Yeajimi

Where abouts on Long Island? I am just starting to throw a L33 into a S13. I'm sure there would be a couple things I could pick your brain about.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

David Vizard had a hand at MTI in the development of their LS7 head porting program. He wrote a short article about it here:

http://www.gofastnews.com/board/tech...oved-upon.html



They obviously removed the little pad above the spark plug! If it works for David Vizard...

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Somebody Pm'd me about my radiator:

I found my radiator on ebay, although monster motorsports is a good source also. Mine was custom built for Hendricks motorsports for a nascar qualifying car, but never used. Scored it for $260 (they are about $1300 custom/new)... twice because the first one I found UPS threw over my fence and destroyed it. There's only 26-27" between the frame rail which is much more narrow than 90% of the nascar radiators. But we have more room verticly. Also beware of the built in oil to water oil coolers because they will prevent you from putting any angle/v-mount because of frame rail clearance issues. The welds on the C&R are amazing. But beware of superspeedway radiators with >15 fins/sq.in. they may be a little too dense for street use. Mine is 15. Also don't go too thick if you don't need it. 5" thick radiators get pretty heavy once they are full of water.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I couldn't take driving just the explorer anymore and just bought a '95 miata. Don't worry, though, the LS7 nissan is still the priority. I've been going back and forth with both Katech and Oliver Rods, trying to decide between lube tubes or piston squirters. I got worried about small end lubrication with my dry sump cranking at 15" of vacuum. I'll let you all know which way I go.

The miata is equipped with pretty much the entire flyin' miata catalog including the Corky Bell designed whipple "Ubercharger U3". It's currently at 9 lbs and is a lot of fun. I called BEGi last week to ask about upping the boost and how to calculate a projected boost level based upon pulley drive ratio. I ended up speaking to Corky directly for about an hour! It was a real treat. I've read his book "Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems" cover-to-cover more than once. He was extremely helpful. He walked me through what turned out to be pretty simple math, and we talked about screw supercharges, and improvements he's thinking about/working on for my kit. It turns out that for a relatively narrow range (that I happen to be operating in), the pressure ratio (aka boost) = the pulley ratio. Flyin' miata reccomends not going over 12 psi on a stock 95 1.8L motor, but Corky said 14-15 is in the range of do-able with 93 octane and an excellent tune

[on a side note: Corky said that he's never found the limit of the 1.6 and he's done 18-21 lbs more than once, but the NBs don't even like 14lbs]

Currently my (stock?) pulleys are 80mm on the supercharger, and approximately 135mm (I just shuved a tape measure down there to guestimate) on the crank.
This gives me a pulley ratio of (135/80)=1.69
My Flyin' Miata boost gauge reads a max of about 9 psi
This equates to a pressure ratio of 1.61
(Almost the same, just like Corky said they would be!)

My new proposed 67mm pulley:
Gives me a pulley ratio of (135/67)=2.01
Which I'm hoping yeilds a max pressure ratio of 1.93 (or 13.7psi)


To that end Flyin' Miata sold me a very small supercharger pulley (67mm) that they had left over from when they stopped selling the kit. I got it at an excellent price because the didn't sell many because they don't recommend them. I also installed an LC1 wide band from innovative motorsports. I plan on polishing up the tune before I swap pulleys. The LC1 and new Link Ecu have not been fun to learn. But I shall overcome, and study, and practive until I am of EFI guru status!

Once the street tune is done I'll head over to my old shop in New Jersey, TTP, for some dyno sessions and a precision alignment. They just moved into a bigger/nicer facility in Little Falls and are having a grand opening BBQ tomarrow, if I can pry myself away from this computer, deny the urge to go play with the link ecu, and get enough studying done tonight I might stop by.

Traction is a serious problem. I think I might have an open diff, and the mud and snow rated 185 series tires don't help either. 949 racing wheels and some Hankook RS2s might be around the corner.

I've also installed a sparco ring steering wheel which is brilliant. It's 45mm smaller than stock in width, and even smaller in height as it's D shaped. My knees don't hit the wheel anymore! I tried a 3.3 ohm 1/2 watt resister for the airbag light but it didn't work. I'll try and redo it though because I may have put too much heat into the resister during install between my massive soldering gun and heat shrinking with a lighter.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I realized that not everyone know what lube tubes are, so here's my definition.

Basically Oliver only makes thick I-beam billet rods. The thickness allows them to use some fancy laser to bore two holes inside the rod lengthwise. The holes supply the small end with oil from the mains. Just like with piston squirters, more oil pressure/volume is probably a good thing.

When running a high vacuum sump pump there is no oil being splashed around lubricating the small end of the rod, and failures sometimes occur.

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/olivertubes.html

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

So I realized I've made the last 5 posts.

Anybody still reading this thing?

