The G-Body Swap Thread
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Originally Posted by BLWN1
Whch mounts move the engine farthest back?
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Originally Posted by BLWN1
I think thats gonna be right, you got your mated up yet?
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Originally Posted by GONEB4U
The Schoenfelds will not fit unless the motor moves back 1.5 to 2 inches. I'm using F-Body headers and have to message them on the passenger side the same way as SilverBullet73.
I'm thinking of trying these, I have a shoenfield header on the driver side fits great passenger didnt work though....How much or how big of dent you put in the tube to make it fit on the f-body headers? I looked at silver bullet pics hard to tell...
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On silver bullets pics it looks like the tube is nearly "massaged" to half diameter like how the longtubes on my sbc were when I got the car. Is there a proven combo that allows for not having to adjust the primaries? Like which mounts and headers just slide in? Im not adverse to doing a little clearance work but would like to avoid it if possible.
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Here is a link to some lsx motor mounts that are suppose to push the engine back as far as possible when turned upside down...which would probably make the Schoenfeld headers a direct bolt-on...here's the pic and info from the site.
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...ount2=84983468
![](https://store.nexternal.com/ats/images/LSXplatesMain.jpg)
General Motors vehicles are known for their versatility when it comes to swapping parts from chassis to chassis. The introduction of the LSX engine abruptly halted the ease of interchangeability between muscle cars and modern cars. Today the LSX engine swap is a very popular swap in the Pro-Touring community, but until recently it required serious fabrication to complete. ATS tackled this obstacle by machining up a set of aluminum engine adapters to locate the older style three-bolt engine mounts, to the modern four-bolt engine block. By flipping the engine mounts upside down, the LSX sits lower in the chassis, and as far back against the firewall as possible to promote good weight distribution and improve center of gravity. The plates allow a direct bolt in of an LSX engine into the engine bay of most GM muscle cars, and include all needed hardware, and optional polyurethane Energy Suspension engine mounts.
Note: Factory oil pans and A/C locations will not fit into chassis without modification or replacement
- Lightweight aluminum adapter plates allow bolt in of LSX engine in optimal
chassis location
- Polyurethane engine mounts resist oil, heat and vibration
- Comes pre-assembled with grade 8 hardware and black hard coating
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...ount2=84983468
![](https://store.nexternal.com/ats/images/LSXplatesMain.jpg)
General Motors vehicles are known for their versatility when it comes to swapping parts from chassis to chassis. The introduction of the LSX engine abruptly halted the ease of interchangeability between muscle cars and modern cars. Today the LSX engine swap is a very popular swap in the Pro-Touring community, but until recently it required serious fabrication to complete. ATS tackled this obstacle by machining up a set of aluminum engine adapters to locate the older style three-bolt engine mounts, to the modern four-bolt engine block. By flipping the engine mounts upside down, the LSX sits lower in the chassis, and as far back against the firewall as possible to promote good weight distribution and improve center of gravity. The plates allow a direct bolt in of an LSX engine into the engine bay of most GM muscle cars, and include all needed hardware, and optional polyurethane Energy Suspension engine mounts.
Note: Factory oil pans and A/C locations will not fit into chassis without modification or replacement
- Lightweight aluminum adapter plates allow bolt in of LSX engine in optimal
chassis location
- Polyurethane engine mounts resist oil, heat and vibration
- Comes pre-assembled with grade 8 hardware and black hard coating
Last edited by deeloc1; 09-27-2007 at 06:45 PM.
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Originally Posted by Verz
On silver bullets pics it looks like the tube is nearly "massaged" to half diameter like how the longtubes on my sbc were when I got the car. Is there a proven combo that allows for not having to adjust the primaries? Like which mounts and headers just slide in? Im not adverse to doing a little clearance work but would like to avoid it if possible.
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet73
I had to dent the tube to about half the diameter of the pipe. I know another member here, his name is rickbat, used these headers and did not have to clearance as much as I did, so it may depend on differences between car to car. I do need a better solution in my case so I may get mine modded to fit. From looking at the schoenfeld pics and using the header mounting bolt holes as a reference to where my engine sits, it doesn't look like the shoenfelds will fit without removing the ac box(rearmost tubes seem to be a problem). I may purchase a set to verify this. It may be a while until I can verify this since I'm on a tight budget right now. If I come across anything, I'll keep you guys posted.
well i have the shoenfields and they fit great on the drivers side...I have a non air box on my car so im not sure on using them with a air car....the first tube hit the crossmember so they wouldnt work on mine..I ordered a set of pacesetter today for a f-body hope they work theyll be here tommorrow...
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I know another member here, his name is rickbat, used these headers and did not have to clearance as much as I did,
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Originally Posted by John B
Rickbat used the F-body headers and my motor mounts for his installation since my mounts most closely mimic the original SBC engine location (5/8" rearward for the stock location).
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Sorry John! I forgot to mention that I used you're motor mounts too!
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Is there a set of headers that work well with Johns mounts? I'm curious and I have'nt seen a clean application yet.
#76
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[QUOTE=The F-body set-up that Rick & Silverbullet73 used is about as close as it gets (as far as I know) and the difference may be vehicle to vehicle variance Mfg tolerance at GM since my mounts are manufactured to within 0.08" tolerances.[/QUOTE]
So they are using headers made for 4th Gen F-bodies? Or F-body manifolds?
So they are using headers made for 4th Gen F-bodies? Or F-body manifolds?
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet73
Sorry John! I forgot to mention that I used you're motor mounts too! ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
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John were can i see pics of your mounts, Ive looked at your page but there no direct link to them that I have found.
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John were can i see pics of your mounts
Last edited by John B; 10-09-2007 at 04:33 PM.
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Here are some pics on the 1998 Hooker LTs with 3" Torque Tech exhaust. The exact part number that worked for me 2290-1HKR. There are a lot of hooker long tubes I'm not sure of the differences in the bends etc...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2290-1HKR/
Just had to put a small ding on the driver’s side header for the steering shaft. Passenger side header hits on the frame rail but you can flatten it enough to minimize rubbing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2290-1HKR/
Just had to put a small ding on the driver’s side header for the steering shaft. Passenger side header hits on the frame rail but you can flatten it enough to minimize rubbing.
Last edited by rickbat; 09-16-2010 at 07:26 AM.