rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

i dont notice too much a difference on the street, but i dont drive on highways faster than about 65 usually


it def was funny with it so quiet driving down camping at the track and not making a sound and people watching after they saw what it ran haha

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

had a good weeekend at the track, car ran strong all weekend and the gear change and shorter 26" stiff wall slick worked great

i hurt the glide on this pass or it would of been a good one i feel

rawlsfwqq

Action speaks louder than words.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Ok so just a little deal about the powerglide, I chipped some teeth last pass of track day, it was a stock 1.76 gearset

here is what it looked like, not bad at all






just take you through some stuff for those never been in a glide


first is a roller governor support




here is the reverse gear pack installed into the case, i have 6 clutches here the piston is machined to accept more clutches

for reverse this pack is applied and it locks the planetary ring gear stationary



here is where you check clutch pack clearance, usually shoot for .010 per friction. i have .058 for 6 frictions, just right. different thickness steels and frictions can be used to set clearance as can machining the apply piston





here is the planetary ring gear installed into the clutch pack




here is the aftermarket 1.80 straight cut gearset/carrier/outputshaft vs the stock 1.76





here is the plantary installed into the case, and the input shaft installed showing how it engages the planetary








here is aftermarket sun gear vs the stock, it is installed onto the high clutch drum






here is the high clutch pack, I am running 6 clutches here. the apply piston is machined to accept more clutches if desired. measure pack thickness to set clearance



measure to find pack clearance, again .07-.01 per friction is the norm. different thickness frictions and steels can be used to set this, aswell as piston machining. i have .052 here




the stock high drum is fine to use in high power situations, here is the pack installed into the drum

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

here is the high clutch hub. this is an aftermarket unit

the stock one is cast iron and not suitable to high power



here is the hub installed into the high drum/clutch pack



here is the wedding ring and thrust plate installed ontop of the hub




here is the aftermarket sungear/plate installed onto the high drum/clutch assembly

for high gear this clutch is applied which locks the planetary up and every rotates so you get a 1:1 ratio input to output




here is the high drum assembly installed into the planetary/case

input shaft in just to show





here is the pump, just a stocker, i run the stock stator support. i dont run a sprag or diode in the converter so it is easy on the support. simple mods to the pump



i have converted to the pump to a roller thrust bearing, there is no reason to use a washer in a high hp build




pump installed and checking thrust play of unit. this is adjusted in a couple ways. can shim rear bearing, front bearing, machining drum/pump, or different pump gasket thicknesses

with a roller bearing you can keep thrust tight, a washer under in a power build needs quite a bit to last

i am at .007"

most will say .005-.015 with roller, .025 minimum with washer



i forgot to get a pic of the band assembly but for low gear the band is applied which locks the high clutch drum and utilizes the planetary gearing, 1.80 in this case

this is a hardened band adjusting strut/bolt. good idea



this is a billet band apply servo and cover, the cover is just for looks, the piston is functional as it has two sealing rings vs 1 of stock



here is the band assembly installed looking from the bottom



BTE transbrake valve body installed



and you are done, JW bell and sfi sheild.



hope that sheds some light on a powerglide for those who have never been in one

X-Bomb Racing

iTrader: (1)

That should be pretty much bullet proof now.

This is wayne from norotors. The guy that did the IRS swap that everyone said not to do lol
Im doing the ls thing now. I'm doing a 5.3 with a s480. Im hoping to pick up a second over the sbc on spray. Anyways your car looks nice. Good luck with the new trans. Im sure faster times to come!

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the trans build pics. Its amazing that a 60+ year old design still works in modern applications with only bolt on parts.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

ha thanks, the injectors are maxed, i doubt i will add anymore power to the car since it has been very reliable for me. if anything drop some weight and hopefully get it to 60ft

you will enjoy the LS, good motors

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

yup exactly

**** the trans before this was perty much stock with an aftermarket 40 dollar hub and good clutches and a valve body and it held together for a long time for me

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

just sharing some shots from the track the last time, just was lucky a professional nhra photographer was there

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

Did you use a Reid case?

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Got the air filter out of the engine bay. It bugged me. Instant 100hp lol

FlashLCD33

iTrader: (8)

You're the reason I have 2 86 RX7s in my garage right now....

Love this car, love the color, and damn it's fast.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man! They are nice cars with huge engine bays !

sq_creations

iTrader: (5)

Are you going to make a head light scoop of some sort?

Rob Carlson

damn that thing moves

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

sorry yeah, i plan to make the original popup a scoop i can lock up at the track

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

so i wondered why my steering rack was starting to kiss the oil pan, investigated

the napa rubber mounts where getting *** pounded i guess lol

that hole is supposed to be in the middle, the rubber has just distorted that far

picked up some polys, home vibs are not horrible









and i tried my first attempt at some body work, very nervous haha

i welded in the holes from the spoiler and the antenna, and there where some dents in the back deck that i have zero idea how they got there, someone sat on it or something

never have used body filler before ever, kinda cool to try something new. not hard to do but man alive it would take some time to resto a complete car that isnt straight as an arrow


It is a high traffic area in back there (always messing with the water tank and i throw my parachute in back then drive), so being Zac Brown i did my bedliner

i think it turned out dope

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

so i wondered why my steering rack was starting to kiss the oil pan, investigated

the napa rubber mounts where getting *** pounded i guess lol

that hole is supposed to be in the middle, the rubber has just distorted that far

picked up some polys, home vibs are not horrible









and i tried my first attempt at some body work, very nervous haha

i welded in the holes from the spoiler and the antenna, and there where some dents in the back deck that i have zero idea how they got there, someone sat on it or something

never have used body filler before ever, kinda cool to try something new. not hard to do but man alive it would take some time to resto a complete car that isnt straight as an arrow


It is a high traffic area in back there (always messing with the water tank and i throw my parachute in back then drive), so being Zac Brown i did my bedliner

i think it turned out dope

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

so fixing something i didnt have done proper to begin with

had it sort of ni**er rigged, whole intercooler system is 1" line but i had it stepped down to small 1/2" npt into and out of the intercooler

my cooler is small, to maximize its function i need all the flow capacity through the cooler i can get


i bought a flow meter setup so i can actually witness the change and where i am at

here is how it was setup half assed last year




this delivered around 10gpm at 13.5 volts, which surprised me, i didnt think it would be quite that much necked down that far




so then we go zac brown on it, some schd 40 aluminum pipe since i didnt like the idea of just making the ports larger on the intercooler since the standoff is very little











i need a 45* pushlock to for the other side which i dont have so sadly i couldnt do a test to see what my efforts resulted in

i changed to JIC fittings from just poly hose barb stuff