Have you ever used those before? I've had some bad experiences with them spinning after they're installed. The ones that fit in the hex hole cut-outs obviously don't do this but you have the serrated barrel ones specified in that part number......

 

We use smaller ones at work all the time. As long as the hole is the correct drill (.531 in this case), shouldn't be an issue.

 

Took it easy tonight. We pulled the motor and trans back out, got them safely back on stands. Did a lot of thinking about the shifter in the console. We designed an aluminum plate that is the same as the original shift plate, but with a large opening. We also ordered a custom stitched leather boot. Turns out they are cheap! We will see how it works in a few weeks. Can you glue leather to aluminum??? Got the brake booster pulled, and the clutch rod. Mocked up the master cylinder (clutch) adapter plate, and it does not line up with the original clutch hole. Bummer. Guess we have to make the hole bigger. Not a lot else done. Waiting for a few parts, and really need to get lines pulled. Wiring is coming soon, not looking forward to it.

Getting easier every time!

Starting to clear off the firewall.

Was really hoping it would line up with the clutch rod hole, not even close.

 

or you could just cut one that is direct from the S&P template (looks like you did, but not 100% sure). i took their template from the website and blew the damned thing up:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1&page=7&pp=20

Basically, I kept resizing the small template pic posted at their website and printing it out until the center hole measured out to be 1-1/4". I probably have it around here somewhere if you want it - you can probably print and use that for a template (unless that's what you arleady did?)

 

It fits, put the slave on there and then install the bracket, I said the samething when I put mine on the fire wall, I post a pic but I'm not that talented,

 

It is tight, and requires a bit of finess, but the master will go in. It is VERY cloes to the seal lip though, so I may grind a little anyway. My bigger concern is the angle of the pushrod. For it to not hit the metal structure above, it is at a pretty severe down angle (like 33*). Is this an issue? If the pushrod was shorter, it would be fairly level if it was bolted into the existing hole in the clutch redal arm. Is there any reason we can't just shorten it, and use this hole? What travel at the pushrod are we looking for? I keep looking at the S&P weld on plate diagram for it, and it sure looks like it will hit the metal structure. I may be missing something here.... I know I have seen masters with adjustable length, any idea who sells them? I am definately worried about the master not being able to fully relax when the pedal isn't pushed. Rodder and SHifty, you got any ideas? I know Shifty's thread has a bit of info on a different master with a flat face, but we want to use this bloody bracket now that it is fitting.

 

I'm using the ATS bracket and modified master. The ATS mod is to shorten the pushrod and put an adjustable heim joint on it. pic at http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF2108.html.

My master goes through the original hole nicely, offset towards the top of it, then bolts to a new hole on the clutch pedal. pic at http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3203.html.

It strokes straight, and the max allowable rod travel is 15/16" according to the ATS instructions. I don't recall where I read it, but I remember reading that any angle on the pushrod relative to the cylinder bore will cause rapid wear and failure.

 

nice thread...keep up the good work guys

 

Took it pretty easy today as well. Figured out how to avoid welding a bracket on the clutch pedal. Verified the need for no more than 15/16" travel on the master cylinder (clutch). Shortened the rod on the master, and since it is solid, taped it for 3/8-16 and used a turnbuckle to reconnect the swivel joint. To make a bump stop, used a cap screw with a large head, and ground the brake booster support until travel was limited to 15/16 (as near as I could tell). Looks like it should work out well. Could have made the whole job easier by mounting the swivel a little lower on the pedal, but wanted to keep the rod as straight into the master as possible. Will get some pics of that arrangement up as soon as I remember to take some pics under the dash. We finished the mounting of the transmission crossmember. Stripped the rest of the firewall, cleaned it, primed it, and painted it semi-flat black. It looks so much better now. Kinda nice to have the whole thing one shade of black. Letting that cure tonight.

Prepping the firewall...

Primer...

Drying...

Pulling tape...

How the clutch bracket looks...

 

I'm doing the same stuff, if you look Stealth 71 he made a nice stop on the clutch pedal for his Chevelle, I need to shorted mine and do the same as you have,

 

Project lookin good

 

Well, it's softball season, so we didn't do much last night, mostly cleaned up the garage. Speartech harness came today! Starting to think about how to mount the computer. It has no mounting holes, so should be nice and difficult. Thinking about the pass inner wheelhouse or maybe right in front of the heaterbox. Don't have a ton of extra cabling to play with. Didn't really think about that, next time we will just order a custom harness to place the computer wherever we want it. Still waiting for SPeed Tech and Inline Tube. Inline had a few things on backorder, but bloody SpeedTech just didn't bother to ship our expidited order. Really pissed with Speed-Tech right now. These better be some nice Control Arms. Really was hoping to tackle the front suspension this weekend, guess we will tinker with the gas tank and rear suspension. Not what we wanted to do...

 

ANyone have a picture of the 2001 S-10 PCM mount bracket? It was reccomended to us for mounting our PCM. I cannot seem to find a picture of it, let alone figure out where I will get one. Any help appreciated here!

