for the A/C. As you can see I live in Texas and the car is and still will be a daily driver, so not having an A/C is not an option. But, I assume that since everything else is possible, the A/C should be too.

I would like some pictures of your setup, if you don't mind. I think I understand what you did with the fuel system, but IMHO, it may be more expensive in the long run, but less headache to just buy the '97 Corvette fuel rail, as long as I can get one from GM. There seemed to be some debate about that earlier.

One thing I didn't ask was if the BMR LS1 tubular k-member uses the same mounting holes or will there be modifications needed there?
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 06:49 PM
  #95  
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I used the PA K-member and there was no alteration needed. Should be the same for the BMR. I did however have to bend new brake lines to match the new k-member. 15 bucks in stainless line, a bender, and 30 minutes and it was done. I actually like it better. I will try to dig up some pics of the underside of the car. I have a few of the topside.

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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #96  
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Looks good!

Did a little research today. I found the 1997 Corvette fuel rail from GM Performance Parts Zone for $236.64. So definitley cheaper to go with your setup, but I see less headaches this way. Maybe thats just me not being good at fab work.

Also, just for fun while I was there, I priced an LS2 engine, LS2 ECM and harness, and accessory drive system. The way I read that accessory drive system is that it does not come with an A/C compressor, but is the system you would buy if you want to run an A/C comprssor. Anyhow, grand total was around $7,500 minus taxes, shipping and what not.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #97  
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Not too bad. There is a guy selling a complete LS2 over on another board for like $4500. Thats pulley to tranny and intake to oil pan.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Hey THE BIZ.... What are you running for a regulator now?? Did you swap in a 98+ sending unit system or using a in line regulator? Thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AllaboutdaZ
nice info
what if you use a LS1 tank??
Using an LS1 tank will not work because the LS1 fual sending unit is different and will not work with the LT1 gauges unless you change everythinh out. Also..The stock LT1 fuel pump will work fine for a stock LS1, it worked fine for me even with headers, and a Stealth II cam. I never had a problem with low fuel pressure. Of course, this assumes your pump in a good working order. I have since swapped to a Racetronix, but the stock pump did fine for a few months till I got the money to swap it.

The Vette filter is used on 98-2004 Vettes and is the same for all. I got mine from ROCKAUTO.COM for about $25, they are about $50 from Napa or the like. The Vette filter will plug right into the fuel feed line comming from the tank and sit in the stock location. I then modified a stock LS1 fuel line and it runs from the filter to the engine. This is the cheapest and by far the easiest way I've found to set up the fuel system. I have seen others connect the Vette filter to the LT1 lines in the engine compartment and then run a line from the filter to the to the fuel rail, but to me it looks like ***.



The link in my sig has many more pics of my LS1 conversion.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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So is the Vette filter also a regulator??
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