LSX oil pans
OK, I admit I am being lazy not looking through all the pages. Has anyone run across a late model truck pan with 2 bosses in the front and different depths tapped out for bolts? Like they would be coming from the front of the engine parallel to the crank? No casting number on the pan but made in Mexico in 2008. Any ideas?
Personally, no I don't think it is. I think the F-body pan or Holley pan is the best option. CTSV pans makes you put the motor up too high. I fit my LS in mu Caprice with an F-body pan, no pan or frame mods. I can still fit the truck accessory drive too. I think the mount brackets I made will work on a G-body swap, and allow you to set the LS motor back 3/8" more than the SBC used to fit. PM if you want to chat.
Teching In
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FYI: Low Profile pans for the G Body Swap
Holley Pan 5.89 Inches Deep $ 299
AutoKraft Pan 5.5 Inches Deep $ 399
Moroso Pan 6 Inches Deep $ 299
I didn't spend a lot of time looking for prices yet, So far this is the best Pans I can find for my future swap in my El Camino
Holley Pan 5.89 Inches Deep $ 299
AutoKraft Pan 5.5 Inches Deep $ 399
Moroso Pan 6 Inches Deep $ 299
I didn't spend a lot of time looking for prices yet, So far this is the best Pans I can find for my future swap in my El Camino
Last edited by Rwolf15241; Feb 26, 2013 at 08:57 PM.
i'm using a GTO pan on my LS1 for my swap. i need to block off the dipstick hole on the LS1 block. any suggestions besides drilling & tapping it? i was thinking of using the f-body dipstick tube & making a "cap" for the hole.
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Teching In
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Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: B.C. Canada
The Chevrolet "Chevrolet Performance LS Muscle Car Oil Pan Kit" Used to be the truck pan. Way too deep for most applications. Don't know why they do that. The F body pan is just about the same thing but much shallower. It's the one that I used for my Corvette.
I know its been asked and I have done some searching but can't come up with a solid answer. A guy I know has a 67 Camaro and a 5.3 with 700R4 he is wanting to put in it. Which oil pan would work best and clear the stock subframe/steering components? I've read that the LH8 pan clears with the BRP mounts, also seen the F-body works with 1" set back plates....?? Can't find nothing solid on it. He's not looking to drop a grand or nothing, just something simple and works...lol. Any help will be appreciated.
Which ones? Does the Holley swap pan kit work? I did also see the MAST pan kit, but its looking to be a bit more expensive but he may not have many options.
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The F-body pan actually doesn't hang that far below the subframe (1/2"- 1" depending on the mounts used)to be of concern, unless you're running an insanely dropped front suspension, which is going to produce problems for header clearance as well. It also allows you to get the engine lower in the front than almost any other pan without notching the crossmember,which is needed to achieve a usable engine/transmission inclination angle(not the 5 degrees your seeing some guys put these cars together with) without having to do any tunnel sheet metal work
In order to use it however, you will have to notch it in most cases; if your engine is pushed right up against the firewall and you have the longer pitman arm and idler arm from an early car, you may acheive clearance with the steering components without having to notch the pan.
The Holley pan will clear the steering components without notching and has the same sump ground clearance as the F-body pan, but requires notching the crossmember to acheive the same ingine/trans inclination angle as is possible with the F-body pan because it is about 1" taller than the F-Body pan at its front edge. If you are building a stroker engine, the Holley pan is well suited for it and worth the effort required to notch out the crossmember.
In order to use it however, you will have to notch it in most cases; if your engine is pushed right up against the firewall and you have the longer pitman arm and idler arm from an early car, you may acheive clearance with the steering components without having to notch the pan.
The Holley pan will clear the steering components without notching and has the same sump ground clearance as the F-body pan, but requires notching the crossmember to acheive the same ingine/trans inclination angle as is possible with the F-body pan because it is about 1" taller than the F-Body pan at its front edge. If you are building a stroker engine, the Holley pan is well suited for it and worth the effort required to notch out the crossmember.
