temp hits 210*, i can rev the engine and it goes down to 170*..?
03-23-2008, 04:23 PM
#1
temp hits 210*, i can rev the engine and it goes down to 170*..? i just swapped out a new thermostat, it was suppose to be a 160* but the guy ripped me off and it turned out to be a 180*- either way, it was new and it seems to flow alot better than my old one
after adding coolant, through the top rad. hose w/ steam vent detached, i connected everything back up and started it to top it off. i kept the fan off the whole time so it would warm up a little faster
thoughout the time i was topping it off, W/ the fan off, the temp NEVER went over 190*. when i was done, i put the cap back on then let it idle for a couple more minutes then shut it off
10 min. later i restart, temp rises slowly all the way up to 210*, i then give it a 3k rev for 30 seconds and the temp drops down to 170*(old thermostat would just drop down to 205*)-- also when i got out and squeezed the top rad. hose, it had no pressure and seemed to have no water flowing through it. i took the cap off(since there was no pressure) and the water level in the rad. was full
should the temp. rise at a 3k rev, not droped 40 degrees? i think im having a flow issue here lol
after adding coolant, through the top rad. hose w/ steam vent detached, i connected everything back up and started it to top it off. i kept the fan off the whole time so it would warm up a little faster
thoughout the time i was topping it off, W/ the fan off, the temp NEVER went over 190*. when i was done, i put the cap back on then let it idle for a couple more minutes then shut it off
10 min. later i restart, temp rises slowly all the way up to 210*, i then give it a 3k rev for 30 seconds and the temp drops down to 170*(old thermostat would just drop down to 205*)-- also when i got out and squeezed the top rad. hose, it had no pressure and seemed to have no water flowing through it. i took the cap off(since there was no pressure) and the water level in the rad. was full
should the temp. rise at a 3k rev, not droped 40 degrees? i think im having a flow issue here lol
03-26-2008, 08:00 PM
#7
could it be because my water pump inlet is about 5 inches above the radiators outlet? soo its having to work extra hard to get coolant to flow? or since its a pressurized system that doesnt matter(it has pressure)
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03-27-2008, 01:34 PM
#10
im pretty sure its a flow issue. im thinking about taking the thermostat out and drilling a couple more holes in it to give it more flow. ive read everywhere that if you DONT run a thermostat(which allows alot more flow) you will overheat due to the coolant not absorbing any of the heat. mine seems to be doing the opposite- when i rev it up(speeding up the flow) it cools down ALOT
what do you guys think
what do you guys think
03-27-2008, 02:15 PM
#11
Ok. with the answer to my question. just checking for the possiblity of the configuration causing air pockets even after you have purged the system. I agree that is seem like a flow problem or still have an air pocket in the engine somewhere..???
Many have just run restricters (washer shaped) in place of the T-Stat.. or hae taken the T-Stat apart and just use the housing. Drilling holes helps the flow if the T-Stat has not opened up. There are HP High Flow ones that you might look into also.
But, yes.. you do need some restriction to keep the water or coolant at a slower speed to let it do its job of absorbing the heat in the engine and dissipating the heat in the radiator.
What about your Fans.. are they working at the right temps ? you checked the top hose.. is the bottom one ok and not Collapsed ? small posiblitiy of a bad water pump (but not likely) ??
I am following your problem.. waiting for the solution !
keep us posted.
Many have just run restricters (washer shaped) in place of the T-Stat.. or hae taken the T-Stat apart and just use the housing. Drilling holes helps the flow if the T-Stat has not opened up. There are HP High Flow ones that you might look into also.
But, yes.. you do need some restriction to keep the water or coolant at a slower speed to let it do its job of absorbing the heat in the engine and dissipating the heat in the radiator.
What about your Fans.. are they working at the right temps ? you checked the top hose.. is the bottom one ok and not Collapsed ? small posiblitiy of a bad water pump (but not likely) ??
I am following your problem.. waiting for the solution !
keep us posted.
03-27-2008, 02:54 PM
#12
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Is your heater hooked up? I had, at one time, capped off the heater lines on the water pump. The car would over heat when it sat at idle but cool right down when I reved it. I looped the heater outlets on the water pump and it has not done it since.
03-27-2008, 03:39 PM
#13
yea, my heater lines are hooked up. maybe i should try bypassing the heater core and see if that does anything.
i have one big fan/shroud combo(3,000cfm) that stays on all the time. hoses seem to be good, they feel very pressurized/solid.
ive been looking into Thermostat mods, i have found one where you put a shim somewhere, holding the thermostat open a little bit-and when it reaches the right temp it opens up even more than it did before. i should try that.
i hear the opinions on just using the housing and no t-stat are very bad.
i have one big fan/shroud combo(3,000cfm) that stays on all the time. hoses seem to be good, they feel very pressurized/solid.
ive been looking into Thermostat mods, i have found one where you put a shim somewhere, holding the thermostat open a little bit-and when it reaches the right temp it opens up even more than it did before. i should try that.
i hear the opinions on just using the housing and no t-stat are very bad.
03-27-2008, 11:24 PM
#15
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I have heard of people having all kinds of trouble getting rid of an air pocket and only after draining the system and re-purging(possibly 2 or 3 times) were they able to get it right. This just sounds so much like an air bubble and as I mentioned they can be a real bear to get rid of.
03-27-2008, 11:34 PM
#16
I have heard of people having all kinds of trouble getting rid of an air pocket and only after draining the system and re-purging(possibly 2 or 3 times) were they able to get it right. This just sounds so much like an air bubble and as I mentioned they can be a real bear to get rid of.
03-28-2008, 05:51 PM
#19
well ive been driving it a few days now- checking coolant level. the temp NEVER goes over 195* which is awesome. BUT when i have the a/c on it will climb up and stay at 221* which im guessing isnt that bad at all (since stock fans come on at this temp)
also, i have my pcm's temp sensor on the passenger side of the block(measure temp of coolant leaving the block) does this mean 221* is really 210ish?
also, i have my pcm's temp sensor on the passenger side of the block(measure temp of coolant leaving the block) does this mean 221* is really 210ish?