The G-Body Swap Thread
#1061
Motor mounts
Read only the first 2 then last page so, after buying different LS plates from e-bay . I ended up buying the hooker clamshell style from summit racing. Using hedman mid lenght headers. Retained my factory frame mounts. With truck intake I have about 3/8" hood clearance with flat hood. Hope this helps out some.
#1063
I tried making this laying on my back, with LT headers in my way. Was hard trying to get the pen up there and mark it perfectly.
When I move the shifter this is how it looks on the detent plate now.
May need to make a new detent plate.
Last edited by BOXCHEV; 12-16-2013 at 09:05 PM.
#1064
Hello, I have a Lq4 6.0 that I am going to swap into an 86 Monte Carlo ss, I have read through this thread and compiled the following info, any feedback or clarification would be greatly appreciated.
1. Use the transdapt 4595 1" set back plates
2. Use the caddy cts-v oil pan
3. Pacesetter f-body long tube headers work we'll with the transdapt plates.
4. 4.3 efi fuel tank with the turbo regal/ gn sending unit along with a walbro 255 seems to be the correct combo.
5. The truck accessories work with 1 inch set back mounts, but a smaller 105 amp alternator may be needed to clear the stock hood.
6. I have a question here, will the truck intake clear the stock hood when used with the transdapt plates? Some people use the truck intake while others seem to have clearance problems?
Any input is greatly appreciated
1. Use the transdapt 4595 1" set back plates
2. Use the caddy cts-v oil pan
3. Pacesetter f-body long tube headers work we'll with the transdapt plates.
4. 4.3 efi fuel tank with the turbo regal/ gn sending unit along with a walbro 255 seems to be the correct combo.
5. The truck accessories work with 1 inch set back mounts, but a smaller 105 amp alternator may be needed to clear the stock hood.
6. I have a question here, will the truck intake clear the stock hood when used with the transdapt plates? Some people use the truck intake while others seem to have clearance problems?
Any input is greatly appreciated
#1065
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Figured I'd update you guys on the swap I'm halfway in....Went with the TSP Texas Speed & Performance 1-3/4 inch 98-02 F-body stainless steel long tubes and with the Ebay 1 inch set back plates, these headers fit and bolted right up with minor modding needed. Only thing we had to do passenger side is dent one primary to clear the rear LCA bracket and that side fit great. Driver side, we needed to move one of the brake lines off the proportion valve and that side fit. Only hurdle now is how close the shifter arm is for the floor shifter. Other than that, best 450 I spent so far. Hell least these wont rust or anything!
Hopefully you guys appreciate the post....since I was not having spending 800+ for direct fit coated headers or pacesetters and have to mod them to fit and watch them rust away.
I will say this, without the set back plates, I am not sure at all that these will still clear, but if you go to my build thread and check out the pictures you can get a better idea.
Hopefully you guys appreciate the post....since I was not having spending 800+ for direct fit coated headers or pacesetters and have to mod them to fit and watch them rust away.
I will say this, without the set back plates, I am not sure at all that these will still clear, but if you go to my build thread and check out the pictures you can get a better idea.
#1066
Read only the first 2 then last page so, after buying different LS plates from e-bay . I ended up buying the hooker clamshell style from summit racing. Using hedman mid lenght headers. Retained my factory frame mounts. With truck intake I have about 3/8" hood clearance with flat hood. Hope this helps out some.
#1067
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
digital dash
hey guys i get asked this quite frequently so i am going to post some simple directions on how to get your digital dash to read from your swap ecu.
1. find vss out put of your donor harness. usually pin 50 green connector
2.find your speedo buffer under your dash.
3. connect vss output to brown wire out of the buffer that goes to the cluster.
4. set vss output to 4000ppm in your tune via hptuners/efilive.
caspers has/had a 135mph chip to raise the limit. you'll need it because 85 in a ls1 g body comes pretty fast.
this is from memory. i gave my notes to the cars new owner but this should get you there. thanks
1. find vss out put of your donor harness. usually pin 50 green connector
2.find your speedo buffer under your dash.
3. connect vss output to brown wire out of the buffer that goes to the cluster.
4. set vss output to 4000ppm in your tune via hptuners/efilive.
caspers has/had a 135mph chip to raise the limit. you'll need it because 85 in a ls1 g body comes pretty fast.
this is from memory. i gave my notes to the cars new owner but this should get you there. thanks
#1070
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
Ok, lol. I hate to ask, im usually the "search" bandit in the FI section. But am i seeing that i cant use my current Fbody pan? Also, i'm seeing a ALOT of clamshell talk, and everything i found with these setback plates shows people using them, is there any solid options out there? I can make them if need be, but for 100 bucks or less, id rather buy them. Also, i suppose i could always modify the K-member if i needed.
Im ditching the LS-Mustang deal, im kind of over all the mustangs, so im jumping ship to the Gbody world with an 86MCSS.
Im ditching the LS-Mustang deal, im kind of over all the mustangs, so im jumping ship to the Gbody world with an 86MCSS.
#1071
I put a ls2 in my 78 regal I used a f body oil pan, chevy 350 car clamshells ( trucks are different ) 350 motor mounts, and eBay 1" setback plates. Fit was great with no issues other than need a hood scoop to clear the intake and carb setup but you should have no issues if you are go FI
#1072
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
I put a ls2 in my 78 regal I used a f body oil pan, chevy 350 car clamshells ( trucks are different ) 350 motor mounts, and eBay 1" setback plates. Fit was great with no issues other than need a hood scoop to clear the intake and carb setup but you should have no issues if you are go FI
Looks like maybe this would work, the ebay 1" setback plates in conjunction with this kit from moroso.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/200798397219?lpid=82
#1074
If you use the Moroso solid mounts (ears and frame pads) with adaptor plates on the block you have to elongate the holes in the ears to make up the difference of the thickness of the adaptor plate.
I just did it with m G-body swap, just takes a little time but not a big deal at all.
I'm also using pace setter headers P/N 2256 and had to flatten one tube on the passenger side slightly, nothing major.
I just did it with m G-body swap, just takes a little time but not a big deal at all.
I'm also using pace setter headers P/N 2256 and had to flatten one tube on the passenger side slightly, nothing major.
#1075
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
If you use the Moroso solid mounts (ears and frame pads) with adaptor plates on the block you have to elongate the holes in the ears to make up the difference of the thickness of the adaptor plate.
I just did it with m G-body swap, just takes a little time but not a big deal at all.
I'm also using pace setter headers P/N 2256 and had to flatten one tube on the passenger side slightly, nothing major.
I just did it with m G-body swap, just takes a little time but not a big deal at all.
I'm also using pace setter headers P/N 2256 and had to flatten one tube on the passenger side slightly, nothing major.
Drive around on that until i gernade the rear end...
#1077
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UMI has some billet soild mounts for the Fbody that bolt directly on the LS block and they also have the frame mounts for the Gbody they will work with cost about $212 on sale that route but way cleaner looking!
#1080
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
I used the stock shifter, cable, & trans mount along with the above shift arm that I plasma cut at work.