For those that have asked, here is the A/C compressor, bracket, bolts, hoses, belt and the mounts/pedestals and bolts...

 

I don't think 2.3 inches will even get you back in the original shifter hole. I'm using ATS plates, but it should be the same fore/aft location as S&P. A pic of mine is at http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3948.html. I've heard of people just cutting a new hole in the floor for the shifter and then relocating the console rearward.

I haven't made up my mind what I'm going to do for a console yet. Either a '67 console, something from another car (4th gen maybe), or make something from scratch.

 

Check ou tthe custom console in the Reggie Jackson 69 LSX. I don't recall which mag it was in last month, but it is really cool. Ricks FIrst Gen and other also sell complete 68 and 69 console kits, but they do cost. The 67 is almost a coplete kit now, but we got lucky and bought an original in great shape with gauges and wiring. The 2.3 inches looks pretty close, but we won't know for certain until it is in as the back of the block may not be in the same spot. If it is, it is in the same location as the shifter on the T10 we pulled. This is the offset reccomended by S&P for this app, and they have done it into console cars, so I am giving them the benefit of the doubt. It is cool to note that the Mcleod slickshift can be ordered in any offset up to 4 inches from center in any direction. Once you figure out how to measure what they want, and order what you want, this does make swaps more possible for a lot of people, particularly bench seat cars. Part of our problem is that the car started it's life as an automatic on the column car, and someone converted it to a four speed out of a 62 Corvette. While it seems that the shifter is in the right spot, we don't know for certain. If you would, could you measure the location of the factory shifter hole relative to the seam (or some other fixed point?) We are adding the console, and know we will be able to make it look nice, but would really like to be able to say for certain that it will fit where the factory put it. Thanks.

Rodder, after looking through some of your pics, your motor and trans are about 1 inch further back than our. The bottom hole of the SBC mount uses forward bottom LS mount hole. Your plate is different from the S&P plate. THis is why the 2.3 won't reach on yours. Whatever the distance is between those two bolts holes is needs to be added to the 2.3 inches of offset on the Mcleod Slickshift.

 

Sounds like you may have been looking at the old !@$#@% Hooker plates that I installed originally. They put the engine right up against the firewall. The Autokraft (ATS clones) plates look like flipped-over S&P plates:
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3104.html
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3105.html

The fore-aft of the Autokraft plates is identical to the S&P, my mounts are just upside down and use the top block hole for the center of the mount instead of the bottom block hole. The shifter hole was cut with the Autokraft plates installed.

I found some pictures on camaros.net of where the hole is supposed to be on a 67:
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/tunnela.jpg
http://www.surfari.net/~scottmoo/tunnelb.jpg

 

Wow, Thanks a bunch! We will get that hole location marked for when we mock up the trans. I did see that you swapped the mount plates later. I will let you know how it fits, hopefully this weekend or next week.

 

Rodder, have you had problems with A1Cardonne rebuilds in the past? I have been using their stuff for years and this is the first I have heard of any problems. What assemblies have been wrong? Thanks for your advice so far!

 

I haven't bought one myself, but ehen I was researching steering upgrades, I ran across a couple of people who ordered the A1/Cardone IROC box and got a box with the "light" torsion bar in it, which results in the light over-assisted steering that our 1st Gens had from the factory. It bolts in the same as the IROC box and has the same ratio, just not the heavier feel. On the other hand, there are a TON of people over at camaros.net who have used the A1/Cardone box and love it.

And I have a general distrust of "remanufactured" parts. I've been burned by rebuilt alternators, master cylinders, AC compressors, and steering columns. Most recently two bad steering columns in a row from Ricks First Gen, at least the 2nd one is close enough that I can live with it for a while until I tear it down and fix it myself.

 

Unfortunately, we have had more problems with new parts over the last few years than rebuilds. Guess it all still comes down to supply chain issues and what day of the week something was done. You do tangentially bring up a solid point in that it is very important to make sure you have a warranty or return period with any big dollar part. The column issues you have had is exactly why we went with the ididit column. If you ever decide you can't live with the column you have, I highly recommend the Ididit retro-fit column. Not terribly expensive, looks nice, fits very well. SUmmit stocks them in paintable steel and chrome finish. Only bummer is you need to use a 69 or later steering wheel, though they said they were working on an adapter hub for earlier wheels. I also believe that you can use the 69 hub with an older wood ring wheel, but measure first, as I may be way off. I do reccoment using the Ididit wheel adapters, they fit nicely, are solid as can be, and look great.

EDIT: Ididit is now manufacturing columns that can use older steering wheels...

