Camaro swap headers
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Camaro swap headers I am in the process of putting a LS2 into my 69 Camaro and have started looking for headers. I think I will be using the S&P adapter plates unless convinced otherwise but I would like to know of your experience with LT headers for the swap. I have looked at Hookers and Stainless Works but am unsure which to get. The hookers seem to need to be dented to make them fit around the steering box and I don't want to dent them. any experience with the stainless works?
Hey man, maybe this link will help:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/653819-stainless-works-headers-sticky-section.html
You can do a search and find a lot of info on either type of header.
Personally, I would go with the SW Headers; better quality, you can polish them yourself and save some money, and you can use the S&P adapter plates. Good luck with whatever you decide on.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/653819-stainless-works-headers-sticky-section.html
You can do a search and find a lot of info on either type of header.
Personally, I would go with the SW Headers; better quality, you can polish them yourself and save some money, and you can use the S&P adapter plates. Good luck with whatever you decide on.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 251
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
The shop that did my LS1 swap is doing a '68 right now, using the Hooker headers with Hooker motor mount adapter plates. They fit beautifully, with more clearance around the power steering box than most 1st gen headers (about 1/2 inch), and good ground clearance as well. I strongly suspect that most people who are having trouble with them are not using the Hooker adapter plates.
The SW headers are going to have somewhat nicer construction quality, but you'll pay for that as well.
The SW headers are going to have somewhat nicer construction quality, but you'll pay for that as well.
I had to ding my Hooker to clear the steering box on my '68, using ATS plates. Hit the steering box in two places and the pitman arm. I originally used the Hooker plates, but didn't like how far back they put the engine. The S&P plates put the engine higher up so they might clear the pitman arm, but I'd expect at least one contact point with the box.
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3198.jpg
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF3198.jpg
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
71CamaroLS1 - about the 68 you were mentioning. How much clearence was it from the motor to the firewall. Also did you notice that with the motor set back, was there a need for a notched or aftermarket oil pan? Thanks for any info.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 251
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
Originally Posted by x-sprint
71CamaroLS1 - about the 68 you were mentioning. How much clearence was it from the motor to the firewall. Also did you notice that with the motor set back, was there a need for a notched or aftermarket oil pan? Thanks for any info.
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I'm using the s&p style mounts with hooker headers. During mock up I did noticed that they were close to the steering box and the pitman arm. I took a grinder to the box and arm. i still may have to ding it somewhere tho. If I had to do it over I would look at the stainless headers.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
71CamaroLS1 - Thanks for the assistance. The reason I was wondering about the oil pan is that I am going to run a Unisteer rack and "ROUGH" measurements leads me to believe the oil pan should clear the rack if the motor is set back enough. I need to pick up a flexible trans dipstick before I can test fit as the stock 4L60E dipstick hits the firewall leaving about 2 more inches to play with. Thanks again.
