For anyone doing a Truck LS-x in a 68-72 A-body with the stock accessories intact, I hope it helps!

I sent this to a buddy of mine in a PM, but I figured some of you may find it helpfull, or at least know what to look out for.

I am using ATS motor mount adapters, a 2003 LQ9 out of an Escalade, the CTS-V pan, and a 4L60E.



My car is kicking my ***! Started working on it yesterday.

I couldn't figure out why the engine wouldn't sit right in the frame. Then I realized that the ATS mounts were upside down but, ironically, they fit on the motor. That's the reason I installed them the way I did initially. When I turned them right side up, the passenger mount wasn't even CLOSE to the holes because of the AC compressor bracket.

So, I call ATS and leave a message (it was only like 6am there). Then I realize that they never used a truck accessory drive setup when they mocked up the mounts. Why should they, really?

So I spend the next hour or so grinding and fitting the AC bracket to get the ATS mounts to the mount holes in the block. When all was said and done, everything fit, but I had to leave out the bottom bolt in the bracket to get everything to be "right". Its still plenty strong, as that bracket is really overkill.

Right about that time, Tyler from ATS calls me back and confirms my thoughts. If it didn't fit in the stock chassis, they didn't use in in mockup..... So no factory AC setup was used when they made their motor mount adapters.


I had already notched the front of the crossmember for the AC compressor so the motor could sit back. So now the engine fit down into the frame. But it was so close to the firewall, that I didn't think the trans bellhousing would fit. Sooooooo, I bolt the trans onto the engine and sure enough, I can't get the motor and trans far enough back to drop the motor past the front crossmember. And I even took out the trans crossmember so it wouldn't be in the way.

So I have the top and sides of the back of the crossmember cut and will do the rest maybe tomorrow night. Wheeeew!!!!!!!



I have pictures of the bracket and the notch in the front crossmember, but they're too large to post here.

 

I PM'd ya...

 

I can probably assume what bczee told you in the pm cuz he knows his stuff. However in case he missed it the engine will slip past the crossmember may take some persuasion witha hammer on the firewall(if you are using a 4l60e one of belhousing bolts on the driver side is particularly tricky) but it will fit. Once you get the sump slipped past the crossmember there is plenty of room.

 

There's about 4 inches that I can't make between the crossmember and the oil pan... Its not even close.


My firewall is already smoothed painted (not by me, and not the right color) and I don't want to hit it. That way, I can just sand it down and paint over it.


Thanks though..

 

Hmm the only thing I can figure then is that you have the engine pointed at too extreme of an angle upwards when you are trying to put it in or that whoever smoother your firewall moved it out quite a bit.

 

I got the engine as flat as I could. Even put a jack under the trans to bring the tail shaft up....


It just doesn't fit..



But it will!

 

I'm working on a 67 buick with a lq9 and using the truck accs. with no a/c though . I used autokraft mounts and oil pan . The pan fit perfect but the mounts needed shimming up to clear the drag link and the oilpan . I have about 1/2" clearence from firewall to the back of the pass head. The truck p/s pulley would'nt even go on the pump from hitting the gearbox. I used a smaller pulley from a 96 ford econoline van with a 351 (it took all day to find the right pulley). It has about 1" clearence now.The other issue I had was the hood closing. I had to remove the insulation and grind down the top intake cover bolt to get it to clear with the covers on .

 

maybe you need to lower the front of the engine.

 

mounts have to be switched around left to right i have talked to tyler on them. also been told by tyler and others - mark of sc&c that it's best to install tranny after engine is in such as 4l60. i do know you have to make some room for that monster 4l80e. sounds like a nice car kinda like my set up but no mention of howe ball joints.

 

Its strange how much difference there is between all these mounts.....


I have plenty of room between the power steering box and pulley, and the drag link clears as well....


I'm using a fiberglass hood, and I can't imagine it won't clear. I old GTO had a huge Pontiac motor in there with a Victor intake (very tall) and a 1050 carb (before I went EFI) and it all fit with a air cleaner.

 

Jacking up the trans does just that.... Like I said, it was almost flat....

 

If you look on the back of the mounts, its machined into the backs with "passenger" and "driver".... Pretty hard to mess that up.


Because my frame does not have the proper holes for the SB chevy frame mounts to properly bolt on, I have line everything up and tack weld the frame mounts where I want them......That gives me some extra freedowm, but its more work.

I want everything to come out in one piece. That menas its all got to go in in one piece.

 

pass/ driver call tylyer back he told me on my 72 chevlle to swap mounts around and the engine would drop right down in there with the ls2 oil pan with out a problem with the ls1 engine. glad i work for a dealer the ls2 oil pan cost 132.00

 

My CTS-V pan cost $75 shipped to my door...... Its not a money issue...

I caled Tyler before I bought the mounts and he said they would fit fine. And the engine did fit in the frame (I tried installing them backwards, upside down, and every other way I could think of), but the pulley would always end up hitting the steering box, or the A/C mount would hit the front of the crossmember...

Now the engine fits no problem, but the trans won't bolt up because of how close the back of the motor is to the firewall...

I'm probably going to finish cutting up the crossmember today. I didn't work on it at all this past weekend...

 

Well, I think I'm screwed with my Escalade accessories....


I got the motor to sit where I thought it needed to be last night (finished cutting out the rear of the crossmember) and had it all measured up so that it was pretty much square.

Then I figured I'd turn the steering wheel lock to lock to make sure there was no interferrence. All I got was about 2 turns to the drivers side and the engine was already moving. The center link hit the oil pan....

Also, I beleive the engine should be more forward, but the power steering pulley will hit the steering box....


Something is telling me I'm going to have to buy all F-body accessories.....



Has anyone ever used the truck accessories with the power steering pump in one of these cars and gotten it to work?

 

Instead of doing all this work, why not just try a different set of motor mount adapters?

 

If there were mounts specifically designed for this combination, I would have them already. Problem is, almost no one makes anything specific for the A-body crowd when it comes to swaps (its all for the 1st gen F-body guys) and certainly no one makes a kit for the truck accessories to fit in any older muscle car...



Seems to me they're pretty much all the same.... As described in the post above, we already know the Katec mounts are the same way...


Plus, labor is free. Mounts cost money.

 

They all move the enigine different heights verically and horizonally. I put an LS1 in a 77 vette and got a set that moved it back almost 3 inches. I guess in your case, you want to keep the factory compressor (btw all the compressors are pretty much the same for lsx accessories) so you going to have to cut away whatever you do. You need to think about you driveline angle though when doing all this. You could have some vibration issues. If a were you I'd get some different mounts, take a BFH to the firewall, and call it a day.

 

No thanks, I don't want my car to look like a hacked up POS.....


I think I'll just make up some 1/2 spacers like the guy above did and maybe change out the PS pulley...


Seems to be easier and cheaper and no one will ever notice either one...


As apposed to a caved in firewall.

 

Well, I finally got the front crossmember notched in the front and rear and all boxed up.... Motor and trans slide in now, but I still need to "clearance" the trans tunnel in a couple spots to get the motor back far enough and the trans up high enough for the stock crossmember to get under it.

Then I have to shim the motor up to clear the centerlink.. That's not going to be fun....