LS1 swapped into an EVO!
02-22-2011, 09:47 PM
#161
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this thing is on the back burner right now , too much going around in the shop to do anything to it .
it is running , but still need to wire the N2O and fix a few things . for me personally it's tearing my heart to see it just sitting there , but guess we'll get back on it in the off season here ( summer ) .
it is running , but still need to wire the N2O and fix a few things . for me personally it's tearing my heart to see it just sitting there , but guess we'll get back on it in the off season here ( summer ) .
its the other stuff thats bogging me down ,,,, like work 
02-23-2011, 07:36 PM
#164
pointless swap went from a balance all wheel drive car to just another real wheel drive now if it was still a six speed and all wheel drive it would of been cool all the great handling in this car went to ****
03-04-2011, 05:15 AM
#165
As a former eve owner I can agree with you but also can appreciate the work and effort that went into this. Evos are great but this is unique, why not support something out of the norm? Keep up with the project guys, this kicks ***
06-05-2011, 06:13 PM
#166
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guess its about time for an update 
i took the evo under my wing
and now i'm working on it in myself . the plan is to get this thing done once and for all ( untill the owner gets another engine combo idea ),,,,,, speaking of that ; the owner decided to ditch the N2o engine and go with a turbo setup .
so in light of that decision ( and sooo many others like it ) i decided to brake the project into seperate and individual segments so that no one segment is affected by the other :
- redo the original kmember, mounts, and steering .
- redo the rear suspension and frame ( suspension mounts and subframe connectors)
- build the turbo kit ( plumbing , mounting , tubes , etc)
- redo the wiring in the car and engine compartment
this way if azooooz (the owner ) decides to change the engine combo once again all he has to do is drop the new combo in
so first order of bussiness is get rid of the Kmember and mounts , and build a new one with better steering angles and more beef to the whole structure.
so after that was done ( removing the old stuff) , started mocking up the new stuff on the car , i got it where the steering rack would sit further back than it did before and decided on where the mounts would go , then began bending and cutting the tubes .
i starte with the original subframe ends of the car ( they are used to attatch the lower control arms) and welded a "U" to connect them and hold the steering rack :
here you can see how it fits on the car ( still need to put a bump steer kit on the ends of the rack to get the rod angles right ):
and here is how it looks from the bottom , notice how the tie rods are completly straight now ( the rack used to sit about 2 to 3 inches forward of this location ) :
after finishing with the steering part it was time to move on to the engine mounting part of the process, so i welded up a pair of engine mounts that bolt tot he block and use round rubber bushings as mounts to connect the engine to the "pedistals" on the Kmember, here is how the finished product looks minus the bushings and powdercoating ( the flat bar underneath is only there to help figure out where the pan ends and keep the sides in place during the fabrication part) :
next order of bussiness was to redo the rear lower arms, the old ones were bulky and looked ugly , plus they were non adjustable . so i got a set of heavy duty chromolly rod ends and slapped together a pair of arms :
and here is the comparison of both old and new :
these were sent off to get powdercoated as well and i'm waiting for them to finish soon.
so now the plan is to get the kmember back in place , cut the steering shaft to length and attatch it to the rack , drop the N20 motor in and be done with the first part of the project
after that i'll be building the rear part of the suspension by cutting the old frame attatchement points off , cleaning the cross bar already there and welding new lower arm attatchement brackets ( something with a bunch of holes to give us more adjustability). after that i have to notch and box the cross bar for more driveshaft clearance, then move my attention to the upper arms attatchment points. these will be completly redone and "beefenised"
so more updates to come soon
i took the evo under my wing
and now i'm working on it in myself . the plan is to get this thing done once and for all ( untill the owner gets another engine combo idea ),,,,,, speaking of that ; the owner decided to ditch the N2o engine and go with a turbo setup .so in light of that decision ( and sooo many others like it
) i decided to brake the project into seperate and individual segments so that no one segment is affected by the other :- redo the original kmember, mounts, and steering .
- redo the rear suspension and frame ( suspension mounts and subframe connectors)
- build the turbo kit ( plumbing , mounting , tubes , etc)
- redo the wiring in the car and engine compartment
this way if azooooz (the owner ) decides to change the engine combo once again all he has to do is drop the new combo in
so first order of bussiness is get rid of the Kmember and mounts , and build a new one with better steering angles and more beef to the whole structure.
so after that was done ( removing the old stuff) , started mocking up the new stuff on the car , i got it where the steering rack would sit further back than it did before and decided on where the mounts would go , then began bending and cutting the tubes .
i starte with the original subframe ends of the car ( they are used to attatch the lower control arms) and welded a "U" to connect them and hold the steering rack :
here you can see how it fits on the car ( still need to put a bump steer kit on the ends of the rack to get the rod angles right ):
and here is how it looks from the bottom , notice how the tie rods are completly straight now ( the rack used to sit about 2 to 3 inches forward of this location ) :
after finishing with the steering part it was time to move on to the engine mounting part of the process, so i welded up a pair of engine mounts that bolt tot he block and use round rubber bushings as mounts to connect the engine to the "pedistals" on the Kmember, here is how the finished product looks minus the bushings and powdercoating ( the flat bar underneath is only there to help figure out where the pan ends and keep the sides in place during the fabrication part) :
next order of bussiness was to redo the rear lower arms, the old ones were bulky and looked ugly , plus they were non adjustable . so i got a set of heavy duty chromolly rod ends and slapped together a pair of arms :
and here is the comparison of both old and new :
these were sent off to get powdercoated as well and i'm waiting for them to finish soon.
