LSX oil pans
#264
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ive followed this thread (and others) and found no answers so here are some direct questions:
LS1 fitted into a Jeep Wrangler. we are in Australia (so we are talking Holden exclusively). we mated a 2004 Holden Monaro VY 5.7L LS1 into the Jeep. to clear the front diff we used a Holden Commodore VE 6.0L oil pan (2006 or better) including the pickup tube etc. it all fits nicely but we have noisy lifters ONLY after warmup. the oil pan part number we used is 12591319 (ive not seen this number listed anywhere here or anywhere else for that matter). my quess is the pickup tube o-ring is damaged letting air into the system plus lowering the oil pressure up top. spec is something like 20 psi but im thinking it should be closer to 55psi. can anyone confirm this? lifter noise is unnoticeable until only AFTER full warmup (so not lifters themselves). guess what im asking is: 1) what is the normal oil pressure (i think i got bad info) and im guessing it should be closer to 55psi). 2) how many quarts of oil fits in this pan? im told 8.5 roughly. 3) do i need to shave the 5.7L Monaro dipstick and by how much (70mm?)? 4) MOST IMPORTANTLY - what part number oil pickup tube O-Ring should i have to mate this 6.0L pickup to the 5.7L oil pump? is there any difference in oil pumps as far as the o-ring goes? it appears the stock Monaro (GTO) pickup has a groove whereas this 6.0L pickup has none (where it fits into the pump). should we go brown, blue or green? part numbers would be appreciated. cheers
LS1 fitted into a Jeep Wrangler. we are in Australia (so we are talking Holden exclusively). we mated a 2004 Holden Monaro VY 5.7L LS1 into the Jeep. to clear the front diff we used a Holden Commodore VE 6.0L oil pan (2006 or better) including the pickup tube etc. it all fits nicely but we have noisy lifters ONLY after warmup. the oil pan part number we used is 12591319 (ive not seen this number listed anywhere here or anywhere else for that matter). my quess is the pickup tube o-ring is damaged letting air into the system plus lowering the oil pressure up top. spec is something like 20 psi but im thinking it should be closer to 55psi. can anyone confirm this? lifter noise is unnoticeable until only AFTER full warmup (so not lifters themselves). guess what im asking is: 1) what is the normal oil pressure (i think i got bad info) and im guessing it should be closer to 55psi). 2) how many quarts of oil fits in this pan? im told 8.5 roughly. 3) do i need to shave the 5.7L Monaro dipstick and by how much (70mm?)? 4) MOST IMPORTANTLY - what part number oil pickup tube O-Ring should i have to mate this 6.0L pickup to the 5.7L oil pump? is there any difference in oil pumps as far as the o-ring goes? it appears the stock Monaro (GTO) pickup has a groove whereas this 6.0L pickup has none (where it fits into the pump). should we go brown, blue or green? part numbers would be appreciated. cheers
#265
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ive followed this thread (and others) and found no answers so here are some direct questions:
LS1 fitted into a Jeep Wrangler. we are in Australia (so we are talking Holden exclusively). we mated a 2004 Holden Monaro VY 5.7L LS1 into the Jeep. to clear the front diff we used a Holden Commodore VE 6.0L oil pan (2006 or better) including the pickup tube etc. it all fits nicely but we have noisy lifters ONLY after warmup. the oil pan part number we used is 12591319 (ive not seen this number listed anywhere here or anywhere else for that matter). my quess is the pickup tube o-ring is damaged letting air into the system plus lowering the oil pressure up top. spec is something like 20 psi but im thinking it should be closer to 55psi. can anyone confirm this? lifter noise is unnoticeable until only AFTER full warmup (so not lifters themselves). guess what im asking is: 1) what is the normal oil pressure (i think i got bad info) and im guessing it should be closer to 55psi). 2) how many quarts of oil fits in this pan? im told 8.5 roughly. 3) do i need to shave the 5.7L Monaro dipstick and by how much (70mm?)? 4) MOST IMPORTANTLY - what part number oil pickup tube O-Ring should i have to mate this 6.0L pickup to the 5.7L oil pump? is there any difference in oil pumps as far as the o-ring goes? it appears the stock Monaro (GTO) pickup has a groove whereas this 6.0L pickup has none (where it fits into the pump). should we go brown, blue or green? part numbers would be appreciated. cheers
LS1 fitted into a Jeep Wrangler. we are in Australia (so we are talking Holden exclusively). we mated a 2004 Holden Monaro VY 5.7L LS1 into the Jeep. to clear the front diff we used a Holden Commodore VE 6.0L oil pan (2006 or better) including the pickup tube etc. it all fits nicely but we have noisy lifters ONLY after warmup. the oil pan part number we used is 12591319 (ive not seen this number listed anywhere here or anywhere else for that matter). my quess is the pickup tube o-ring is damaged letting air into the system plus lowering the oil pressure up top. spec is something like 20 psi but im thinking it should be closer to 55psi. can anyone confirm this? lifter noise is unnoticeable until only AFTER full warmup (so not lifters themselves). guess what im asking is: 1) what is the normal oil pressure (i think i got bad info) and im guessing it should be closer to 55psi). 2) how many quarts of oil fits in this pan? im told 8.5 roughly. 3) do i need to shave the 5.7L Monaro dipstick and by how much (70mm?)? 4) MOST IMPORTANTLY - what part number oil pickup tube O-Ring should i have to mate this 6.0L pickup to the 5.7L oil pump? is there any difference in oil pumps as far as the o-ring goes? it appears the stock Monaro (GTO) pickup has a groove whereas this 6.0L pickup has none (where it fits into the pump). should we go brown, blue or green? part numbers would be appreciated. cheers
50psi+ at 2000rpm hot.
