Fuel sender is supposed to be 0-90ohms, right?
I had the purple fuel sender wire getting split between the PCM pin and the fuel gauge. Thought that might be screwing it up, so I disconnected the PCM - now the wire just goes to the gauge. Still same reading though.
I definitely got the GM gauge. Just double checked my packing slip from Jegs.
Chances are you have a 99+ fuel level sending unit in tank and a gauge for the old 98- style.
I have a 97 dash cluster in my car right now with the fuel level gauge hooked directly up to the 99+ fuel level sending unit, and I run out of gas at the half way point on my gauge. The first few times I almost was stranded!!!
I am hoping an intricate series of resistors, electrical tape, and crimps will solve the problem.
BUT, you may be on to something. The salvage yard told me that they sold me a 99 tank (with sending unit). But maybe they jooked me.
I'll have to look up the specs for the 98.
Maybe this weekend I'll take an ohm meter to both level senders and see how they differ.
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I have some wheel bearing issues - cars been up on jacks again, waiting for parts for the past 2 weeks. Bearing blew out and scrogged the hub.
So you might just have a more accurate 0/3 to 2/3 gauge?
So, to get an accurate signal... truley accurate you need to divide the ohms in half, then subtract 20.. hmm.. is that possible?
I know you can just throw a 50 ohm resistor inline and that will put your E semi-close.. and you can try different resistors to get it how you want, but your full mark is really going to mean you have about 2/3 fuel left.
If you wire a 166ohm resistor in parallell with the fuel level sender circuit, ...
When the fuel level sender shows 250ohms, you will see 100 (FULL)
When the fuel level sender shows 40 ohm, you will see 32 (1/3)
If you wire a 144ohm resistor in parallell with the fuel level sender circuit, ...
When the fuel level sender shows 240ohms, you will see 90 (FULL)
When the fuel level sender shows 40 ohm, you will see 31.30 (1/3)
So... where's that leave us?? *sigh*.. we'll never really see true E
I'm still pissed that my manual steared me so wrong. And of course I threw out the box for my gauge. Arrgh....
What I'm going to try this evening is fabbing my old fuel level sending unit to my 99+ assembly.. and then I'll have a true 0-90 ohm gauge. Perhaps you could look into that?
If that works, I'd still need a resistor to bump it down past E (or else risk thinking I have a little bit of gas when it's actually dry).
What you COULD do is this.. what I did.. Call up junk yards and get a ~95-98 fuel pump assembly and just take off the fuel level sender which is 0-90 and kind of rig it up for your tank. That's what I did for mine and it works very well.
So, you swapped the winding part, or the whole level assembly? As I recall, it was sort of a big one piece dealio. Urgh. Sounds like glue may be involved, eh?
Local yards won't sell me the sending unit... gotta buy the whole freakin tank. Ironic that way back when I got the tank, they gave me a 98 (or 97?) metal tank. I made them go get me the "correct" 99 unit. I needed to match up the FPR with the 99 PCM though.
No glue, just a dremel and 2 big tie straps. I cut a nice little housign for it in my 99 fuel pump assembly so it fit snug, then just added the straps so it wouldn't pop out. It was a bitch to squeeze the whole unit into the tank though.
Give www.tacreationsusa.com and see if they have your part.. If THEY don't have it you could try www.speedautomotive.com but use them as a last resort.
Or you could look up a part and perhaps order it from GM.





