1970 GTO Version 2.0
#461
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I could not leave that one alone. I had to throw in my 2 sense.
#463
Launching!
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Andrew,
Nice build! I really dig the shaker! I have considered doing the same...I just don't expect that much of a gain vs what I have now.
I get a kick out of the LS hate in older muscle cars. True hardcore Pontiac TA fans need to realize...the two fastest TAs ever did not have a "Pontiac" engine in them (1989 turbo Buick and 2002 LS1).
Leon
Nice build! I really dig the shaker! I have considered doing the same...I just don't expect that much of a gain vs what I have now.
I get a kick out of the LS hate in older muscle cars. True hardcore Pontiac TA fans need to realize...the two fastest TAs ever did not have a "Pontiac" engine in them (1989 turbo Buick and 2002 LS1).
Leon
#464
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Andrew,
Nice build! I really dig the shaker! I have considered doing the same...I just don't expect that much of a gain vs what I have now.
I get a kick out of the LS hate in older muscle cars. True hardcore Pontiac TA fans need to realize...the two fastest TAs ever did not have a "Pontiac" engine in them (1989 turbo Buick and 2002 LS1).
Leon
Nice build! I really dig the shaker! I have considered doing the same...I just don't expect that much of a gain vs what I have now.
I get a kick out of the LS hate in older muscle cars. True hardcore Pontiac TA fans need to realize...the two fastest TAs ever did not have a "Pontiac" engine in them (1989 turbo Buick and 2002 LS1).
Leon
Thanks for the compliments. I have done some informal testing and the shaker keeps the IAT to within 5-10 degrees of ambient. One thing that the LS engines are sensitive to is intake temp. If the IAT get above 140-150 degrees, the computer starts pulling timing aggressively and power drops.
You're so right about those TAs, but I would guess that to a die hard Pontiac fan, those weren't real TAs anyway.
Andrew
#465
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I am a big fan of the Hot Rod Garage show on the Motor Trend YouTube channel, and on the last episode, they did a LS3 swap into an A-body. Good stuff here, except they totally glossed over how they are managing the 4L65E electronics...
Andrew
Andrew
#467
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Do you have plan to install this into your GTO?
My chevelle suffers from the driveline vibration (who's doesn't) and before I pull the trigger on the single cv joint shaft, I'd like to know. Where do you stand on the single cv shaft you have in your car? Does it still vibrate?
Eric
My chevelle suffers from the driveline vibration (who's doesn't) and before I pull the trigger on the single cv joint shaft, I'd like to know. Where do you stand on the single cv shaft you have in your car? Does it still vibrate?
Eric
There have been various discussion on several forums that I frequent regarding driveline vibrations, angles, etc...
In one of the posts, I made the comment that just about every modern, rear wheel drive, performance car uses CV joints for the driveshaft. We spent all kinds of stupid money to buy the latest engine, transmission, and suspension parts, but when it comes to our driveline components, we still use u-joints that date back to the 19th century. I have used a CV driveshaft with great success, but the optimal solution would be to use a driveshaft that uses a CV joint at both the transmission end and at the pinion. So I called Frank at The Driveshaft Shop to discuss this further and after telling him all this he starts to laugh. Then he proceeds to tell me how he just made a batch of pinion yokes for the Ford 9" and the Chevy 12 bolt rear ends that will accommodate a 108mm (Porsche 930 style) CV joint. He sent me the picture below:
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo205.jpg)
That particular yoke is for the Ford 9" rear. What this means is that if someone wants the ultimate solution for a driveshaft, this is it. Using CVs at both ends of the driveshaft means that driveline angles become largely irrelevant. The CVs can accommodate up to 9 degrees of articulation and the front and rear angles operating don't have to match, be opposite, or be as small as possible.
Andrew
In one of the posts, I made the comment that just about every modern, rear wheel drive, performance car uses CV joints for the driveshaft. We spent all kinds of stupid money to buy the latest engine, transmission, and suspension parts, but when it comes to our driveline components, we still use u-joints that date back to the 19th century. I have used a CV driveshaft with great success, but the optimal solution would be to use a driveshaft that uses a CV joint at both the transmission end and at the pinion. So I called Frank at The Driveshaft Shop to discuss this further and after telling him all this he starts to laugh. Then he proceeds to tell me how he just made a batch of pinion yokes for the Ford 9" and the Chevy 12 bolt rear ends that will accommodate a 108mm (Porsche 930 style) CV joint. He sent me the picture below:
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/gtov2/photo205.jpg)
That particular yoke is for the Ford 9" rear. What this means is that if someone wants the ultimate solution for a driveshaft, this is it. Using CVs at both ends of the driveshaft means that driveline angles become largely irrelevant. The CVs can accommodate up to 9 degrees of articulation and the front and rear angles operating don't have to match, be opposite, or be as small as possible.