8.5L in the pan. Cold oil level is typically the bottom of the windage tray. The oil level is not substantially different from Monaro/GTO to VE/G8 so check based on where you dipstick tube enters the pan/block in relation to the pan rail.
Use the oring that Holden lists for the VE pump/pick up, lubricate the oring and ensure that the pick up flange pulls up square.
If its a 2004 plant its 6 years old so some lifter noise wouldnt be unusual.
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#266
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rsz288
thanks for that info - seems to confirm my suspicion that it is low oil pressure/air in the oil and not the lifters. oil pressure is 18-25psi cold at idle but slowly drops down to about 7-8psi at a hot idle and hits 31psi at 2000rpm hot. we initially ran 9L of Mobil 1 5W-30 then went to 8L of Nulon 15W-40 which nearly doubled oil pressure and helped quiet down most of the lifters. we are in a warm climate so went to the heavier oil thinking the Mob 1 was just too thin. the motor has only 30,000 miles (48KM) on it but there are a few lifters on the left bank that start rattling after full warmup and are much noisier than acceptable. i feel the o-ring on the pickup is damaged so looks like a trip to the dealer is in order. thanks again for the input
15-20psi hot idle 575rpm with oil at 100C is not uncommon with stock pump with 5W30. What oil are you using?
50psi+ at 2000rpm hot.
8.5L in the pan. Cold oil level is typically the bottom of the windage tray. The oil level is not substantially different from Monaro/GTO to VE/G8 so check based on where you dipstick tube enters the pan/block in relation to the pan rail.
Use the oring that Holden lists for the VE pump/pick up, lubricate the oring and ensure that the pick up flange pulls up square.
If its a 2004 plant its 6 years old so some lifter noise wouldnt be unusual.
50psi+ at 2000rpm hot.
8.5L in the pan. Cold oil level is typically the bottom of the windage tray. The oil level is not substantially different from Monaro/GTO to VE/G8 so check based on where you dipstick tube enters the pan/block in relation to the pan rail.
Use the oring that Holden lists for the VE pump/pick up, lubricate the oring and ensure that the pick up flange pulls up square.
If its a 2004 plant its 6 years old so some lifter noise wouldnt be unusual.
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#267
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rsz288
thanks for that info - seems to confirm my suspicion that it is low oil pressure/air in the oil and not the lifters. oil pressure is 18-25psi cold at idle but slowly drops down to about 7-8psi at a hot idle and hits 31psi at 2000rpm hot. we initially ran 9L of Mobil 1 5W-30 then went to 8L of Nulon 15W-40 which nearly doubled oil pressure and helped quiet down most of the lifters. we are in a warm climate so went to the heavier oil thinking the Mob 1 was just too thin. the motor has only 30,000 miles (48KM) on it but there are a few lifters on the left bank that start rattling after full warmup and are much noisier than acceptable. i feel the o-ring on the pickup is damaged so looks like a trip to the dealer is in order. thanks again for the input![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
thanks for that info - seems to confirm my suspicion that it is low oil pressure/air in the oil and not the lifters. oil pressure is 18-25psi cold at idle but slowly drops down to about 7-8psi at a hot idle and hits 31psi at 2000rpm hot. we initially ran 9L of Mobil 1 5W-30 then went to 8L of Nulon 15W-40 which nearly doubled oil pressure and helped quiet down most of the lifters. we are in a warm climate so went to the heavier oil thinking the Mob 1 was just too thin. the motor has only 30,000 miles (48KM) on it but there are a few lifters on the left bank that start rattling after full warmup and are much noisier than acceptable. i feel the o-ring on the pickup is damaged so looks like a trip to the dealer is in order. thanks again for the input
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If the tappet noise got better with the thicker oil this is usually a sign that the lifters leak down rates are too high. Which is worn lifters or the air as you point out.
