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That should rule out anything being different about your car. I’d take a shot with the Anchor brand 2292 mounts just to eliminate that variable being what’s causing the issue...good thing is they are dirt cheap. When you get them, Bolt them to the crossmember first and try to then lower the engine down on to them.
Installed the Anchor 2292 mounts and when tightening them pushed them up as much as possible. When installing the motor it was very tight but after standing on top of the motor (dummy motor, so it was light) it popped in! Thank you for your help Toddoky!
I'm not sure why the Autozone mounts did not fit, I'll do some dimensional inspection on it this weekend to see if I find anything and I'll post my findings.
I'm happy that the mounts work ( I was really attracted to their interlocking design) but I want to replace the rubber inserts in the clamshell mounts with some poly units, do you have a brand that you know works?
Also, do you know what the correct engine angle is for a G body?
Yeah, I would definitely switch to poly inserts since the rubber inserts will not tolerate increased torque/HP levels very without experiencing an early death. I was able to install a set of the Prothane inserts in the Anchor mount cages during the development of the Hooker Blackheart G-body swap system, but I don't know if you'll have the same successful experience.Your frame could be experiencing a bit of collapse in the engine crossmember, which is fairly common and would cause the mounts/holes to become closer together and create the tightness you are experiencing. The aftermarket poly inserts are known to cause users installation grief and you only have to go through some 4th-gen F-body poly motor mount threads on this site to see exactly how problematic they can be. We/Holley developed our own poly inserts for both the original clamshell mounts (like the ones you are using) and for the 4th-gen F-body application to correct this issue. I would recommend using the Holley inserts, but they are unfortunately out of stock at the moment.
Also, do you know what angle the crankshaft is in a G body?
The nominal crank inclination angle in a G-Body is 3 degrees relative to the bottom of the frame rail if I recall correctly. If you are not using the Hooker Blackheart G-Body trans crossmember, you’ll want to check your U-joint operating angles while installing your transmission/crossmember/driveshaft and adjust the trans mount height to optimize those angles.
Last edited by user 4737373; May 10, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
I just finished this 86 Cutlass. It's a nice driving car but I decided I want a truck so it's up for sale. Most of what I used for the swap is in the ad. . 1986 Cutlass LS swap
I'm currently doing a swap into a 1980 Cutlass Cruiser (wagon). Stock 4.8L with a 76mm on no more than 10psi until I upgrade engine,93 pump gas and Meth injection( No E available where I live. Track only car pretty much. I'm excited to start as build thread but haven't touched it yet. Just been collecting parts.
About to start a LY6 with a LSA supercharger swap in my 87 Grand National. The block did not come with any accessories so i have to buy a kit or piece it together, what would be the best FEAD setup to run and use a low mount ac compressor ?
Anyone see this? The guy grafted a Bravada front frame to a G body to give it AWD. Tons of hand made carbon fiber parts like hood, trunk lid, interior. It's amazingly clean.
In the process of swapping a 408 with twins into a 78 Malibu. I'm going to use the CX racing manifolds but i'm curious if anyone has suggestions on solid motors mounts. Im planning on using the hooker 12643HKR engine mounts with a set of solid frame pads from speedway motors 54562630. If anyone has other suggestions on solid motor mounts used with the hooker engine mounts im all ears!
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