Andrew
#468
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Do you have plan to install this into your GTO?
My chevelle suffers from the driveline vibration (who's doesn't) and before I pull the trigger on the single cv joint shaft, I'd like to know. Where do you stand on the single cv shaft you have in your car? Does it still vibrate?
Eric
My chevelle suffers from the driveline vibration (who's doesn't) and before I pull the trigger on the single cv joint shaft, I'd like to know. Where do you stand on the single cv shaft you have in your car? Does it still vibrate?
Eric
The single CV shaft that is in my GTO cured the vibration issue. You will have to adjust the rear operating angle, and maybe experiment a little to find the sweet spot, but it works. You want the rear operating angle to be -0.5 to -1.0 degrees, in other words, forming a shallow V between the driveshaft and the pinion gear. The amount of angle will depend on your rear suspension and how much it deflects under power, which is where the experimentation comes in.
Just yesterday I rode in my buddy Bob's 67 GTO he has an aluminum single CV shaft and it was super smooth, and believe me, Bob is picky. We were chasing down a minor lean bucking issue (cause by a lean cruise) that most people wouldn't even know was there. My buddy TJ just put one in his drag week 67 Chevelle. Ken is using one in his 67 LSA powered Chevelle. All single CV shafts.
Now, having said all that, my personal opinion is that the ultimate solution is a double CV shaft. The parts above were not destined for my GTO, but for my 1967 Cougar. You can read the whole build here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...es-videos.html
The Cougar has a LS swap and F-body T56. I had Frank build me a dual CV shaft.
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/609.jpg)
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/610.jpg)
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/611.jpg)
Front...
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/612.jpg)
Rear...
![](http://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/613.jpg)
The reason I did this was that I wanted the smoothest possible driveline that I could get. The Cougar has 4.33 rear gears, so at 75 mph the driveshaft is spinning 4000 rpm. It is also relatively long at 55.5" from yoke to yoke.
When cruising down the highway, you can put your hand on the shifter, and there is literally nothing to feel. Not even the slightest hint of engine or driveline vibration. It is amazingly smooth.
Again, my personal preference is a dual CV shaft, and had the parts been available when I did the GTO, that is what I would have done. Just to be clear, Frank tends to be conservative with his customers and he never pushes anyone into a more expensive solution. He believe that the single CV shaft does the job, and I (and many other people) would agree that it does. But for me, it will be dual CV shafts in every future project.
Andrew
#469
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Tacoma, WA
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I am a big fan of the Hot Rod Garage show on the Motor Trend YouTube channel, and on the last episode, they did a LS3 swap into an A-body. Good stuff here, except they totally glossed over how they are managing the 4L65E electronics...
The Ultimate Bolt-In Chevy LS3 Engine Swap - Hot Rod Garage Ep. 11 - YouTube
Andrew
The Ultimate Bolt-In Chevy LS3 Engine Swap - Hot Rod Garage Ep. 11 - YouTube
Andrew
im having some trouble with my hooker manifolds could you tell me what exhaust your are running for your goat? thanks
my shift linkage as to tight and won't move by the manifolds as they are to close to the firewall
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#471
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It's been a while since I have updated this thread or even taken the GTO out for a spin. I've been having a lot of fun with the Cougar, but lately I have been thinking about how I can improve the GTO.
Hooker is about to release a lot of very well engineered components for A-body swaps and it is tempting to redo my swap to make things better. Holley has new mounts, headers, and crossmembers that are engineered to work together and work around the Holley oil pan. Currently my inner tie rods hit the Autokraft pan so it would be nice to fix that.
I would also like to have new stainless headers and a full stainless exhaust, which Hooker will offer. I realize that it seems kind of dumb to redo a car that runs and drives, but I am always trying to make things better.
Another thing that I have been thinking about is swapping over to a 4L80E. Seems kind of nuts, but I have never owned a performance car with an automatic and I would really enjoy seeing what I can do in terms of tuning the transmission. To make the auto trans possible, I would also swap the ECU to a Holley Dominator.
I am open to all inputs....
Andrew
Hooker is about to release a lot of very well engineered components for A-body swaps and it is tempting to redo my swap to make things better. Holley has new mounts, headers, and crossmembers that are engineered to work together and work around the Holley oil pan. Currently my inner tie rods hit the Autokraft pan so it would be nice to fix that.
I would also like to have new stainless headers and a full stainless exhaust, which Hooker will offer. I realize that it seems kind of dumb to redo a car that runs and drives, but I am always trying to make things better.