If you can get a scanner on like an EFILive V2 unit and log oil pressure you may see hickups on the trace caused by air that dont show up on a regular gauge. The oil pressure pulses anyway based on crank rotation and lifter position, but with air it is likely to pulse more vigourously.
Also the later model VE/G8 pans have an AFM/DOD pressure regulator valve and this if you have one could be the cause of issues if it is cracking early. It will generally limit to 55psi max.
But still worthwhile checking the oring!
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#268
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it will soon go onto the rollers with efi live monitoring everything (we need to edit a bunch of stuff yet and bring the torque curve down for the Jeep application). i can actually see fluctuations on the gauge (autometer) but we all know that is not an accurate test. will watch the oil psi closely on the software edit when its on the dyno but before we go there i want to make sure we have acceptable oil psi which we obviously dont. will swap out the o-ring (an easy job) first. the pan does not have the DOD valve so no problem there but it was a used unit and we didnt replace the o-ring which is why im leaning heavily on a failure there. who knows if it was worn to begin with or damaged during the swap so a worthwhile starting point. as for lifters bleeding down when hot i would think i would hear it in both banks and not just a few on one side - it appears the left bank is at the end of the oiling system within the block? would explain why that side only is suffering if its a matter of air in the system. hopefully its not lifters but im feeling confident about an o-ring fix at this point. pray for me lol. thanks again
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#269
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well, ive replaced the o-ring and now have a solid 45psi oil pressure reading at idle all the way to warm up. also getting 55psi at 2000rpm hot. the lifter noise is completely gone. also went to Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 with 8.75L plus a new filter. so appears all fixed! one thing i noticed when changing out the o-ring is that the VE 6.0L Commodore sump gasket was contacting the windage tray at the oil filter ports pulling it down so i ground the windage tray down by 6mm to allow the gasket to fully seat. dunno if it was seated before but thought it couldnt hurt. anyways, i reckon the new superseded o-ring was the cure! happy days are here again!
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#270
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PS - the GM pickup pickup tube o-ring part number for fitting this VE Commodore 6.0L oil pan (which we think is an L98 pan pn 12591319) to this Holden Monaro '04 VY 5.7L engine is 12557752 and is blue and larger in cross sectional diameter than the the original part (was superseded). just some fyi
#272
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I think the GM part# for the f-Body oil pan has changed to 1262877, can anyone confirm this? I found this on Pace parts website. Also anyone know of a better deal on this pan?
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...l=&strCompare=
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...l=&strCompare=
#273
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I'm putting a lq9 in my 66 Beaumont and it has external cooler lines on the plate above the filter, my question is, does anyone know the part # for a camaro/firebird style plate? Can you drill and tap to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge? Thanks for any help
#274
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If you want to delete the oil cooler, you need a block off plate that make a U, for by-pass. Whit no hole on it, gm#12577903. Whit a hole on it for a sender gm#12551595, but 3X price. You can drill and tape 1/8 npt in this block and screw your sender.
you can see both on this link.
http://www.ls1fc.com/techinfo/pans.htm
you can see both on this link.
http://www.ls1fc.com/techinfo/pans.htm
#278
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I went out and looked at my '69 and the stock GM stamped-steel oil pan on my soon to be removed GEN I 350 is already about an inch lower than the cross member. I measured the pan and it is right at 8 inches deep at the drain plug. It would seem to me then that the pan in the GMPP conversion kit (p/n 19212593), which people say is the Hummer H3 pan, should work as it is only 7.5 inches deep per the oil pan sticky.
My car rides at stock height (i.e., it's not lowered) and I have never hit the pan on anything. It doesn't have a scratch on it.
My car rides at stock height (i.e., it's not lowered) and I have never hit the pan on anything. It doesn't have a scratch on it.
#279
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LS motor will be 2 inch lower than a standard small block like a 350. The motor mount are 2 inch higher. If your pan was 8 inch, you will need a 6in pan for have the same ground clearance.
#280
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Has anyone confirmed the LH8 pan is too low for the A body cars? I have a 69 Chevelle that I'm putting a 5.3 in. I'm really thinking of pulling the trigger on buying the new LHX pan, but @ ~$400.00 bucks, I want to make sure the LH8 definitely doesn't work before spending this kind of money.. The LH8 is ~ $120.00 @ GMPD.
thx
thx