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Bump I have the old bumper removed and cleaned the body and frame the best I could. Primed And painted the frame and behind the wheel wells. And trunk floor. I have the bumper brackets blasted and repainted. Weather's been nice. Now snow coming this weekend. :-(
Waiting on parts. Have not heard anything from the led place yet.
Bumper bolt kit from Ames performance still not ready. Need a new license plate door also. Going to call first of the month for updates.
I picked a cam did a lot of research searching and you tube. Going with Predator z eL toro cam
Brian tooley racing dual spring .650 kit
243s are off and cleaned. And broken exhaust bolts removed.
The 5.3 spun number 6 and number 4 rod bearing. Looking into turning crank.
I finished my head cam swap
I had the 243 heads surfaced and valve job done with brian tooley racing dual springs platinum kit installed.
brian tooley 7.350 hardened pushrods.
MLS gaskets, fbody cam gasket kit from summit/amazon
Zracing timing chain and gears from cloyes
trick flow timing chain damper and ls2 dampener. allows ls2 style damper on blocks without the bottom holes tapped. my double roller rollmaster chain was just too loose to run anymore.
ls2 trays ls7 lifters arp crank bolt. new spark plugs
I degreed the cam in at 110 degree closest I could get to 109. had my friend help me. he owned the degree wheel and pushrod checker.
had issues with the comp crank socket not fitting any of our oil pump drives
had to machine the first and second we bought thinking there was an error on the first one. but now I have my own. just need a degree wheel now.
I shimmed the pump during reassembly. billet oil cap
el toro cam
upgraded to the two long bolt starter to prevent breaking the block
I also put on a new water pump the old one was stained.
im trying to get it tuned this Saturday. hopefully the weather will cooperate
un ls1 related I got the new bumper put on, custom LEDs installed with new lenses. it looks amazing. not huge on chroming things out. but the chrome bumper makes the wheels pop and the whole car really. I used a 69 gto bolt kit and had to get two extra bolts because the 69 only uses 4 instead of 6 and I had to file down the bolts to fit through the thick chrome on the bumper. took some time to get that all right. and made some rubber bump stops for the hideaway doors the original ones had long rotted away.
ill add pics and videos soon
It made 404 hp and 380ft lbs on a dynojet.
Autocross at good guys show. First one in Nebraska. Best time was this run 62.3 seconds the fastest in my class was 57 seconds. Very fun. I had passengers every run which I doubt changed my time much. What do you think? My other times were 71 sec then 64 then 65 and last run was 62.3 with my dad in the car. It was pretty scary for him. Lol
It made 404 hp and 380ft lbs on a dynojet.
Autocross at good guys show. First one in Nebraska. Best time was this run 62.3 seconds the fastest in my class was 57 seconds. Very fun. I had passengers every run which I doubt changed my time much. What do you think? My other times were 71 sec then 64 then 65 and last run was 62.3 with my dad in the car. It was pretty scary for him. Lol
I had mine flashed to run and dyno tuned after the cam swap by dan at Dynosport. http://dynosport.com/
thats where i send everybody. Does a good job.
Thanks Andrew. Your build is one of the references for my build.
thanks for the autocross input. I thought a passenger might help the balance. It was fun giving my friends and my dad a REAL ride in my car. Ive never actually done one before. I googled for tips. I bumped the pressure to 40psi to keep the tires on the rims and put the rear sway bar from soft to medium. and just left it in 1st. now i wished i would of tried the stiffest rear sway bar setting. i thought i was getting pretty good results with a basicly street shocks and never hitting a cone. the fastest street machine in my class was a 70 challenger running 57.7
My junk yard used sending unit was showing my fuel level in increasing the more I drove. So I decided it was time to replace it. Once removed i could see the broken fingers on the sending unit brushes. I checked gm my cost was over 260 bucks. I found a dorman part number 622-215 b body or impala tank sending unit for 119 free shipping on amazon prime. I swapped my racetronics pump in calibrated the speed hut fuel gauge to the new sender and installed it through the access hole I previously made in the trunk. Just in time for the rainy weekend....
I also installed sc and C front frame brace had to drill 4 holes in the frame on a drive on rack but really helped make the car feel more solid in the front. Took about 1/4-1/2 out of normal parking lot maneuvers. Can't wait to test this on an autocross. I added more brake bias and like I said stiffened the rear bar.
The zip ties were for mocking up at home. It was way easier on the drive on rack with an assistant to hold it while I center punched the holes and started drilling
I used many different sizes. they recommend six 0.0015, 0.002 and 0.003.
I bought two feeler gauge sets took them apart and took .0015-0.006 out and spaced them all out and checked the gap with the 0.0015 is your minimum clearance.
the videos are more helpful. just need to be able to fit the .0015 everywhere when your done so you know your pump isn't rubbing ON the housing.
Winter projects
A/C mount and Compressor
Vintage air or classic auto air
Umi rear shock brace
I want to upgrade to better performance shocks. Not sure which ones yet.
I want to redo my exhaust with cutouts.
May not get to it this winter.
Looking at Holley headers. They just came out with a new black heart stainless header and that probably fits better but costs more than I was planning on spending.
I got the new hooker headers and I love them. They fit extremely well With my current mount setup. Alot more room around the I shaft and more plug wire clearance but the best is the improved ground clearance.
For what its worth my 68 Chevelle intermediate steering shaft has the Big end at the gear box and the Flat sided at the column end, that's if you need a bit more room. I just used the 3/4" spline rag joint for the GC box.
I'll go back and read your Thread, I just caught the last page here.