Fuel lines -- Steel to plastic ???
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 102
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From: NE Kansas
Fuel lines -- Steel to plastic ??? I am putting an LS1 in my 39 Chevy. I will run the stock tank with an external pump. I will have steel line running through a filter and on to the front of the car. How do I mate that to the LS 1 plastic fuel line?
I would eliminate them and use steel or SS Braided hose w/AN Fittings. If not there are a number of options and combination that you can come up with.
You should be albe to pickup some OEM Type repair kits (Doman ?), they have kits to repair or replace new line. You might try intergrading them with steel line using compression fitting and AN Fittings.
They sale a 12" piece of steel tube that has the barb on each end that can be used with the GM Quick Disconnect fittings.
What are the current fitting or hose end are you trying to connect ?
You should be albe to pickup some OEM Type repair kits (Doman ?), they have kits to repair or replace new line. You might try intergrading them with steel line using compression fitting and AN Fittings.
They sale a 12" piece of steel tube that has the barb on each end that can be used with the GM Quick Disconnect fittings.
What are the current fitting or hose end are you trying to connect ?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
I`m cheap and reused the stock plastic flex lines off a v6 4th gen camaro
. I didn`t even buy the dorman ends, I just cut the steel fuel line of at the yard, then I double flared it and used a union to connect it to regular steel fuel line. That way I had the quick connect ends and plastic fuel lines. I did the same thing on my 4.3L chevette, the GM plastic fuel lines are so easy to work with/quick to connect and to top it off they are dirt cheap at the boneyard. You can also use a compression fitting to join the lines if you don`t have to tools to double flare them.
. I didn`t even buy the dorman ends, I just cut the steel fuel line of at the yard, then I double flared it and used a union to connect it to regular steel fuel line. That way I had the quick connect ends and plastic fuel lines. I did the same thing on my 4.3L chevette, the GM plastic fuel lines are so easy to work with/quick to connect and to top it off they are dirt cheap at the boneyard. You can also use a compression fitting to join the lines if you don`t have to tools to double flare them. It is the S&P settup, not the cheapest, but it really is slick.
$218.00____LS1Air Cleaner 3" filter________Filter and plate.
$0.00______3pin MAF___________________140 core charge, return old MAF
$37.00_____Polished 3pin MAF adapter_____MAF to TB
$32.00_____Screw in IAT________________Fits S&P housing
Note:
The pics don't show it, but we used hardline down the factory routing. We changed to braided behind the spring perch.
$218.00____LS1Air Cleaner 3" filter________Filter and plate.
$0.00______3pin MAF___________________140 core charge, return old MAF
$37.00_____Polished 3pin MAF adapter_____MAF to TB
$32.00_____Screw in IAT________________Fits S&P housing
Note:
The pics don't show it, but we used hardline down the factory routing. We changed to braided behind the spring perch.
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Verdad Gallardo They modify a stock MAF to work with the adapter. You just send them yours and they will get it taken care of. The screw-in IAT isn't truly required (you could use silicone to get the press in style to fit) but for $32, it does fit nicer. Not the cheapest solution out there, but it really fit the look she wanted.
On the fuel lines, we are using the Corvetter style filter/regulator. The 3/8 line is input from the pump in the tank, and the 5/16 line is the return line to the tank. Then it has just one line going to the fuel rail.
On the fuel lines, we are using the Corvetter style filter/regulator. The 3/8 line is input from the pump in the tank, and the 5/16 line is the return line to the tank. Then it has just one line going to the fuel rail.
I will have to measure it tonight, the car is down to the World of Wheels and we will be heading back down tonight. The filter itself is 3", so ballpark is approx 4" from the square part of the MAF...
You can see we have plnaty of clearance on our install...
S&P is the shorthand for Street and Performance. They are at www.hotrodlane.cc
S&P is the shorthand for Street and Performance. They are at www.hotrodlane.cc
You will need a regulator and a return line. There are several ideas on how to accomplish this in the Sticky section. You could still use the Corvette regulator arrangment by adding a return line to your tank.
Yep. We ordered ours from S&P with the Sagelock adapters, but you could probably save a few coins gathering everything yourself. The quick-connect fitting is the hardest to deal with, but do a search for Dormann in this section and you will find a thread about parts that work if you decide to go this route. You have a lot of choices when it comes to a regulator, but none are as easy to plumb as the corvette filter/regulator in my opinion.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 102
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From: NE Kansas
As soon as I have the brakes bled the car is going for the exhaust system. Then the engine will come out one more time to finish boxing the frame. Next time it goes back in should be the final time. I will then start the plumbing. You have been a lot of help and I thank you.