LSX oil pans
#541
The F-body pan actually doesn't hang that far below the subframe (1/2"- 1" depending on the mounts used)to be of concern, unless you're running an insanely dropped front suspension, which is going to produce problems for header clearance as well. It also allows you to get the engine lower in the front than almost any other pan without notching the crossmember,which is needed to achieve a usable engine/transmission inclination angle(not the 5 degrees your seeing some guys put these cars together with) without having to do any tunnel sheet metal work
In order to use it however, you will have to notch it in most cases; if your engine is pushed right up against the firewall and you have the longer pitman arm and idler arm from an early car, you may acheive clearance with the steering components without having to notch the pan.
The Holley pan will clear the steering components without notching and has the same sump ground clearance as the F-body pan, but requires notching the crossmember to acheive the same ingine/trans inclination angle as is possible with the F-body pan because it is about 1" taller than the F-Body pan at its front edge. If you are building a stroker engine, the Holley pan is well suited for it and worth the effort required to notch out the crossmember.
In order to use it however, you will have to notch it in most cases; if your engine is pushed right up against the firewall and you have the longer pitman arm and idler arm from an early car, you may acheive clearance with the steering components without having to notch the pan.
The Holley pan will clear the steering components without notching and has the same sump ground clearance as the F-body pan, but requires notching the crossmember to acheive the same ingine/trans inclination angle as is possible with the F-body pan because it is about 1" taller than the F-Body pan at its front edge. If you are building a stroker engine, the Holley pan is well suited for it and worth the effort required to notch out the crossmember.
#542
I went back through your build thread and realized I could give you a more specific assesment based on the images you posted of your set-up.
The close distance between your firewall and engine and the fact that you were able to install the low-mount F-body alternator without notching the crossmember tells me your engine is too high to ultimately end up with a 3 degree engine inclination angle without cutting into your tunnel sheet metal
In order for you to acheive an OE-like 3 degrees of engine inclination angle and not have to perform any clearancing of your tunnel sheet metal to clear your T56 (other than cutting the shifter hole), the bottom front edge of your F-body oil pan will need to be no further than 3/4" from your crossmember and you'll need a minimum of 1" space between the firewall and passenger side cylinder head and no more than 1/4" of space between the top of your T56 shifter cover plate and the tunnel sheet metal. You cannot get your engine this low using the stock frame stands and common swap plates, or the rear of your trans this high with most of the crossmembers without shimming between the trans and the mounting pad, so you'll have to get creative and make your own engine mounts and trans mount shim...for the time being anyway. This also should prevent you from having to shim your rear end, as you are mimicking the engine inclination angle originally designed into the car by GM far more closely than those out there running 5 degrees of engine inclination just so they can low-mount the alternators or a particular oil pan.
The trade-off to getting the great U-joint angles that this provides is the fact that you'll need to notch your crossmember for the alternator to clear, or relocate in to an upper-mount position with available brackets, such as the Holley piece. You'll also need to use a notched F-body oil pan or aftermarket steel pan to clear the steering center link.
A defined engine inclination angle and the properly engineered U-joint angles that result from it should dictate the positioning of your engine/transmission in my opinion, not the desire to use any one particular component in your swap...get the engine positioned correctly from a performance/handling perspective and then figure out what you need to do to get your accessories attached.
The availability of parts for this swap is far better today than it was even five years ago, so less compromises are required to perform this swap, which allows you to end up with a better engineered completed vehicle.
This information is only good when using stock height body mounts on the subframe; half-height body mounts with create the need to perform tunnel sheet metal clearance work.
The close distance between your firewall and engine and the fact that you were able to install the low-mount F-body alternator without notching the crossmember tells me your engine is too high to ultimately end up with a 3 degree engine inclination angle without cutting into your tunnel sheet metal
In order for you to acheive an OE-like 3 degrees of engine inclination angle and not have to perform any clearancing of your tunnel sheet metal to clear your T56 (other than cutting the shifter hole), the bottom front edge of your F-body oil pan will need to be no further than 3/4" from your crossmember and you'll need a minimum of 1" space between the firewall and passenger side cylinder head and no more than 1/4" of space between the top of your T56 shifter cover plate and the tunnel sheet metal. You cannot get your engine this low using the stock frame stands and common swap plates, or the rear of your trans this high with most of the crossmembers without shimming between the trans and the mounting pad, so you'll have to get creative and make your own engine mounts and trans mount shim...for the time being anyway. This also should prevent you from having to shim your rear end, as you are mimicking the engine inclination angle originally designed into the car by GM far more closely than those out there running 5 degrees of engine inclination just so they can low-mount the alternators or a particular oil pan.