Another thing that I have been thinking about is swapping over to a 4L80E. Seems kind of nuts, but I have never owned a performance car with an automatic and I would really enjoy seeing what I can do in terms of tuning the transmission. To make the auto trans possible, I would also swap the ECU to a Holley Dominator.
I am open to all inputs....
Andrew
#472
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Well it's nice to know I am not the only person that can't leave well enough alone, I have a 66 GTO with a LS2 & T56, I started my project in 2007 and thought I finished it in 2010, I recently replaced my Ricks stainless tank equipped with a Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump with another Ricks stainless tank with a 5th gen. fuel module just because I liked the simplicity of the new fuel module.
I too have been watching the Holley swap components and wanting to upgrade my BRP mounts and Hedman Headers and LH8 oil pan to the Holley stuff, when I did my swap in 2007 there was not a lot of options available. Kinda luckily for me Holley doesn't offer a 64-67 Abody swap kit yet or I would have done the same you are thinking of and torn down my running, finished car apart to upgrade it.
Although reading Kwhizz's threads and him supercharging all his cars, now has me researching the TVS2300 series of superchargers and making me feel like I need one of those shiny things on top of my engine. Or just selling my 10k mile LS2 and going with a LS3 525 H.P. engine with one of the shiny things on top of it. I've already started calculating cost and what I can recoup selling my old stuff, I also keep thinking of your Holley Dominator and the CV driveshaft.
I guess it's true what they say in that the car is never truly finished.
I too have been watching the Holley swap components and wanting to upgrade my BRP mounts and Hedman Headers and LH8 oil pan to the Holley stuff, when I did my swap in 2007 there was not a lot of options available. Kinda luckily for me Holley doesn't offer a 64-67 Abody swap kit yet or I would have done the same you are thinking of and torn down my running, finished car apart to upgrade it.
Although reading Kwhizz's threads and him supercharging all his cars, now has me researching the TVS2300 series of superchargers and making me feel like I need one of those shiny things on top of my engine. Or just selling my 10k mile LS2 and going with a LS3 525 H.P. engine with one of the shiny things on top of it. I've already started calculating cost and what I can recoup selling my old stuff, I also keep thinking of your Holley Dominator and the CV driveshaft.
I guess it's true what they say in that the car is never truly finished.
#473
On The Tree
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I too cannot leave well enough alone. My son and I built a 66 GTO LQ9/T56 starting in 2008. He took it to college when we finished it, and I got it back about 6 months ago when he moved to DC. I've watched this build since your Memphis days - and was about to review your driveshaft "solution" to upgrade mine. I'm also about to do the RetroWorx kit /5th gen camaro pump to fix the gas starvation issues we have from using the Spectre tank with the internal pump. Our car is a joy to drive - we drove from Memphis to Yellowstone and beyond in September, but it can always be improved.
My son and I both love to shift, but I would love to see how the 4L80 works out.
Ricky
My son and I both love to shift, but I would love to see how the 4L80 works out.
Ricky
#474
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Thanks for the input guys. It because clear to me a long time ago that while I still very much enjoy the pro-touring build theme, the GTO (nor me as a driver) will ever be competitive in any sort of auto-cross/track day event. This isn't to say that I don't enjoy going out there and having fun, but the GTO is more of what it's name is all about. GTO = Gran Turismo Omologato...aka a grand touring car, which to me means handling and stopping better than stock, but also being able to get in it and driving on long road trips.
We shall see what happens. I recently got the news that a move south is in my future, so this upgrade may have to wait until that happens.
Andrew
We shall see what happens. I recently got the news that a move south is in my future, so this upgrade may have to wait until that happens.
Andrew
#475
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Thanks for the input guys. It because clear to me a long time ago that while I still very much enjoy the pro-touring build theme, the GTO (nor me as a driver) will ever be competitive in any sort of auto-cross/track day event. This isn't to say that I don't enjoy going out there and having fun, but the GTO is more of what it's name is all about. GTO = Gran Turismo Omologato...aka a grand touring car, which to me means handling and stopping better than stock, but also being able to get in it and driving on long road trips.
We shall see what happens. I recently got the news that a move south is in my future, so this upgrade may have to wait until that happens.
Andrew
We shall see what happens. I recently got the news that a move south is in my future, so this upgrade may have to wait until that happens.
Andrew
#477
#478
12 Second Club
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Thanks for the input guys. It because clear to me a long time ago that while I still very much enjoy the pro-touring build theme, the GTO (nor me as a driver) will ever be competitive in any sort of auto-cross/track day event. This isn't to say that I don't enjoy going out there and having fun, but the GTO is more of what it's name is all about. GTO = Gran Turismo Omologato...aka a grand touring car, which to me means handling and stopping better than stock, but also being able to get in it and driving on long road trips.