 

There is a seller on ebay that sells a lot of S10 parts. He has a salvage yard in Florida and can probably fix you up. I usually find his listings when I am looking at 8.5" rear ends. Search for an S10 posi rear and you'll probably find his listings.

 

We will check out the ebay guy, think that mount will help us place the computer. Wish there was more room under the dash, but there just isn't a nice way to mount it in the car without loosing the glovebox.

Spent some time this evening cleaning again. Working out how we are going to mate the 02 radiator and fans to the core support. Think we have a good idea. Found out that the adjustable fan relay isn't going to work out for us. There is no way it is fitting in the petcock. Have to think that through some more yet. Decided that we will drop the subframe. Have to get at the body mounts anyway, so might as well. It will make for a better paint job on the subframe. Tore apart the original engine harness, and started assesing what wires need replaced, removed, and what gets reused, and where it will go. It will be a very different harness. Getting excited, we may have it fired up this month!

 

Why aren't you using the computer to control the fans?

 

Well, that is an interesting story. When we bought our motor, we got a sheet to fill out to have the computer programmed. At that point, we had already decided that it would be pretty slick to run the fans as a stand alone unit, so had the guy remove everything about the fans from the computer. We still do think it is pretty neat to have the fans operate as an independant sub-system (I love built in isolation of single point of failure). We looked at a bunch of stand alone kits, and the S&P kit was pretty cheap, and would work great... if we didn't buy an 02 F-body radiator with the cast in petcock drain. Suddenly, the stand alone isn't as sweet. We will make it work however, even if I have to buy on of the be-cool kits and tap into the head or water pump. We do not want on of the kits with the probe you stick in the fins, that doesn't seem like a great idea to me. Also trying to decide why I cannot run my dual fans in parrallel. I am using 40A relays, the fans draw less than 20A.

 

We got a lot done today. First thing we accomplished is mounting the stock 2002 Firebird radiator to the core support. After a bit of jigling and measuring, and remembering to offset the radiator to clear the battery tray, we decided to cut the four square mounting holes that the radiator must have pushed up into the donor car. This was easily accomplished using the dremel and some cutoff wheels. It fit nicely. Then we cut a piece of angle iron to act as the lower brace. We will add some rubber isolation between the brace and the radiator. This should work slick. Ignore the bugs and dirt still on the radiator, we haven't cleaned it up yet.

Next we tackled the new leaf springs. Poly bushings and isolators, all new hardware. They went in pretty nicely, except we need to get some new bolts for the front side of the Slappers, the new spring cushions are pretty thick, and the front bolts are a little shorter than we would like. No worries, we can finish setting up the traction bars tomorrow.

The last thing we got done is the new stainless tank from Rock Valley. We setup the new sender unit, got it in, built up hoses (Shifty', you are right, stupid easy), made some pigtails for the wiring, and got it in. Went pretty easy. Only thing I don't know is if the 67 Camaro has a vented gas cap or not. I hope so, as I have the vent tube off the tank plugged for now. If anyone knows different, please let me know! Also, do we need the anti-squek stuff with the stainless tank? We re-used what we had as they looked pretty new, but they don't look very nice on the tank.

Overall, we are pretty happy with what we got done today. The only thing we are bummed about is not being able to get her back on the ground to finish tightening the suspension, but we just did not feel comfortable with the bolts in the slapper bars, so it can wait till tomorrow.

Just made the cutouts....

How the clips work...

Fabbing the brace...

Core in primer right before we painted it semi-flat.

Decided to turn the car for more room...

Pulling springs...

New springs in...

Gas tank is out. Really easy to do.

Rock Valley tank going in...

It is in!

 

I used new rubber pads on top of the tank and glued them to the body with gorilla snot (3M trim adhesive), and didn't use any pads on the stainless straps. In that last pic were the straps tight? I hand-bent my straps to fit the corners of the tank to get mine to fit flat against the bottom surfaces of the tank.

All stock first gen gas caps are vented. If you shake the cap, you should be able to hear the check valve rattling in it. The check valve is to only let air in, and not let fumes out.

 

Finished rear suspension
Not a lot to report today. We had a lot of household chores, as we have company coming. We did finish the rear suspension. Tightened the Slappers, and then put the car on the ground, and spent a bit of time jumping in the trunk and on the front end. After everything settled, we tightened the rear suspension, and set the Slappers. Should be a good thing. Had a fancy supper tonight, so we didn't get a chance to pull the anti-squeaks from the gas tank lowers, and final shape the straps. We are very happy with the new leafs. The rear of the car when it is on the ground measures 29 3/4 at the wheelwell sill on obth sides, used to measure 30.25 (drvr) and 29.25 (pass). The passenger side spring that came out is VERY soft, and has a slight twist along the length of it. Subframe connectors fit much better with the new springs as well. Looking to get some decent traction out of the stock size skinnies now....

There are over 80 pictures at our fquick- http://www.fquick.com/67RSSS

Finally finished, tires back off to give a bit of clearance running lines...

The garage all cleaned up (hey, that is a relative term) and ready for the next day...