The trade-off to getting the great U-joint angles that this provides is the fact that you'll need to notch your crossmember for the alternator to clear, or relocate in to an upper-mount position with available brackets, such as the Holley piece. You'll also need to use a notched F-body oil pan or aftermarket steel pan to clear the steering center link.
A defined engine inclination angle and the properly engineered U-joint angles that result from it should dictate the positioning of your engine/transmission in my opinion, not the desire to use any one particular component in your swap...get the engine positioned correctly from a performance/handling perspective and then figure out what you need to do to get your accessories attached.
The availability of parts for this swap is far better today than it was even five years ago, so less compromises are required to perform this swap, which allows you to end up with a better engineered completed vehicle.
This information is only good when using stock height body mounts on the subframe; half-height body mounts with create the need to perform tunnel sheet metal clearance work.
Last edited by user 4737373; 05-03-2013 at 09:56 AM. Reason: Grammatical error
#543
I have read a lot of the pages but still want to verify. I am currently running the GM musclecar pan in my 69 chevelle. It fits perfect and has done well. The only issue is it hangs way too low the cross member. My car is now starting to get a pretty good size wheelie and know it is only a matter of time before I hit it. I am going to be about 900hp to the wheels and the car will wheelie pretty good. My car has no power steering or ac. Which pan will work the best with NO modifications and the oil filter NOT being relocated? I use stock frame mounts and Moroso tall engine mounts.
I was looking at the Moroso 20140, The Holly pan, and a stock F body pan.
I was looking at the Moroso 20140, The Holly pan, and a stock F body pan.
#545
So I have read countless threads and came to no real conclusion on what pan. With all the guys who have swapped an LS into a Chevelle/A-body, which is the best? I want advice from people who have done it and maybe wished went another route.
F-body
H3 pan
Canton pan
Holley pan (1st place in my mind right now)
Thanks for your help guys!!
F-body
H3 pan
Canton pan
Holley pan (1st place in my mind right now)
Thanks for your help guys!!
#547
67 A-Body (Skylark), I used the S&P modified F-body pan, was able to do drop it low enough to fit th 4l80E with only slight tapping of the trans tunnel and keep 3 degree drivel angle and the pan flush with cross member. Not sure but think S&P now cast their own pan.
So I have read countless threads and came to no real conclusion on what pan. With all the guys who have swapped an LS into a Chevelle/A-body, which is the best? I want advice from people who have done it and maybe wished went another route.
F-body
H3 pan
Canton pan
Holley pan (1st place in my mind right now)
Thanks for your help guys!!
F-body
H3 pan
Canton pan
Holley pan (1st place in my mind right now)
Thanks for your help guys!!
#548
I will have to look at S&P as well as Holley. Thanks
#553
The top picture is my old LQ4 oil pan, the bottom one is a new f body pan I got from gm parts direct, couple of things going on, looks like the LQ4 pan had a check valve is this going to be an issue if I run an oil cooler with the fbody pan? Also the threaded dowels for the oil filters are different sizes what gives?? Here's the pix...
LQ4 Oil Pan
Fbody Oil Pan
LQ4 Oil Pan
Fbody Oil Pan
#554
#555
Anyone see the revised Holley pan on display at LS Fest? Looks like nice improvements that could be construed as specifically for Chevelle swaps. They shortened the front/belly of the pan (multipurpose, get motor lower in chassis as well as more tie rod clearance). Also lengthened the sump since there was a solid 1.5-2" unused space there before, should increase oil capacity. I'm pretty psyched about it, hope to pick one up and fit it over winter during engine refresh.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
#556
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,222
Likes: 1,512
From: The City of Fountains
Anyone see the revised Holley pan on display at LS Fest? Looks like nice improvements that could be construed as specifically for Chevelle swaps. They shortened the front/belly of the pan (multipurpose, get motor lower in chassis as well as more tie rod clearance). Also lengthened the sump since there was a solid 1.5-2" unused space there before, should increase oil capacity. I'm pretty psyched about it, hope to pick one up and fit it over winter during engine refresh.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
Andrew
#558
Anyone see the revised Holley pan on display at LS Fest? Looks like nice improvements that could be construed as specifically for Chevelle swaps. They shortened the front/belly of the pan (multipurpose, get motor lower in chassis as well as more tie rod clearance). Also lengthened the sump since there was a solid 1.5-2" unused space there before, should increase oil capacity. I'm pretty psyched about it, hope to pick one up and fit it over winter during engine refresh.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
I've got a couple pictures, but can't upload them to photobucket at work to share/link here. Will try to do it this evening at home.
#559
Good info, thanks Todd. Guess I better not pedal my current pan then if I plan a stroker build, glad you mentioned that! is it "close" or simply out of the question with a 4" stroke?