Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 11:58 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
.0014" is a lot. So when you were measuring you saw .0028" variance on the dial indicator?

Andrew
Yeah.

Got less than 4 or so after putting in some offset dowel pins.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by tja42853
That is kinda funny. What are you running for a bell housing and clutch set up?
Keisler Aluminum Bellhousing, LS2/LS7 Pressure Plate Clutch and Flywheel. Hydraulic Clutch setup as well from Keisler.

I had a Mcleod Bellhousing but sold it and went to the Keisler unit.

Have you noticed that with the engine close to level, the header pipes actually point up about 1 degree or so? For my engine to sit level I have a 1/ 1/2 inch wood block between the tranny mount and the crossmember.
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1970-Cloned

Have you noticed that with the engine close to level, the header pipes actually point up about 1 degree or so? For my engine to sit level I have a 1/ 1/2 inch wood block between the tranny mount and the crossmember.
Ben, I have not addressed that yet. I need to buy an angle finder. I really want to get the body on the frame so I will have a better idea where I am at.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #44  
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Thats amazing, good luck with it all
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DaSkinnyGuy
Thats amazing, good luck with it all
Thanks.

I messed with the bell housing Today. This tool is from Browell bell Housings. I ran into a snag as the collar is to thick for my flywheel bolts (I have not searched yet, but if anybodys know what size off the top of head please let me know). It was a real snug on the crank so I tried it anyway. I had them machine the collar at 4.6825" as the Bell I.D. is 4.6875". This will give me the .005 diff and should work as a go/no go indicator. As you can see it fit on but I suspect that there is a chance that without it fastened it possibly could move. I will get longer bolts and try on another day.




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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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I also bolted up the Flywheel, clutch and press plate to measure for Hydraulic TOB. I came up with about 3.125". I also followed Andrew's(Project Gatago) advice and traded in my plastic $3.00 "Donkey" tool as he coined it for the Quartermaster piece. Thanks for the tip.

Last edited by tja42853; Apr 4, 2008 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 03:04 PM
  #47  
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Tom,

Looks good. I think the Browell tool is used a lot by circle track engine builders. They don't check bellhousings. They align the bell and bore the bell and block for an oversized pin. The bellhousings go with a specific block. I am glad you picked up the Quarter Master alignment tool. It really makes like easier when installing the clutch. We all know how frustrating it can be to stab a transmission into the bellhousing, on your back, fighting a misaligned clutch.

Are you going to get the Keisler hydraulics? What bearing are you going to use?

Andrew
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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looking great man!!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Tom,

Are you going to get the Keisler hydraulics? What bearing are you going to use?

Andrew
Andrew. Yes, I am gonna go that way. I like the bracket /MC set up based on what you posted on it. With regards to the TOB I may just buy the one they supply (Keisler) as it is already set up for a TKO. I don't know what brand it is, but I am not gonna be making crazy HP so I hope to be okay. As for the Browell tool- yah it's kinda a neat idea I thought for some of us that work solo. Here is a little more detailed right up on it http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

Thanks,
Tom

Last edited by tja42853; Apr 6, 2008 at 09:54 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by tja42853
Andrew. Yes, I am gonna go that way. I like the bracket /MC set up based on what you posted on it. With regards to the TOB I may just buy the one they supply (Keisler) as it is already set up for a TKO. I don't know what brand it is, but I am not gonna be making crazy HP so I hope to be okay. As for the Browell tool- yah it's kinda a neat idea I thought for some of us that work solo. Here is a little more detailed right up on it http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

Thanks,
Tom
Tom,

It slipped my mind that you were using the TKO. I believe the bearing that Keisler uses is made by Sachs. It is a German OEM supplier, similar to Luk or Valeo in the US. I have no doubt their setup will work fine. I am actually going to get a slightly smaller MC. I saw on the Wilwood website that they make a .700" bore that is externally the same. The smaller bore will give me a lighter pedal and less bearing travel. As I have it now, there is plenty of bearing travel at the bearing.

Andrew
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #51  
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Car looks sharp so far. I can't wait to see more progress. All your guys post just give me more idea's for mine. Keep us updated
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by tja42853
Andrew. Yes, I am gonna go that way. I like the bracket /MC set up based on what you posted on it. With regards to the TOB I may just buy the one they supply (Keisler) as it is already set up for a TKO. I don't know what brand it is, but I am not gonna be making crazy HP so I hope to be okay. As for the Browell tool- yah it's kinda a neat idea I thought for some of us that work solo. Here is a little more detailed right up on it http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

Thanks,
Tom
I have the keisler bellhousing and TOB on my LS2. I am running an LS7 clutch and TKO. Make sure you get the spacers to put behind the TOB when you install it, otherwise you will overextend the TOB and destroy it just like I did.

They told me the TOB is some German unit off a BMW. But they machine it to fit inside the bellhousing hole. Kind of disconcerting to see half the hydraulic fitting machined away from the TOB. So be careful threading in the metric fitting to hook up the hydraulics.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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From: Little Austin
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Hey Tom,

When you get a chance, would you mind measuring the distance between the header collectors? Center to center would be awesome!

Thanks,
Andrew
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:42 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Hey Tom,

When you get a chance, would you mind measuring the distance between the header collectors? Center to center would be awesome!

Thanks,
Andrew
Andrew

I have the same setup with my LS2 and the edelbrock headers. They measure 21 1/2 from center to center.

Thanks

Ben
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:59 AM
  #55  
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WOW! Thats what me and my father would like to do. I keep going back and forth between my favorite, a '69-'71 chevelle, my dads old car, a '69 charger, or like a '67 or '68 coronet. Keep up the great work! Definitely keep us updated with pics.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 09:19 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 1970-Cloned
Andrew

I have the same setup with my LS2 and the edelbrock headers. They measure 21 1/2 from center to center.

Thanks

Ben
Thanks Ben. I just wanted to see how far off my existing exhaust is. The big block that I had in there before had headers with 3.5" collectors that went into a Dr. Gas 3.5" to 3" X-pipe. I may have to get a new 3" to 3" X-pipe.

Andrew
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 11:16 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Thanks Ben. I just wanted to see how far off my existing exhaust is. The big block that I had in there before had headers with 3.5" collectors that went into a Dr. Gas 3.5" to 3" X-pipe. I may have to get a new 3" to 3" X-pipe.

Andrew
I am going with 2 1/2 inch exhaust down from the 3" that was on my 454
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 02:16 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Hey Tom,

When you get a chance, would you mind measuring the distance between the header collectors? Center to center would be awesome!

Thanks,
Andrew
Andrew,

Sorry for the delay as I am out of town and I will look when I am back tonight.

Tom

Edit, Sorry did not see prior as it looks like Ben got it for you.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 02:20 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
They told me the TOB is some German unit off a BMW. But they machine it to fit inside the bellhousing hole. Kind of disconcerting to see half the hydraulic fitting machined away from the TOB. So be careful threading in the metric fitting to hook up the hydraulics.
Thanks for the tip. After seeing it would you have still bought it again? I assume your sticking with it? Thanks for the feedback

Tom
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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From: Little Austin
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Keisler includes detailed instructions about how to determine the correct installed height of the bearing. It is similar to the process that I vent through to properly position my Quarter Master bearing.

Andrew
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