1998 LS1 not starting ?
I really think you missed a power or ground hook up. the 3 connectors just off the pcm connectors have a ground there as well as the power inputs. then you also have the grounds at the drivers side head. which any could break off and hide in the harness.
let me know if you need some schematics I can send them your way
what scan tool are you using? anycodes after a 15 second crank
let me know if you need some schematics I can send them your way
what scan tool are you using? anycodes after a 15 second crank
Originally Posted by skinnies
A little more information on this swap since I saw the car the other day and went over the wiring to help double check everything.
Coil packs have power, pcm has power, injectors have power, sensors have power. Checked continuity from the pcm to the CPS, coil packs, etc, checked all grounds and everything has a good connection. Car has no signal(purple wire on coil packs and ground wires on injectors). We did try a different CPS that we know was from a good working car and am working on getting a cam position sensor. If Henry can come up with the money for a ALDL connector it wouldn't take anytime at all to wire it up and would probably make troubleshooting this issue a lot easier.
Coil packs have power, pcm has power, injectors have power, sensors have power. Checked continuity from the pcm to the CPS, coil packs, etc, checked all grounds and everything has a good connection. Car has no signal(purple wire on coil packs and ground wires on injectors). We did try a different CPS that we know was from a good working car and am working on getting a cam position sensor. If Henry can come up with the money for a ALDL connector it wouldn't take anytime at all to wire it up and would probably make troubleshooting this issue a lot easier.
I can swing by with the laptop tomorrow after 5. I want to see this thing running.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 301
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From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by 91_bowtie
the one I gave you didn't work? I have another that is from a LS1 if you need it.
I can swing by with the laptop tomorrow after 5. I want to see this thing running.
I can swing by with the laptop tomorrow after 5. I want to see this thing running.
Originally Posted by 89 formula350
I really think you missed a power or ground hook up. the 3 connectors just off the pcm connectors have a ground there as well as the power inputs. then you also have the grounds at the drivers side head. which any could break off and hide in the harness.
let me know if you need some schematics I can send them your way
what scan tool are you using? anycodes after a 15 second crank
let me know if you need some schematics I can send them your way
what scan tool are you using? anycodes after a 15 second crank
Originally Posted by 91_bowtie
the one I gave you didn't work? I have another that is from a LS1 if you need it.
I can swing by with the laptop tomorrow after 5. I want to see this thing running.
I can swing by with the laptop tomorrow after 5. I want to see this thing running.
Originally Posted by KC Henry
Wow , so many people helping.... I feel special. I truly appreciate everyones help with this !
Originally Posted by skinnies
I haven't been back out there since last Friday, not sure if he has tried that new cam position sensor yet or not. Give me a buzz tomorrow I may ride out with ya if Mark can be there.
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: windsor ca
ls1 in a 88 toyota 4runner i just got done installing a ls1 in my runner and i am having the same problem. no spark. checked all the grrounds and pcm powers all check out . putting a scan tool on tomarrow
Has anyone checked for integrity of the crank and cam sensor wires themselves? Do they pass a continuity test? They insulation may look good, but may have a break in the wire itself. The harness came out of a donor car, could something have happened during removal?
Originally Posted by Rhino
Has anyone checked for integrity of the crank and cam sensor wires themselves? Do they pass a continuity test? They insulation may look good, but may have a break in the wire itself. The harness came out of a donor car, could something have happened during removal?
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: tx
That just doesn't make sense
Originally Posted by 89 formula350
I really think you missed a power or ground hook up. the 3 connectors just off the pcm connectors have a ground there as well as the power inputs.
BTW, while I was checking mine I came across a pink wire that I didn't connect at C105.
Go over everything if you already haven't, then go over it again.Its easy to miss something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...chmentid=73262
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Could'nt just be your live to pcm is taken from an ignition switch take off which is initially live but looses power when starter is cranking.I had this problem once and as there was power to pcm with ign on but not when cranking it took awhile to figure.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: tx
Mine is giving me problems too!!! 'Same' symptoms as KC Henry's but 'different'...starting it in a new thread so I don't hijack yours.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/757608-another-98-won-t-start-need-quick-advice.html
Chrisp
Ok more info...
Using a noid light on the injector plug, we have nothing. Key on, nothing, and cranking nothing. This makes me think it's a ground more than anything.
Also we can use the scanner(forgot which one) to see it has no rpm signal, but when we tried to hook up efi live to it via a friends laptop/cable we couldn't get it to scan at all.
Using a noid light on the injector plug, we have nothing. Key on, nothing, and cranking nothing. This makes me think it's a ground more than anything.
Also we can use the scanner(forgot which one) to see it has no rpm signal, but when we tried to hook up efi live to it via a friends laptop/cable we couldn't get it to scan at all.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I went to a local car show this weekend ( Belton Cruise for those local to KC ) and spoke to some LS1 swap owners.
