The G-Body Swap Thread
got mine all mounted up in the car last night.
1985 Monte SS
$100 160k 2003 5.3 LM7 from JY with 0411 PCM (No harness)
PSIConversions harness
Moroso solid SBC mounts & EBay 1" setback swap plates
H3 "Muscle Car" Oil pan
Stock truck accessories & intake
LS1 cam, PAC springs, LS9 MLS headgaskets, KMJ studs
Drivers side Fbody manifold
Passenger side truck manifold
04 4L80E w/ transgo HD2
Stock 80E converter at this time. Soon to be 4k CircleD Triple Billet
Iceman crossmember
Total spent for engine swap: $1356
I already had the 80E in the car
the Passenger valve cover rear coil mount boss needs to be hacked off as it just barely touches the AC box but that's about the only interference I've ran into. Still haven't tried the hood but it looks promising. Oil pan does hang lower than I would like. I'll get some measurements of that at some point.
1985 Monte SS
$100 160k 2003 5.3 LM7 from JY with 0411 PCM (No harness)
PSIConversions harness
Moroso solid SBC mounts & EBay 1" setback swap plates
H3 "Muscle Car" Oil pan
Stock truck accessories & intake
LS1 cam, PAC springs, LS9 MLS headgaskets, KMJ studs
Drivers side Fbody manifold
Passenger side truck manifold
04 4L80E w/ transgo HD2
Stock 80E converter at this time. Soon to be 4k CircleD Triple Billet
Iceman crossmember
Total spent for engine swap: $1356
I already had the 80E in the car
the Passenger valve cover rear coil mount boss needs to be hacked off as it just barely touches the AC box but that's about the only interference I've ran into. Still haven't tried the hood but it looks promising. Oil pan does hang lower than I would like. I'll get some measurements of that at some point.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
The lines for my first swap I had custom made at a local A/C shop. I had re-used the factory condenser with drivers side connections so I wanted it to be aluminum hardline across the radiator.
The other swap that I did I made sure to get the cutlass condenser so that I could just run rubber a/c lines. I can`t remember which place I bought the fittings from but I just googled for them. Mastercool makes an a/c line crimper so that you can crimp the ends on yourself, or some napa stores can crimp the ends for you.
If you have the older red/blue truck PCM like I do, I just re-used the g-body a/c wiring and controls and jumped out the low pressure switch on the truck harness, and then hooked the a/c request signal (red pin 17) to the +12v side of my a/c clutch. That way whenever the clutch is engaged it turns my idle up and turns the radiator fan on. If I was doing the wiring again, I would probably hook up the wire from the g-body A/C controls directly to red pin 17, and hook the g-body low pressure switch up to the PCM. Then if you use the underhood fuse/relay center the rest of the compressor wiring is taken care of already. If you have the newer blue/green pcm with the serial data request for A/C it gets a lot more complicated. I asked HPTuners to add in the parameter so we can set the PCM to accept a 12v A/C request......but I never got a response. As of now you have to either mod the PCM with another editor, or keep the pcm out of the a/c status loop
The other swap that I did I made sure to get the cutlass condenser so that I could just run rubber a/c lines. I can`t remember which place I bought the fittings from but I just googled for them. Mastercool makes an a/c line crimper so that you can crimp the ends on yourself, or some napa stores can crimp the ends for you.
If you have the older red/blue truck PCM like I do, I just re-used the g-body a/c wiring and controls and jumped out the low pressure switch on the truck harness, and then hooked the a/c request signal (red pin 17) to the +12v side of my a/c clutch. That way whenever the clutch is engaged it turns my idle up and turns the radiator fan on. If I was doing the wiring again, I would probably hook up the wire from the g-body A/C controls directly to red pin 17, and hook the g-body low pressure switch up to the PCM. Then if you use the underhood fuse/relay center the rest of the compressor wiring is taken care of already. If you have the newer blue/green pcm with the serial data request for A/C it gets a lot more complicated. I asked HPTuners to add in the parameter so we can set the PCM to accept a 12v A/C request......but I never got a response. As of now you have to either mod the PCM with another editor, or keep the pcm out of the a/c status loop
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 51
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
The lines for my first swap I had custom made at a local A/C shop. I had re-used the factory condenser with drivers side connections so I wanted it to be aluminum hardline across the radiator.
The other swap that I did I made sure to get the cutlass condenser so that I could just run rubber a/c lines. I can`t remember which place I bought the fittings from but I just googled for them. Mastercool makes an a/c line crimper so that you can crimp the ends on yourself, or some napa stores can crimp the ends for you.