so now the plan is to get the kmember back in place , cut the steering shaft to length and attatch it to the rack , drop the N20 motor in and be done with the first part of the project
after that i'll be building the rear part of the suspension by cutting the old frame attatchement points off , cleaning the cross bar already there and welding new lower arm attatchement brackets ( something with a bunch of holes to give us more adjustability). after that i have to notch and box the cross bar for more driveshaft clearance, then move my attention to the upper arms attatchment points. these will be completly redone and "beefenised"
so more updates to come soon
06-06-2011, 05:36 AM
#168
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Spent all this time on the car and it isn't even AWD. To all the guys saying that this swap is awesome or better than what it had before, whats the point of swapping the motor in an Evo if it isn't even AWD and its a solid. Its just another V8 swap thats only good for straight line racing.
Making 400whp in an Evo isn't even expensive or unreliable as people here think it is. My good friend made 400whp in his evo for the longest time and has over 60,000 miles at 400whp (100,000 miles total) that he spent on bolt ons and a 20g turbo. I don't know how much he spent but he has a hell of a lot of fun with it. He autocrosses it at local events every year and drives it in the rain, snow and even goes out mudding with it often without fail.
Making 400whp in an Evo isn't even expensive or unreliable as people here think it is. My good friend made 400whp in his evo for the longest time and has over 60,000 miles at 400whp (100,000 miles total) that he spent on bolt ons and a 20g turbo. I don't know how much he spent but he has a hell of a lot of fun with it. He autocrosses it at local events every year and drives it in the rain, snow and even goes out mudding with it often without fail.
06-06-2011, 07:11 AM
#169
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who said we're not going the AWD route?
just give me some time ,,,,, holden already makes an AWD monaro ( all i need is the oil pan/diff and maybe the transfercase ) .
either way , to each his own , you might not like it , others sure do
just give me some time ,,,,, holden already makes an AWD monaro ( all i need is the oil pan/diff and maybe the transfercase ) .
either way , to each his own , you might not like it , others sure do
06-06-2011, 11:14 AM
#170
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Spent all this time on the car and it isn't even AWD. To all the guys saying that this swap is awesome or better than what it had before, whats the point of swapping the motor in an Evo if it isn't even AWD and its a solid. Its just another V8 swap thats only good for straight line racing.
Making 400whp in an Evo isn't even expensive or unreliable as people here think it is. My good friend made 400whp in his evo for the longest time and has over 60,000 miles at 400whp (100,000 miles total) that he spent on bolt ons and a 20g turbo. I don't know how much he spent but he has a hell of a lot of fun with it. He autocrosses it at local events every year and drives it in the rain, snow and even goes out mudding with it often without fail.
Making 400whp in an Evo isn't even expensive or unreliable as people here think it is. My good friend made 400whp in his evo for the longest time and has over 60,000 miles at 400whp (100,000 miles total) that he spent on bolt ons and a 20g turbo. I don't know how much he spent but he has a hell of a lot of fun with it. He autocrosses it at local events every year and drives it in the rain, snow and even goes out mudding with it often without fail.
Maybe it is cool because it is different and most importantly what the OWNER wants to do with his car. Honestly the best thing about this swap is that it tweaks ******** that think they have been blessed with the unique gift of the knowledge regarding how properly build and use a given car.
If you want to build yours differently feel free. Novelty is cool. holier than thou car purists of any sort are ******* annoying. In here it is the ricers going on about how AWD is the best thing since sliced bread (yet strangely enough AWD cars still tend to have issues with 60 foot times since the motors do not make the broad range torque and when they do the cars **** out drivetrain parts.)
By the same token I hate the tards that claim the only thing to do with an old car is to restore it to factory specs. Well guess what 50s, 60s, and 70s tech sucked. That is why we make stuff differently now. Non-overdrive trans and no AC blew just as much then as it does not just they didn't have the easy options we do.
Admittedly not many of this class are found on these forums but then I would not have thought the first group would be here in force either since this is a conversions forum dedicated to swapping new motors into cars that where not originally cool enough to be blessed with the full 8 cylinders of awesome.
I could go on but I will leave that for my "I hate video" and post it up on youtube or something. More power to the owner of this one. I hope he gets the motivation back and finishes this build.
Disclaimer - This rant was not fully aimed at the poster above. And yes I am an ******* in general so take my rants with a grain of salt.
Last edited by rfrankb4; 06-06-2011 at 11:19 AM.
06-06-2011, 12:33 PM
#171
You do realize that by swapping the front spindles from one side to the other, you have effectively ruined the steering geometry of the car? The Ackerman will be all wrong now.
