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Just using WP and Alt how to route belt?

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Old 10-28-2007, 06:43 AM
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Default Just using WP and Alt how to route belt?

I have been searching

I only plan on using the alternator and water pump on my engine. I understand that i only need to run the fbody alternatet and backet and a tensioner in place of the power stering pump? Does anyone know the p/n for this tensioner?
Old 10-28-2007, 06:47 AM
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http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/Enginein.jpg

found this pic, is that the factory pulley? Is it a tensioner or idler puller?
Old 10-28-2007, 07:45 AM
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If you want to do it the way you said originally, "a tensioner in place of the power stering pump", then you'd want this:

It's a kit I bought from member "Smokinhawk". It places the alternator on the passenger side head and the tensioner where the alternator went. TONS more room than trying to place the alternator near the PS pump.


Best part is, the kit was $65!
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:13 AM
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No problems with belt clearence? It looks like there would be some close tollerances with the crank and water pump going all the way to that tensioner. Does that kit include the belt and tensioner? And what kind of bracket do you use to mount the alternater to the head?
Old 10-28-2007, 08:57 AM
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this is the best routing i've seen becuase it puts the alt down low and puts more belt surface on the w/p, providing more clearance between it and the crank pulley.



Old 10-28-2007, 10:06 AM
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QSPres where did the setup come from originally? it lloks like it would work great to keep clearance from the sterring box on many GM cars
Old 10-28-2007, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
No problems with belt clearence? It looks like there would be some close tollerances with the crank and water pump going all the way to that tensioner. Does that kit include the belt and tensioner? And what kind of bracket do you use to mount the alternater to the head?

Don't know what belt to use yet. Smokinhawk runs one on his car, but the iron block cars like mine are a little different than the aluminum block cars as far as mounting goes, so the belts may be different. I haven't gotten to the belt size yet.

The tensioner is the factory tensioner for the F-body. You just swap the pulley from the original alternator bracket to the tensioner mount.

The alternator bolts to the original tensioner mount on the water pump and Smokinhawk provides a bracket that goes from the back of the cylinder head to the alternator. USE A TRUCK ALTERNATOR and you'll have enough clearance between it and the valve cover. Its a simple design, but it looks like it works well.

Some have said that the bracket is too flimsy and won't hold up well, but I can't move it once its bolted down and I tried pretty hard. I'm 5'7" and 235lbs., ex-national powerlifting champion.
Old 10-28-2007, 10:56 AM
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Pray hard, that's a nice setup, but on GM A-bodies, the power steering box is right where the alternator is..
Old 10-28-2007, 11:03 AM
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Thats a huge pic. Is there any benifit to going to a carbed setup? I see it on yours. Also how is that run? It has 2 tensioners?
Old 10-28-2007, 12:20 PM
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Other than saving money, there is no benefit to a carb..
Old 10-28-2007, 04:43 PM
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Just put all my EFI stuff on Ebay. All because of one thing. The street scoop. That probably the only thing that would make a 68 firebird cooler and i can do it with a carbed ls1. Asside from the fact it'll save me the fuel and harness headaches. Any idea what ill get for the intake, harness, computer, tb, injectors, rails, oh and my ac compressor/bracket? Its all listed at like 20-40 on ebay if anyone needs it.
Old 10-28-2007, 06:27 PM
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Shoulda listed it here first... I need some of that stuff...
Old 10-28-2007, 07:48 PM
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http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZshawnmacananny

I just won an ebay auction for a Z06 MAF too if you're interested in that $45 shipped. I'll just have him ship it to you i wont be making money on it.

I'm excited about running carbed. Street scoop sticking out of the hood and all. Then i can run my flame thrower side pipes still!



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