rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

worked a little on the front end, added this bar, it sits directly behind the bumper cover and supports it. not done yet





got my frozen boost IC too. it is a type 3. same as nicks but he has two

this core is the same size as the precision/garrett 1000hp cores

doesnt have to be super efficient, just dont want a flow restriction




this little baby has nearly triple the flow area as the big a2a i had

i bought the biggest treadstone horizontal A2A planning on using that but it is a little too thick to work and it acts only slightly better on the leaf blower. horizonal cores are just meh on big cube motors than move a lot of voume

if i could get a vertical pass core to work so that i had some flow area i would probably still stick with A2A


nothing scientific but it doesn't lie and it gives the idea

this blower moves maybe half the flow volume as my motor and it is already restricting flow, treadstone acted same way, maybe marginally better

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

probably overbuilt it a bit and could use it as a jack point, but very happy how it ended up in there






and wheel turned to lock

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

this big ****** came, it is way bigger than i thought it was going to be.... lucky it fits, sorta. haha

got it from Cris at CRT, it is the hp8811, 111mm turbine



it weighs 46lbs, 29 of that is the turbine housing

the turbine is a bit ridiculous haha, has nice billet aluminum backing plate





also started on the charge piping. could of just got rid of the cross pipe, decided i wanted to keep it, i bent the pipe in where it is open flush with the channel iron and welded that too






charge pipe will come out of IC and up like so

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

got alot done

first thing i did was build a drain box for the turbo, everybody likes a happy drainage, haha






here we have the intercooler setup done





turbo is all done and mounted, charge piping all done, intake done, exhaust is only thing left

on the charge piping i used hump hoses since the charge pipes are short and i use rubber engine mounts

i would usually weld the elbow on the turbo but i can pull the bearing housing and compressor out of the turbine housing if i would do that without dropping the IC

not a biggie i guess, just an extra coupler, haha








[img width=800 height=450]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20130420_163901_505_zpsf39e2cbf.jpg[/img]

SSjon

iTrader: (4)

Looks like your planning on running with those big block twin turbo V8's this year

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

lol yeah right, i still am only staying 2bar OS(15psi) and my current injectors. so still slow

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

I should never feel the need to upgrade the exhaust anymore lol

With the charge piping gone I have an incredible amount of room on the passenger side

It is 5" from turbo to fender. All 11ga aluminum. It will be stock quiet still when wanted because the full exhaust will still be there

I don't have the cutout yet. I wanted a sound performance pneumatic one bit they only have 4". Race ready is the onlyb5" electric cutout around from what I see

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

rained tonight, had an hr to work on the exhaust

55superbeetle

iTrader: (5)

Did that air box help with your cooling? I have a turbo lq4 in my volvo and am having a hard time keeping it cool on the freeway, thinking of doing something similar. It was 95 this weekend where I live and the fan was having to cycle to maintain 205 degrees at 80 mph speeds. What kind of temps do you see in warm weather? Trying to decide if this is normal or if I need to fix it. I'm running the griffin most f body guys run when they stand their radiator up, so I don't think it's a radiator issue.

And obviously your car is amazing, I love your build style, clean and simple!

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

thanks man!

Ill tell you what

i used to have a griffin but slightly smaller and i had problems, the fans ran full time in town or highway. always above 200

that was with no intercooler

i switched to a custome HOWE radiator. best thing i did. it is all aluminum and was 325 shipped buit to my specs


i added an a2a at the same time and the car still cooled amazing with just that change

fans on at 200, off at 185. in town even when it is above 90* the fans still cycle. fans never run on the highway

i went to the a2w but i still wanted it ducted into the radiator like i had my a2a ducted. that is why i built the box, i am not done with it

getting air out of the engine bay is as important as getting air to the radiator, venting in the forward part of the hood helps give you a good delta across the radiator.

hope that helps some, any specific questions just ask


NOTHING is worse than worrying about coolant temps, cant even enjoy driving the car

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

finished up the rest of the exhaust, it is weird to hear the thing quiet. goes from stupid crazy to stock vehicle

with the big *** thing open it is amazing how much still passes through the full exhaust, that surprised me



also did something a little different as opposed to before, it pointed slightly down before and on a dirty road or gravel the exhaust blow dust up and **** me off

so it is pointed up now




all i got left is working on the front end and plumbing the IC

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

I would look for air getting around your radiator instead of going through it. If your fan can cool it at 80mph air just isn't going through the rad' at that speed for one reason or another.

Could be too many gap around your rad' so air is going around it and not through it. Or there's too much air pressure in your engine bay that air doesn't flow through it.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

got a bunch of rain and some time to play

got the car out for the maiden voyage of the new setup


well there was an issue, first time i got on it boost went to 20 in a second

on the old turbo i never had any WG springs and no bottom reference on the wastegates to boost. just drive pressure pushed the gates open

worked great



well on this thing it breathes so well there is hardly any drive pressure to open the gate


so i added a the reference to boost on the gates so that would help open them..... thought the problem would be fixed... not


it would hold boost correctly till about 5500rpm and then it would creep big time. 20psi in a couple seconds

lets put it this way.... i could be WOT at 5000rpm and shut off the AMS1000 so there was no air on top of the gates and you could hear the gates open completely.... and it would still creep lol


this is with two 38mm gates in perfect priority


so i was upset and figured i would have to buy bigger gates....


BUT.... when i redid the intercooler i added a small dump pipe to one of the gates so that it wouldnt exhaust on the charge pipe

figured what the hell i will take that off and see what happens(not expecting anything)

well took it off and boost control is perfect....... put it back on and it creeps

Yes, it is hard to believe but there is no bullshit to it

this is all i took off if you can believe it




here is just a little vid, hardly any power just 8psi since i am tuning it at every map load point again

converter is ******* legit and couples up like a mother.... listen to it on the shift lol... need the boost up and so there is some power for it to act right


Hp8811, 8psi

Theblacknightls1

iTrader: (1)

Damn that is one sick rx7 sir !

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

thanks man

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

done

MrPotatoeHead

iTrader: (1)

Dude I love that cap on the bumper exit downpipe.

SpeedyMerrickan

nice red and black treatment. Looks real nice.

matt99

iTrader: (4)

I bet this is a god damn rocket, awesome work my friend