Yes, the block has inserts and is strong enough to bolt headers, intake, oils pan, and other items for test fitting. You just have to be careful not to over tighten or the inserts break loose.

 

in need of of ls3 pan dimensions. there is a pic at the beginning of the thread but not dimensions.

 

I think I might have the GM CAD model of that pan at work, so if you can tell me exactly what dimensions you would like I can pull them off the model for you tomorrow.

 

Hey Toddoky,
When I put my pan on I can't push it forward enough for it to be flush with the back of the block.
Is this a problem?
Thanks, Dan.

 

Did you ever get this sorted out. I just tried mine and have the same problem

 

If you guys are putting the pans on with your engines on a stand it gives a confusing visual that both sides of the pan are not squaring up with the back of the block. This visual is present because your eyes and mind tell you that the edge of the rear engine cover is level with and on the same plane as the machined transmission mating surface, which it is not. The rear engine cover is recessed back from the transmission mating surface and you will see this once you attach the transmission to the engine.

 

Thanks !! I will have a better look when I lift the engine off the stand and try the bell housing. Appreciate the response

 

Toddoky. On the two different holley pans, do I still need to purchase your baffle kit over and above the cost of the pan, for use in a drag car?

 

That decision is entirely up to you mufflerguy and depends on how much oil control assurance you want/need in your drag car. Both the 302-1 and 302-2pans include a standard tray baffle in their packaging and also possess the ability to be upgraded with to use a drop in trap-door race baffle assembly that we sell separately for each. The 302-1 oil pan takes the 302-10 race baffle and the 302-2 pan takes the 302-11 race baffle

 

Will your baffles fit a gm pan, or just the 01 and 02 pans? Thanks for your help.

Rob

 

They were never mated to the inside of any GM pan in the CAD modeling process and no attempts to fit physical samples into them were made either, so I unfortunately can't answer that question for you either way.

 

Having looked at the 302-2 pan and tray and the fbody oil pan and tray side by side, I can't see how anything that fits in the 302-2 pan would fit in the OEM pan.

 

Fair enough. What is the difference/benefits to the two pans? If I'm gonna pop for one, I wanna pick the right one. 65 Chevy II with a TCI front subframe.

 

The answer to your question would depend on the design and/or fitment features of each that are most important to you or make your swap goals easiest to achieve. There are a few basics that I can give you that should be able to help you narrow it down...

Firstly, they both hold around 6 quarts or more of oil with the filter, so there's no advantage of one over the other in that regard.

If you want to be able to run a full-length windage tray or a crank stroke greater than the common 3.62" LS stroke, then you will have to use the original 302-1 pan; the new 302-2 requires the use of a 4th-gen F-body 3/4 length tray or requires you to cut down the windage tray from any other LS engine you may have to the same length. The 302-2 pan can also not accommodate cranks beyond the common 3.62" stroke variety.

On the other hand, if you are swapping an LS into a front-steer vehicle that is space challenged up front due to inner tie rod interference issues with the oil pan (ask the A-body guys about this one) or a rear-steer vehicle that commonly has drag link interference issues with the sump of the oil pan (problem for the 1st-gen F-body guys and 3rd-gen Nova guys) then you will probably find more value in the 302-2 pan due to its much lower front profile (You can install the 302-1 into a 1st-gen as well, but you'll need to notch the subframe crossmember if you want to achieve respectable U-joint working angles). I've personally not swapped a Chevy II yet or anything with a TCI frame so the best I can provide you with is this generalized information.

My advice to you would be to poll other users with a similar set-up to see what they may recommend. You can also pour over threads from those same types of forum users and read about oil pan fitment issues they may have had and deduce from that info which would be the better pan for you.

 

How much do you need to trim off the windage tray??

 

I don't recall the exact discrete amount, but the basic requirement is to make the windage tray the same length as that of the stock 4th-gen F-body tray.

 

Sorry if i missed this earlier but what is the ground clearance on A-body(70) with the 302-2 ?
How far below X-member does it hang or is it level?

 

This may have already been said, but I really don't want to read through 32 pages and a search didn't come up with it, so here it goes.

The Autokraft pan will not work with the BRP Hotrod setup. So far, the BRP setup has been great, but this was unexpected. The Autokraft pan hits the center drag link and would need about an additional inch of clearance. Depending on what Autokraft has to say, I might have one of their pans for sale.

As for the BRP setup with the LH8 and the 4L80E, it looks like both pans hang down about the same 3/4" past the front crossmember, since this is a stock ride height car, it's not going to be an issue, but if I do go with the ride tech, it'll also mean that I'm going with a rack and pinion, which will then allow the use of the Autokraft pan.

 

I could say at this time as we've not had that pan on an A-body to date.

 

Instructions say to take the front 1/4 off the tray. You also have to put in about a 1-inch notch in the tray in the front passenger side corner to clear the oil pickup. See my build thread for pictures, as I've just installed this pan on an LS2.