vats box question?
vats box question? this may be a no brainer but i just built my vats box and realized i didnt know where to hook it up to the pcm.....
is it the c230 blue plug pin e (pcm 55 theft deterrent fuel enable?
is it the c230 blue plug pin e (pcm 55 theft deterrent fuel enable?
tried hooking the out put to the c230 plug pin e. and it wont stay running. also my vats box is putting out a 9 volt signal? i thought this box would produce a 5 volt signal.........
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I got your PM...then found your thread. You are correct with the hook up. Goes to the fuel enable pin.
Can you post what schematic you used to build your vats box? I have a feeling, if you built it off the ones floating around, that its not right.
When I first built mine, I followed the directions/schematics to a "T" and mine wouldnt work. Then I actually LOOKED at the schematic, and figured out where the issue was. It was one wiring be out of place on the IC if I remember correctly. I would have to dig a bit to find out which one..
But post what you did anyway. Also...the boxes on ebay are cheap. Like $20 if I remember correctly. And are more compact that building your own usually. I ended up buying one. The only reason I built mine, was because I wanted it to run right then and there. So 30 minutes later i had one built...but the next day I ordered a pre-built one.
And for everyone saying just tune it out... I DID have it tuned out. Still wouldnt run. Hooked up the box, and it ran. Fast forward to a few months later...started running without the box. No one can see to give me an answer to that one.
J.
EDIT: Nevermind. Check this thread out. I totally forgot I made this thread when I built my box. Tells you how to fix your box if you went right off of those schematics. You have to use a combo of the schematics and the actual IC diagram. Its the ground wire that was messed up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...630&highlight=
Can you post what schematic you used to build your vats box? I have a feeling, if you built it off the ones floating around, that its not right.
When I first built mine, I followed the directions/schematics to a "T" and mine wouldnt work. Then I actually LOOKED at the schematic, and figured out where the issue was. It was one wiring be out of place on the IC if I remember correctly. I would have to dig a bit to find out which one..
But post what you did anyway. Also...the boxes on ebay are cheap. Like $20 if I remember correctly. And are more compact that building your own usually. I ended up buying one. The only reason I built mine, was because I wanted it to run right then and there. So 30 minutes later i had one built...but the next day I ordered a pre-built one.
And for everyone saying just tune it out... I DID have it tuned out. Still wouldnt run. Hooked up the box, and it ran. Fast forward to a few months later...started running without the box. No one can see to give me an answer to that one.
J.
EDIT: Nevermind. Check this thread out. I totally forgot I made this thread when I built my box. Tells you how to fix your box if you went right off of those schematics. You have to use a combo of the schematics and the actual IC diagram. Its the ground wire that was messed up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...630&highlight=
Last edited by ghettocruiser; Dec 9, 2007 at 06:25 PM.
but im starting to think i could have built it totally sdrawkcab! i realize now that i dont know wich way to read the box my ic came in. it has a notch in the picture indicating wich end is wich, but do you read that from the top of the ic or the bottom. i read it as looking at the top of the chip, but is that right?
Should be from the top down... On the top of my IC there were numbers that corresponded to the diagram on the box though...so thats what I used to orient the whole thing. If you even think that you could have built it wrong, Ide de-solder everything, and re-build it.
Also, make sure you arent heating that IC up too much. And also make sure you have some sort of anti static protection when messing with it. You CAN mess it up... And its not like its a big deal, but you dont want it to screw up your PCM in the process...that is a big deal.
LS1MCSS: Ide say the pre-built box is about the size of a zippo lighter. Maybe a bit smaller. Its pretty tiny... I added a 3-terminal weather pack connector, and used velcro to hold it inside my console. I had it so I could pull the box off, unplug it, and the car was dead (well...run 2 seconds then dead). It also has alittle light on it so you can see its working.
J.
Also, make sure you arent heating that IC up too much. And also make sure you have some sort of anti static protection when messing with it. You CAN mess it up... And its not like its a big deal, but you dont want it to screw up your PCM in the process...that is a big deal.
LS1MCSS: Ide say the pre-built box is about the size of a zippo lighter. Maybe a bit smaller. Its pretty tiny... I added a 3-terminal weather pack connector, and used velcro to hold it inside my console. I had it so I could pull the box off, unplug it, and the car was dead (well...run 2 seconds then dead). It also has alittle light on it so you can see its working.
J.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
The best way to keep from overheating the IC is to use an IC socket so you can plug it in after you finish soldering. http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...e%2FIC+sockets
you know i was a little worried about overheating it, because i wanted good solder joints( i kept thinking i was close to the danger zone). ic socket is a great idea, cant believe i didnt do that. the best ideas are usually the simplest.
leonpiper69: Did you get the one that has the colored transparent case? I forget the brand/seller name... It works well though.
J.