The lube tube rods showed up from oliver the other day!

And some news from Ohlins... but first I thought that I'd introduce my lastest distraction





A whipple charged and intercooled 95 miata with 220whp! It's a lot of fun. The second pic is not from mine, just what the kit looks like on a pre '94 with out an intercooler.

Ohlins informed me that they have lost my front shocks, including the tein camber plates, and tender springs. And the custom wooden crate that I spent an entire day making and requested be reused.
Feeling trapped and without a lot of options I asked what they planned to do about it and was informed that they would ship me a new set for $1500 which is supposedly below their cost. I asked if they had the newer DFV valving available and was informed... no. Also something that I have mixed feelings on is that they are steel, not Aluminum. I realize that the retail on these things is $3200, but honestly I don't exactly feel taken care of (at $1500) after a year of being dicked around, and not even getting my parts back.

Am I being unreasonable?

What would you guys do?

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

wow i've been out of the loop for a bit, haha.

on the trip to the myrtle beach event i averaged 29-30mpg with 400lbs of extra junk in the car and not exactly driving slowly.

the stock 4.08 gearing works pretty well, although it makes first gear almost useless. i recently had the car out for a track weekend at road atlanta and was able to run the entire track with only two shifts and my faster laps were in the 1.42's. i was running 225/245 NT-01's, race weight was probably 2800ish with me in the car. not terrible times for my second trackday and for a drift car with a bent frame . my instructor was guesstimating once i had a bit more seat time that i could be running easy mid 1:30's around that track, if not faster with some better brakes on the car and a lot more cajones.

judging by the differences in your car it should be outstanding.


oh and cool miata . i had a 1990 with greddy turbo kit, lots of upgrades to the basic kit, and running a link ECU. it's a great fun car, but imagine it with an LS1 under the hood.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I don't know man, it's for surely a lose lose situation for you and it's tough to really see a solution. I was thinking of going with Ohlins for a bit but after your experience I'm happy I didn't.

I don't know what I'd do there man, let us know how it goes though.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Im reading it, nice work!

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input guys.

I cantdrift, that's some very impressive mileage. And no reason you can't get into the 1:30s with what you have already. I hear lap times there are very "cajone" dependent.

Ted, thanx for the input. I go way out of my way to avoid "loose" situations, that was part of the reason I thought that I'd pay a little extra and deal with Ohlins USA rather than a more cottage tuner. I'm thinking about writing the president of the company. I don't have a whole lot more to loose.

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

I'm still reading. looks good. G

fouz65

people are reading.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Thanx Guys, I was startin to worry.

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

I always liked the body design on the 240's but they were under powered. This looks right up my alley. Nice work. G

1997ls1s10

iTrader: (2)

nice an

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I've been farting around looking at the most popular LS7 cams and comparing them to what I've been spec'n. Here's what I've gathered about the QM600 & Katech's Torquer:

QM600
Specs:113+X 23X/25X 6XX/6XX (14-24.5 overlap @ .050”)
Carlos from Vette-Air, “QM600 cam have made everyone pretty happy. With bolt-ons and tuning you are looking at 545 to 565 and with ported heads 575to 600 on pump gas!!!”
Peaks at 6500 with very little taper

600.3 RWHP / 534.2 Torque (RPM ported heads)

598 HP / 529 TQ (WCCH ported heads and bolt ons)

564RWHP / 501RWTQ bolt ons

Stock Dyno: 432 rwhp /419 rwtq
Bolt Ons & Tune: 490 / 462
QM600: 555.6 / 485.5

542rwhp and 485 ft-lbs (with only 24 peak timing)

542RWHP 482RWTQ w bolt ons 91 oct (baseline stock was 448 hp though)





Katech Torquer LS7 cam
Specs: 220/244 .615.648 110lsa (usually +4)
(12 overlap @ .050”) From 0 to 4 degrees advance: It increases torque about 6 lb-ft and sacrifices about 4hp

very drivable at 1500rpm in 6th peaks at 6500 rpm. Katech considers it a trade-off for drivability for a loss of power above 6000 rpm. Peaks at ~6400

06 Z06 makes about 500rwhp on a Mustang.

Depending on whose chassis dyno, we have seen 508-557rwhp

And exactly 600hp / 570 lb-ft of torque on an engine dyno.



In judging the aggressiveness of a cam I often look at the overlap first, and the qm600 definitely carries more overlap than the Torquer, despite the wider LSA. It's surprising to me that the qm600 doesn't seem to produce much more upstairs if any!? With both of these cams, it appears no one's made >565 whp without porting the heads on a 427cc LS7.