If you have the older red/blue truck PCM like I do, I just re-used the g-body a/c wiring and controls and jumped out the low pressure switch on the truck harness, and then hooked the a/c request signal (red pin 17) to the +12v side of my a/c clutch. That way whenever the clutch is engaged it turns my idle up and turns the radiator fan on. If I was doing the wiring again, I would probably hook up the wire from the g-body A/C controls directly to red pin 17, and hook the g-body low pressure switch up to the PCM. Then if you use the underhood fuse/relay center the rest of the compressor wiring is taken care of already. If you have the newer blue/green pcm with the serial data request for A/C it gets a lot more complicated. I asked HPTuners to add in the parameter so we can set the PCM to accept a 12v A/C request......but I never got a response. As of now you have to either mod the PCM with another editor, or keep the pcm out of the a/c status loop
The other swap that I did I made sure to get the cutlass condenser so that I could just run rubber a/c lines. I can`t remember which place I bought the fittings from but I just googled for them. Mastercool makes an a/c line crimper so that you can crimp the ends on yourself, or some napa stores can crimp the ends for you.
If you have the older red/blue truck PCM like I do, I just re-used the g-body a/c wiring and controls and jumped out the low pressure switch on the truck harness, and then hooked the a/c request signal (red pin 17) to the +12v side of my a/c clutch. That way whenever the clutch is engaged it turns my idle up and turns the radiator fan on. If I was doing the wiring again, I would probably hook up the wire from the g-body A/C controls directly to red pin 17, and hook the g-body low pressure switch up to the PCM. Then if you use the underhood fuse/relay center the rest of the compressor wiring is taken care of already. If you have the newer blue/green pcm with the serial data request for A/C it gets a lot more complicated. I asked HPTuners to add in the parameter so we can set the PCM to accept a 12v A/C request......but I never got a response. As of now you have to either mod the PCM with another editor, or keep the pcm out of the a/c status loop
I am really tempted to see if I could adapt the whole F-body system to the car.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 51
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
Would have been running this weekend but the new turbo was not the one I ordered so it didn't fit (smaller, everything was 1/2" off). Here it is mocked up though...
Things will get changed a little (like that radiator hose) and bead rolled sheet metal will line the engine bay but she's getting there (after MONTHS of issues with parts suppliers
)...
Things will get changed a little (like that radiator hose) and bead rolled sheet metal will line the engine bay but she's getting there (after MONTHS of issues with parts suppliers
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After arguing witht the turbo company via e-mail yesterday that the AR (whatever you call it, back side down pipe attaches to) was NOT the same size as my original (that was bad out of the box but we mocked everything up with it) they finally said just bring it down.
It wasn't the same. Ten minutes later that had a new one for me and we got it all bolted up today
. Ran out of time at the shop but Saturday we'll re-do the radiator hose, clamp it all up, attach the exhaust, run the vacuum lines and catch can lines, fix a throttle cable issue, download the tune and fire her up!
It wasn't the same. Ten minutes later that had a new one for me and we got it all bolted up today
. Ran out of time at the shop but Saturday we'll re-do the radiator hose, clamp it all up, attach the exhaust, run the vacuum lines and catch can lines, fix a throttle cable issue, download the tune and fire her up! 
^^I'm going to go back and try to make a parts list for everyone. They were just e-bay motor mounts and they sit high which is good because I just used a truck A/C and H3 pan and didn't have to notch anything and it all clears.
Was able to use a couple mounting holes and drill a couple but ended up sitting high on the frame so bent the top of the tabs down and welded the whole mount to the frame...
Here's the thread (should be pics in there actually of the motor mounts)...
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/thr...e-mods.398984/
Also here's the modded hood...
Was able to use a couple mounting holes and drill a couple but ended up sitting high on the frame so bent the top of the tabs down and welded the whole mount to the frame...
Here's the thread (should be pics in there actually of the motor mounts)...
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/thr...e-mods.398984/
Also here's the modded hood...
My fbody oil pan with a 1 inch set back plate is still touching the engine cradle on the corners of the pan. Little maneuvering and it will fit better. I'd suggest getting one of the holley or autokraft pans.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
Anyone used the Holley manifolds for a turbo build in a G-body?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers...rentProductId=
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers...rentProductId=
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
From what I've read, the truck manifolds won't clear because the drivers side truck manifold that gets mounted forward facing on the passenger side has a bit of a kick out on it that hits the frame.
These Holley manifolds seem to be more inline, was thinking they would work nicely..
I'll have my motor mocked up next week, so I'll figure it out then I guess.
These Holley manifolds seem to be more inline, was thinking they would work nicely..
I'll have my motor mocked up next week, so I'll figure it out then I guess.