natedawg

I'm about 90% done with my swap today i tried to crank the engine over to build oil pressure before I actually start the engine and it wont crank.. i have 12v ignition at the coils and where need be. i had vats removed by pcm america.

its a 97 auto 240sx. is there any auto kill or disables that would cause it not to start? the car has no alarm or anything like that.

what wires should be on the starter? one purple "lug" and the 12v battery power. i checked the 12v power it has it. is it possible i have the purple lug on the wrong post? i also and wondering about the purple lug wire coming from the ecu it has two ends. one with a male plug and one with a oring (lug). do both ends need to be grounded? for the starter to crank?

thanks for anyone that has ideas about this.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

The big purple wire is your ignition switch. It does not actually go to the PCM. It is just a pass through in the harness. You attach the ring end to the solenoid, and the metri-pack end will go to your start position on your ignition switch. For GM, it is a big purple wire, and we just cut the end of each and put a single terminal weatherpack in to allow for easy disabling of the starter. When you give the purple wire +12V, the starter truns. Make sure the ground side of the solenoid is hooked up, and that you have a good ground between battery and block, block and chassis, and battery to chassis. Ground is important!!!!

natedawg

thats what i figured but everyone with 240s says you dont have to hook up the purple wire to anything besides the starter. so what wire do i hook the other end of purple wire too? 240 crew please chime in.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Whatever wire used to hook up to the starter with your old motor is the one you need to use. Also, you don't have to use the purple wire, IF you hook your old wire up to the starter. I like the cleaner install and saftey of using the wire routing from the donor, keeps it away from the headers nicely. Also, the connector we added is likehaving a starter kill location under the hood which is a nice thing for car shows.

natedawg

aight i think it's black/yellow wire i need someone to come home so i can crank the car and put the 12v tester in the plug and check it.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Why not just extend it w/ a long piece of wire so you can try it from the drivers seat. No need to wait for help.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

the solenoid has a ground connection?

natedawg

i still haven't figure out where to connect the end of the purple wire too on the 240. if you cut the end of the purple wire off and connect it to 12v (red wire) on the starter it cranks over.. and i got good oil pressure so thats good... i guess i could just connect it to the steering column but that wire has to be somewhere in the engine bay....

natedawg

it's not the black/yellow wire... i tried that mm...

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

THe starter has a strap from a stud to the body, and gets ground through the case connection to the block. Any electrical circuit needs to have both potentials to function. Cut that piece from the other stud, and your starter will not work!

Yellowbrother

iTrader: (2)

errrr....y don't joo just "hot-wire" it to test??? connect that purple wire to where it should go to the starter...and other end feed it 12v until it starts....then pull voltage...and yeah...check ur ground....ish ur motor grounded???

eagleuh1

Do you have battery positive going into your ignition switch yet. You should have a junction block somewhere that will connect to the battery and also supply power into the interior fuse box and ignition switch. Good luck.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Try this page and see if it's any help. It mentions something about a gruop of wires that have to be jumpered together for the car to start.
http://www.ka24development.com/cwilf...lectrical.html

Yellowbrother

iTrader: (2)

i think wat that site author was talking bout ish the park/neutral switch short that the auto tranny puts out to tell the ecu it's ok to start the car...wat he should've done is ran those two jumpers to the clutch switch but instead he short it instead giving it an always normally close circuit...in my nissan maxima that was going to the ecu...so unless he's using the 240sx ecu or not mite be the cause....best way is to pull out the voltmeter and start checking for voltage at the start position...

natedawg

okay i figure out the ignition deal.. but now my fuel pump wont kick on... i ran it right. pink/black wire to ls1.. then ground the black/white wire across the relay but still wont work.. mmm... any ideas? this one kinda stumps me. unless there is a starter kill for this too...

natedawg

i looked at it more.. i have power going to the ecu. but no power going to the black/pink wire. i have power at the top of the relay. but no power at the bottom yellow/black wire, which is fuel pump wire. I ran a jumper across the relay and ran the fuel pump for like 10 sec... but it didn't build up any pressure which i thought was weird.

any ideas about the black/pink wire power? should it have 12v? or what i should do to fix it?
and how long should it take to build pressure? i found this weird i hope i didn't install the Walbro wrong. don't know how you really could

natedawg

if I just connected 12 volts to the trigger wire side of the relay it should complete the circuit and make the fuel pump work. can i do that or do i need the ls1 trigger wire?

natedawg

anyone??

Yellowbrother

iTrader: (2)

i dun see y just putting 12 volts to get the pump running wouldn't work...

fouz65

if you have the 3 plugs that come off the ls1 harness (which i hope you do).
Large Plug C100 Plug
A PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 1 15A)
B DK GRN/WHT PCM 43 A/C Clutch Relay Control
C DK GRN PCM 18 A/C Clutch Status
D GRY TPS +5v to TCS
E DK BLU TPS signal to TCS
G PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (Tranny/EGR 15A)
H DK BLU PCM 33 Cooling Fan 2 and 3 Relay Control
J DK GRN PCM 42 Cooling Fan 1 Relay Control
K BLK TPS sensor low to TCS

C101 Plug
A YEL/BLK Low Coolant Sensor
B PNK Hot in Run and Start (IGN/INJ Bank 2 15A)
C BRN PCM 36 Air Pump Relay Control
D DK GRN/WHT PCM 9 Fuel Pump Relay Control
E PNK/BLK PCM 19 Ignition Positive Voltage for PCM
G ORN PCM 57 Battery Positive Voltage for PCM
H BLK/WHT Ground
K GRY/BLK PCM 53 TCS Spark Retard Signal to Brake Control Module

C105 Plug
B PNK Hot with IGN 1 Relay Engaged (TCC Stop Lamp Switch/MAF/O2 20A)
D DK GRN PCM 37 Cruise Control Inhibit
F WHT PCM 13 Cruise Engaged Signal
G WHT PCM 10 Tach out to Brake Control Module
H PPL PCM 4 AIR Solenoid Relay Control

this pink/black wire your talking about not having power sounds like c101/e. you have to add power to it. it dont get it from everything else.
all in all
1 orange=hot/battery
1 black= ground
5 pinks(counting the one with black stripe. 2 pinks on c100, 2 pinks on c101 and 1 pink on c105)=ign. run to ign, turn key, they get power.
1 green/white on c101/d=fuel pump. or run the fuel pump to battery to make sure it runs, for testing.
1 purple=start position on key. or just tap it to the battery till it starts and take it off as soon as it starts so you know your motor runs.

you need nothing else to hear it run. 1 hot, 1 grnd, 5 ign, 1 starter and ofcourse that flamable stuff.