One guy in particular that has a LS1 Nova and a something like a 1935 or so Chevy Rusty Radrod finished LS1 said most common problem he had was a bad ground.
He said nearly all the grounds must go to the back of the Head and that none of the grounds should ever go to a Fender or any body sheet metal.
He also suggested putting in a new battery just incase there is a slight chance that since the car has sat for 2 years and the battery that is in the car simply doesnt have the power to run all the new Electronics required now. ( Now that I think about it... I think the battery in it, is one of those big Yellow "Maxx " Walmart brands that has FREE Replacement with the Receipt that is in the side pocket of the battery. )
Aside from that I dont have any other new ideas from anyone I have run into or talked to yet.
One guy in particular that has a LS1 Nova and a something like a 1935 or so Chevy Rusty Radrod finished LS1 said most common problem he had was a bad ground.
He said nearly all the grounds must go to the back of the Head and that none of the grounds should ever go to a Fender or any body sheet metal.
He also suggested putting in a new battery just incase there is a slight chance that since the car has sat for 2 years and the battery that is in the car simply doesnt have the power to run all the new Electronics required now. ( Now that I think about it... I think the battery in it, is one of those big Yellow "Maxx " Walmart brands that has FREE Replacement with the Receipt that is in the side pocket of the battery. )
Aside from that I dont have any other new ideas from anyone I have run into or talked to yet.
Even though it still hasn't fired.. it sounds as though you're at least making progress.
Don't get too discouraged. Just think of how nice it'll be when it's finished and how much wiser you'll be having gone through it!
Don't get too discouraged. Just think of how nice it'll be when it's finished and how much wiser you'll be having gone through it!
Originally Posted by KC Henry
I went to a local car show this weekend ( Belton Cruise for those local to KC ) and spoke to some LS1 swap owners.
One guy in particular that has a LS1 Nova and a something like a 1935 or so Chevy Rusty Radrod finished LS1 said most common problem he had was a bad ground.
He said nearly all the grounds must go to the back of the Head and that none of the grounds should ever go to a Fender or any body sheet metal.
He also suggested putting in a new battery just incase there is a slight chance that since the car has sat for 2 years and the battery that is in the car simply doesnt have the power to run all the new Electronics required now. ( Now that I think about it... I think the battery in it, is one of those big Yellow "Maxx " Walmart brands that has FREE Replacement with the Receipt that is in the side pocket of the battery. )
Aside from that I dont have any other new ideas from anyone I have run into or talked to yet.
One guy in particular that has a LS1 Nova and a something like a 1935 or so Chevy Rusty Radrod finished LS1 said most common problem he had was a bad ground.
He said nearly all the grounds must go to the back of the Head and that none of the grounds should ever go to a Fender or any body sheet metal.
He also suggested putting in a new battery just incase there is a slight chance that since the car has sat for 2 years and the battery that is in the car simply doesnt have the power to run all the new Electronics required now. ( Now that I think about it... I think the battery in it, is one of those big Yellow "Maxx " Walmart brands that has FREE Replacement with the Receipt that is in the side pocket of the battery. )
Aside from that I dont have any other new ideas from anyone I have run into or talked to yet.
I plugged the cable into a couple cars on saturday, and it lit up and cycled just like it should. If it still won't fire after he reruns the grounds to the motor, it has a cut wire somewhere. You should be driving it soon. Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by Rhino
Even though it still hasn't fired.. it sounds as though you're at least making progress.
Don't get too discouraged. Just think of how nice it'll be when it's finished and how much wiser you'll be having gone through it!
Don't get too discouraged. Just think of how nice it'll be when it's finished and how much wiser you'll be having gone through it!
Originally Posted by 91_bowtie
I plugged the cable into a couple cars on saturday, and it lit up and cycled just like it should. If it still won't fire after he reruns the grounds to the motor, it has a cut wire somewhere. You should be driving it soon.Again I cant thank you guys enough who have halped/are helping , it really means alot to a broke guy like me !
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Chrisp3 sent me an E-mail and I thought I might as well pass on the idea he had on his LS1 swap.... not sure if it would apply to my swap but every lil idea helps !
Originally Posted by Chrisp3
Using an ohm meter, I just found that I am only getting 5V at the switched lead that goes to my relays!!!
The hot lead going to the relays is good at 11V. And the switched lead looks good (11.5V)when just turning the key to the on position, but when I turn the key to run(crank) the voltage drops down to 5V at the relays, and there is nothing at the pink wire that goes to the coils.
I had not checked voltage while cranking before!!!
Hence, I need to find a better switched lead on the car.
this is a very common problem, it's nothing new.
The hot lead going to the relays is good at 11V. And the switched lead looks good (11.5V)when just turning the key to the on position, but when I turn the key to run(crank) the voltage drops down to 5V at the relays, and there is nothing at the pink wire that goes to the coils.
I had not checked voltage while cranking before!!!
Hence, I need to find a better switched lead on the car.
this is a very common problem, it's nothing new.