LS1 Distributor?
LS1 Distributor? Anybody running the carb version LS1 with the front mounted distributor? I have a couple ?'s. Is there any machining required? Why are people suggesting the use of a Ford 302 distributor when the new GMPP catalog suggest using a GM HEI? What all is required to pull this conversion off? I'm having a hard time deciding on whether or not to keep my LS1 EFI, swap to the carb intake and MSD or to go carb with the front distributor.
If you are going to go to the carb, just keep it simple and use the MSD box. At least you still get to keep the coil per cylinder at that point. We have used a couple of those distibutor setups in the past and they just aren't good. I mean, they will work, it is just not right, imho.
If you are going to go to the carb, just keep it simple and use the MSD box. At least you still get to keep the coil per cylinder at that point. We have used a couple of those distibutor setups in the past and they just aren't good. I mean, they will work, it is just not right, imho.
Well, I guess it just doesn't pay to put a distributor on something never meant for one. Plus, the cost is way more to get all the components to make that setup work vs. the MSD 6010.
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Just wondering cuz some people on here have problems with the MSD6010 firing with a aftermarket crankshaft. You ever had any problems with the 6010? I've got one just havn't finished my project yet to see if its going to work or not.
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Verdad Gallardo I think the only problem we have had is that the car wasn't cranking fast enough to get the thing fired properly. Other than that, I believe they have been ok. What were people seeing with the aftermarket cranks?
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Scoggy Dickens sells the cover you need for the ford distributor for $400
and that doesn't include the price of the fuel pump (I'd still go electric) and the distributor.
http://www.sdparts.com/catalogsdparts.aspx
That can be a costly setup, unless you're planning on paying $400 to $500 for the dyno tune on your efi when you're all done.
and that doesn't include the price of the fuel pump (I'd still go electric) and the distributor.
http://www.sdparts.com/catalogsdparts.aspx
That can be a costly setup, unless you're planning on paying $400 to $500 for the dyno tune on your efi when you're all done.
Scoggy Dickens sells the cover you need for the ford distributor for $400
and that doesn't include the price of the fuel pump (I'd still go electric) and the distributor.
http://www.sdparts.com/catalogsdparts.aspx
That can be a costly setup, unless you're planning on paying $400 to $500 for the dyno tune on your efi when you're all done.
and that doesn't include the price of the fuel pump (I'd still go electric) and the distributor.
http://www.sdparts.com/catalogsdparts.aspx
That can be a costly setup, unless you're planning on paying $400 to $500 for the dyno tune on your efi when you're all done.
So, just to get this straight, you already have all the components for the fuel injection, right? So, now you can spend that money on the dyno tune. You will break even, and be way happier with the performance. I mean, it will idle better, drive better, have better throttle response, start when it is cold, not be so smelly rich, get way better fuel mileage, have more torque, an, it is completely diagnosable with a scan tool. Just to name a few.
Don't forget the carbonator, oops, I mean carberator. And, if you are going to put a distributor and carb on, you better get the thing to a dyno.
So, just to get this straight, you already have all the components for the fuel injection, right? So, now you can spend that money on the dyno tune. You will break even, and be way happier with the performance. I mean, it will idle better, drive better, have better throttle response, start when it is cold, not be so smelly rich, get way better fuel mileage, have more torque, an, it is completely diagnosable with a scan tool. Just to name a few.
So, just to get this straight, you already have all the components for the fuel injection, right? So, now you can spend that money on the dyno tune. You will break even, and be way happier with the performance. I mean, it will idle better, drive better, have better throttle response, start when it is cold, not be so smelly rich, get way better fuel mileage, have more torque, an, it is completely diagnosable with a scan tool. Just to name a few.
Why go carb? EFI is much more efficient.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 1
From: Simi VAlley,CA
I have seen several of my "old skool" associates do the LS carb version for their old hot rods like mine.....I'm sure they don't run as well as my injected LS1......but the REAL "old skool" guys want a big ol carb and a big ol distributor and a big ol mess of plug wires......and they are SCARED TO DEATH of anything that might resemble a COMPUTER!!!!
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
I'd keep the carb, but also keep the coil packs. I don't know if anyone has seen Reggie Jackson's Camaro with the lsx swap, but they relocated the coil packs, off of the valve covers so you don't see them.
If its a daily driver stay injunked , opps i mean injected! If you dont want to waste hundreds of dollars on a tune every time you change something go with a carb, a jet kit and an A/F ratio gauge is all you need! , no need to pay someone for another tune. Im runnin the 6010 and a carb with factory coil packs remote mounted and have not had the first problem , last week it was 36 deg. here, two pumps hit the key and walk away... Runnin like a sewing machine... Just my OP....