On a rear steer car, the tie rods mount toward the inside of the car, essentially drawing an invisible line from the pivot point of the spindle through the tie rod joint to the center of the rear axle for both sides of the car.
Front steer cars draw this same line, but the tie rods mount toward the outside of the car to achieve this same effect.
Basically, when you turn the wheels, the inside wheel is supposed to turn sharper than the outside wheel. With the spindles reversed the opposite will happen, which will probably wreck your low speed high steering angle handling.
I'm sure something else would probably suffer too, I haven't actually seen the spindles.
That is, unless you already addressed this issue somehow and I didn't read correctly
On a rear steer car, the tie rods mount toward the inside of the car, essentially drawing an invisible line from the pivot point of the spindle through the tie rod joint to the center of the rear axle for both sides of the car.
Front steer cars draw this same line, but the tie rods mount toward the outside of the car to achieve this same effect.
Basically, when you turn the wheels, the inside wheel is supposed to turn sharper than the outside wheel. With the spindles reversed the opposite will happen, which will probably wreck your low speed high steering angle handling.
I'm sure something else would probably suffer too, I haven't actually seen the spindles.
That is, unless you already addressed this issue somehow and I didn't read correctly
06-06-2011, 05:27 PM
#172
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thanks rfrankb4
killer noodle , that same thought came to our minds when we first started , but at the moment it was either leave the steering rack in the stock location,,, not going to happen cause it will share the same spot as the torque converter , or just use a mustang rack and flip the spindles for now untill we find other AWD spindles with correct tie rod location / angles and swap them in later.
killer noodle , that same thought came to our minds when we first started , but at the moment it was either leave the steering rack in the stock location,,, not going to happen cause it will share the same spot as the torque converter , or just use a mustang rack and flip the spindles for now untill we find other AWD spindles with correct tie rod location / angles and swap them in later.
06-07-2011, 01:30 AM
#173
The spindles are probably cast steel, you might be able to weld a new mounting point for the tie rod on it. Or cut off the existing mount and flip it over and have it welded/gusseted.
06-07-2011, 05:16 PM
#175
06-08-2011, 06:21 AM
#176
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Maybe it is cool because it is different and most importantly what the OWNER wants to do with his car. Honestly the best thing about this swap is that it tweaks ******** that think they have been blessed with the unique gift of the knowledge regarding how properly build and use a given car.
If you want to build yours differently feel free. Novelty is cool. holier than thou car purists of any sort are ******* annoying. In here it is the ricers going on about how AWD is the best thing since sliced bread (yet strangely enough AWD cars still tend to have issues with 60 foot times since the motors do not make the broad range torque and when they do the cars **** out drivetrain parts.)
By the same token I hate the tards that claim the only thing to do with an old car is to restore it to factory specs. Well guess what 50s, 60s, and 70s tech sucked. That is why we make stuff differently now. Non-overdrive trans and no AC blew just as much then as it does not just they didn't have the easy options we do.
Admittedly not many of this class are found on these forums but then I would not have thought the first group would be here in force either since this is a conversions forum dedicated to swapping new motors into cars that where not originally cool enough to be blessed with the full 8 cylinders of awesome.
I could go on but I will leave that for my "I hate video" and post it up on youtube or something. More power to the owner of this one. I hope he gets the motivation back and finishes this build.
Disclaimer - This rant was not fully aimed at the poster above. And yes I am an ******* in general so take my rants with a grain of salt.
If you want to build yours differently feel free. Novelty is cool. holier than thou car purists of any sort are ******* annoying. In here it is the ricers going on about how AWD is the best thing since sliced bread (yet strangely enough AWD cars still tend to have issues with 60 foot times since the motors do not make the broad range torque and when they do the cars **** out drivetrain parts.)
By the same token I hate the tards that claim the only thing to do with an old car is to restore it to factory specs. Well guess what 50s, 60s, and 70s tech sucked. That is why we make stuff differently now. Non-overdrive trans and no AC blew just as much then as it does not just they didn't have the easy options we do.
Admittedly not many of this class are found on these forums but then I would not have thought the first group would be here in force either since this is a conversions forum dedicated to swapping new motors into cars that where not originally cool enough to be blessed with the full 8 cylinders of awesome.
I could go on but I will leave that for my "I hate video" and post it up on youtube or something. More power to the owner of this one. I hope he gets the motivation back and finishes this build.
Disclaimer - This rant was not fully aimed at the poster above. And yes I am an ******* in general so take my rants with a grain of salt.
It has a solid axle from a foxbody Mustang, so it handles worse.
Its RWD, so it doesn't have the all weather versatility that the original setup was.
RX-7s and 240s benefit better from the LSX swap because they are RWD and IRS. This car's only advantage is that it has a V8 in it. Thats cool but it is now limited to being a straight line car. It would still get eaten up by Evos with the original drivetrain around the track.
Thats just my .2 cents.
06-12-2011, 10:35 PM
#178
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06-28-2011, 10:41 AM
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Actually the mustang fox chassis solid axles work very well from a handling perspective. There are pros and cons to both independent and solid axle setups. I myself prefer the solid axle, especially for drag race which it seems is what this project is intended for.
Signing up on this thread as well
Signing up on this thread as well