The cam I'm spec'n right now changes weekly, but for comparisons sake here's what I like today: 236/244 110 +4

If you use David Vizard's chart to determine LSA based on a ratio of discplacement to intake valve area, he states that the ideal LSA of an LS7 would be 108. I think that the LS7 can probably get away with a little bit wider of an LSA due to it's exceptional flow qualities, especially compared to the SBC heads that I believe David's chart was intended for.

Let's compare LSAs:
Vizard's Chart: 108
Mine:110
Katech:110
qm600:113
stock LS7: 120.5

Also from Vizard's Article:

Level 4 is considered the "street/strip" range of overlap given in "advertised" duration (~0.006" of lift). But once again, I think that for the LS7, these values need to be shifted a little more conservatively.

Let's compare the overlaps @ .050" lift
mine: 20 (69 @ 0.006)
qm600: 14-24.5
torquer: 12
stock LS7: -20

Per Vizard's chart (via overlap alone) my cam is so mild that it doesn't even qualify as a street strip cam! And the Torquer (and probably the qm600) is/are even more mild still. Katech has some videos on you tube of a c6 lugging along on the freeway at 52 mph in 6th gear @ ~1500 rpm. This mild overlap is probably part of the reason these cams are touted as being so "driveable".



Let's compare IVC ABDC @ .050" lift
mine:44 (68.5 @ 0.006)
qm600: ~44- ~52.5
torquer: 36-40
stock LS7: 42 (~66.5 @ 0.006)

I'm used to looking at LS1/LS2 cam numbers, and when I first sat down to spec out my own cam I thought that I had an extremely late IVC. For reference: Patrick G once said IVC no later than 46 (maybe 48?) on a 346 w/ 241 heads. I also presumed that the stock LS7 cam would never have a late IVC with its smallish 211 intake duration. But, interestingly, it's massive LSA of 120.5 pushes the IVC within 2 degrees of my cam! Even more interesting, you'll notice that Katech's cam has an IVC even earlier than the stock LS7 cam! So that's why they call it the TORQUER! Installing that cam, has the same effect upon your dynamic compression ratio, as milling the heads!

Re: future changes?

Before this is over, I may add a touch more exhaust duration, and reduce the advance. I don't know, we'll see!

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

One more thing I just noticed:

Katech's torquer cam raised the LS7s DCR from 8.5 to 9.1!
And this is still on pump gas! Wow. That goes a long way towards illustrating how well the quench and heat dissapating properties of the LS7 are engineered. A lot of the engine masters challenge engines seem to run with a DCR of right about 8.5. Very few people claim to run around on pump gas on the street with a DCR >9.0:1.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I spoke to Joey at Ohlins USA again today. Here are the Shock dynos from my new coil overs. He told me that they put 'em up on the dyno when they first go in because they had never seen these before in person, and were wondering what they would do.

There are runs for both rebound and compression at full soft and full hard (thus the 4 lines per graph). I'm hoping to get a dyno graph at each seperate setting for each corner later, mostly to just match the dampers left to right. Ohlins assures me that they will be the same L2R, but I'll believe it when I'm holding the graphs in my own hands. I'll shoot some PMs to those that know more about reading these than me and we'll all see what we can learn.

Front:


Rear:

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I went crazy and figured out the max wheel/tire that could be put under a 240sx. There have been a million posts asking, "will this wheel/tire fit?" Now you know.

MAX backspace (Same for s13 and s14)
Front~ 150-159mm
Rear~ 172-179mm

MAX Frontspace [backspace + frontspace = wheel width in mm]
S13 Front 95-105 (looks great at 99)
S13 Rear 80-95
S14 Front 109-116
S14 Rear 97-117 (110 really is perfect with a good r+p)

I also downloaded the Roehrig shock/spring dyno software and thought the displacement graphs might be helpful to some in addition to the above velocity graphs.

front


rear


I think it's interesting that the adjusters only significantly affect the low speed damping. The small change they make in high speed is the only fault I can find with the ohlins; at high speed the adjusters actually do the opposite of what they are supposed to, but to such a small degree that I don't think it is significant.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Here's some new pics:

The Oliver rods came back. Oliver is a class act! Every rod came back cleaned, oiled, and with each rod individually sealed in a heavy duty clear bag. Here's a pic of the recently added lube tubes.


I was asked to quantify my blocks placement so here ya go. Looks like a little less than 7" from the top of the block to the seam. With a 2" cowl I'd have a whole foot of clearance!


To the front face of the block was 14.125" behind the core support. I think that distance would be a little bit more in an s13. Also notice how rust/battery box free my engine bay is! Drilling that tray out was not fun!


At the front/top edge of the block I currently have 8" to the bottom of the hood. This high mount alt actually fits! But my GTO alternator is too big to big for the f-body alt bracket, so custom mount to the lower, driver side motor plate is coming up. Anyone need a billet, passenger side alternator hi mount for (I was told) a vette offset?