 

What is the general opinion of the Z06 OEM clutch/flywheel setup made by LUK? Still leaning towards Canterforce dual friction, but need to get some opinions here. I have always used Canterforce, but have seen a number of recomendations for the stock Z06 setup (which seems to run around $550). Thanks!

 

Which Z06? The LS6 Z06 is the same as the '02 LS1 Z28. I'm running the '06 LS7 Z06 clutch and love it so far. There's tons of clutch threads over in the manual trans forum on here.

 

Rodder,
Are you using the 24238412 CLutch and 12571611 Flywheel for the LS7? Is it working with your stock LS1 slave and throwout? I have found this setup for $405, and if it is what you are recomending, we will grab it!

 

Yep, that's the clutch/flywheel I'm using. I'm running a stock (new) '02 slave and throwout and the ATS-modified master. It's a great clutch for the street, the Vette drag-strip guys hate it though--apparently it can't handle high-rpm launches on drag radials/slicks.

Do you know about bleeding these through the reservoir with a vacuum pump? GM released a TSB on it, works better than the traditional pump-hold-squirt method and is a lot easier too.

 

For those that have wondered, the P/S pump fitting is the 16mm 1.5 pitch o-ring flair. Fits like a glove.

 

Not a lot of any interest to report today. We pushed the car into the driveway and went to town on the cowl, subframe, suspension and anything else we could reach. Started planning what sheen of black (flat, semi-flat, semi-gloss, and gloss) will go where. Summit finally came today, so we started sorting out the connectors, hoses and tubes. Everything looks pretty straight forward there. The next few days will mostly be little things. We will begin prepping the subframe for paint once the suspension pieces show up. Only want to pull it all apart once. Coil springs without a motor in the car SUCK to do, and I swore I never would agian, yet here I am doing it! Still hoping to get the first test fit of the motor and trans this weekend. We have decided to go with the LS7/LS2 Clutch kit with a new slave cylinder. Can't beat the price (SDPC want $560 delivered for Slave, Plate, Disc, Flywheel and Pilot), so we will call them in the morning. Finding a million little things we need to change while we are at it. Various little gaskets, screws and whatnot. This part isn't the fun part, but sure makes a difference when it is done. I absolutely hate when people just spray paint the crap out of everything in the way. Always looks tacky and lazy. We did order new brake lines and clamps, which is good, one of these lines looks a bit suspicious. Found a wire on the wiper motor that will need to be repaired, but other than that, most of the factory harness is in pretty decent shape.

 

Can you give me some information about your a/c unit. I have a non-ac 1st gen and I was going to install a vintage air unit. I was under the impression that the A/C compressor on ls1 could work in the first gen along with the vintage air unit. If that is not the case what other options do I have to get A/C into the car?

 

GM AC compressor is NOT compatible with the Vintage Air units. Some people have done it anyway, and it sorta works, for a little while.

 

then what are the other compressor / kit options.....

 

Vintage air units use a very different compressor. Most of the aftermarkets use a Sanden compressor.

Rodder, would it be an imposition to ask you for a few pics? We did our first test fit tonight, and things are not looking right. I will get pics up later, but the gist of it is the mounts we bought will not work. We bought fancy Poly mounts, and it turns out the added thickness will not work with the S&P adapter brackets. Cannot get it lined up. We are also worried about the wiper motor, and how close we are to the firewall, though we may have been way off on the angle, as we did not have the trans on for the test. Thanks!

 

Here is what we found in the test fit.

Look at how thick these poly mounts are-

They will not allow the engine to sit low enough to hit both bolt holes-

Close up of how far it is off (driver side bolt is in at bottom of slot-

General shot of test-


Any recommendations for a thinner rubber mount? Wanted poly, isn't happening, don't want LAP cheapies. Also, while we did not get the motor angled enough to really tell, we are a bit concerned about clearing the 67 style wiper motor, the heater hoses, and having a bit of trans tunnel clearance. Once we get new mounts, we will try again with just the engine, and if that goes well, we will try the engine and trans together to really get a better feel. There is TONS of clearance for the pan, makes us worried that we don't have the right mount stands on the cross member, but everything shows the 6cyl and small block mounts as being the same. Any pics of firewall clearance in a first gen would be very appreciated!!!!!

edit-
Just measured the mount stands on the crossmember. Should the pass side stand be taller than the driver stand? There is about a .5 inch difference.

 

I am by no means a 1st gen expert, but I have a thought on the mounts. Chevy had 2 styles of frame mount, a tall and narrow, and a short and wide. I don`t have enough experience to tell, but I`m thinking you may have the tall and narrow and need to run the short and wide to get the S & P adapters to work?

I don`t know if that is actually the problem, but I figured I would throw it out there.