LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
06-02-2010, 07:36 PM
#281
Come on man let's get this thing going. Just spent three days reading this thread. Planning on doing almost the exact same build but chevelle style. Great info, love how you did so much of the work yourself. Just wondering bout the s10 radiator. I know that it is I'm sure much more efficient than your original but is it going to have enough cooling capacity.
06-02-2010, 09:19 PM
#283
It's hard to work on it when I'm not in the same city... since I've been separated from it I've gotten stoked on it again (go figure) and I have some stuff that I'll be able to post up hopefully soon.
Regarding the S10 rad... I know what you mean, I keep going going back and forth on it, still haven't made my mind up yet. I'll see how much room I have when I start mocking up the hot side piping to see how flexible rad spacing would be.
Regarding the S10 rad... I know what you mean, I keep going going back and forth on it, still haven't made my mind up yet. I'll see how much room I have when I start mocking up the hot side piping to see how flexible rad spacing would be.
07-12-2010, 02:28 AM
#286
Ok here is a long-overdue mini update. I'm currently not in the same city as my car until August, but I returned this weekend to do a bit of work.
I had left the subframe connectors half-finished before I moved away a couple months ago, and I had tied the 2"x4" into the floorpan above the rear framerails on the inside of the car, but still had to tie the bottom bit of 2x4 end to the framerails...
This FINALLY wrapped up my subframe connector fab work which had a 3-month long intermission...
With the subframe connectors out of the way I of course had to create another problem to fix and cut a big hole...
Reason is due to tranny/driveshaft tunnel clearance, or lack thereof. For mockup I used a length of 2.5" pipe with a wood 2x4 to simulate clearance, and the trans spacered up to the max height I'd want it adjustable to...
Then also thought it'd be a good idea to throw in a driveshaft loop for safety, since I have the metal already anyways...
I got as far as mocking up the loop, but I'm optimistic about the end of all this under car metal fab, just need to weld the loop in and bend some new trans tunnel sheetmetal, and then I can foget about all that crap and start mocking up turbo hot side!!
Also, here's a teaser for what I've been working on when I'm not close to my car...
-Joe
I had left the subframe connectors half-finished before I moved away a couple months ago, and I had tied the 2"x4" into the floorpan above the rear framerails on the inside of the car, but still had to tie the bottom bit of 2x4 end to the framerails...
This FINALLY wrapped up my subframe connector fab work which had a 3-month long intermission...
With the subframe connectors out of the way I of course had to create another problem to fix and cut a big hole...
Reason is due to tranny/driveshaft tunnel clearance, or lack thereof. For mockup I used a length of 2.5" pipe with a wood 2x4 to simulate clearance, and the trans spacered up to the max height I'd want it adjustable to...
Then also thought it'd be a good idea to throw in a driveshaft loop for safety, since I have the metal already anyways...
I got as far as mocking up the loop, but I'm optimistic about the end of all this under car metal fab, just need to weld the loop in and bend some new trans tunnel sheetmetal, and then I can foget about all that crap and start mocking up turbo hot side!!
Also, here's a teaser for what I've been working on when I'm not close to my car...
-Joe
07-16-2010, 08:02 AM
#287
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Saint Peters, MO
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One suggestion I'd throw out there is to consider running a fuel pressure gauge since you're running forced induction.
07-20-2010, 12:00 AM
#291
Hmm I was considering buying one of those but thought that, much like an AFR gauge, if something goes horribly wrong it'd happen almost too quickly to tell. I'm almost thinking of away to have the engine cut out if the fuel pressure dips below a certain pressure.
Anyways, I was going to save all these pics for when I completed the gauge panel, but school has been consuming my time, so I guess I'll call this update "Gauges Part I"...
The SpeedHut Revolution Series gauges...
Neat wiring, each gauge with its own mini harness...
Each gauge is super easy to dismantle partially or fully, depending on how you want to custom mount it. Also nice that they'r emade of glass-filled Nylon for some extra strength on the threads, vs just standard HDPE or other plastic.
I love how each gauge has an awesome package of neat, simple wiring...
Pretty sweet OEM-style wiring/connector and OEM temperature sensor, at least I'm pretty sure it's the exact same as the LS temp sensor...
Pretty professional looking oil sensor too...
Anyways, I was going to save all these pics for when I completed the gauge panel, but school has been consuming my time, so I guess I'll call this update "Gauges Part I"...
The SpeedHut Revolution Series gauges...
Neat wiring, each gauge with its own mini harness...
Each gauge is super easy to dismantle partially or fully, depending on how you want to custom mount it. Also nice that they'r emade of glass-filled Nylon for some extra strength on the threads, vs just standard HDPE or other plastic.
I love how each gauge has an awesome package of neat, simple wiring...
Pretty sweet OEM-style wiring/connector and OEM temperature sensor, at least I'm pretty sure it's the exact same as the LS temp sensor...
Pretty professional looking oil sensor too...
Last edited by frojoe; 12-29-2017 at 02:25 PM.
07-20-2010, 12:05 AM
#292
I love how these gauges look, they're modern & performance styling without being super ricey or euro, or Autometers haha.
I'm not a huge fan of the typical Covan's replacement panel and generic Autometer 3 3/8" gauges mounted flat, so just to be a bit different I'm reusing the stock panel but chopping it up a bit and plan on making an insert with a 3D staggered-effect setup for these gauges using tubes. To start, here is a basic 2D layout of the insert panel...
I'm not a huge fan of the typical Covan's replacement panel and generic Autometer 3 3/8" gauges mounted flat, so just to be a bit different I'm reusing the stock panel but chopping it up a bit and plan on making an insert with a 3D staggered-effect setup for these gauges using tubes. To start, here is a basic 2D layout of the insert panel...
07-20-2010, 10:39 AM
#295
Stop what you are doing with those gauges right meow. Return the speedo and have them upgrade it to a GPS unit. I just upgraded mine for the GTO because the pulse generator hit the shift forks. It was the best $80 I've spent. I promise you you will not regret it. It makes installation sooo much simpler (so easy a Canadian could do it). No need to run wires to the ecm, no need to f*ck around trying to get it calibrated, and no worries if you change gears/tires. And I got those exact gauges (albeit sans the boost gauge, and in mph).
I seriously can't say enough good things about those gauges. My only issue is the fuel gauge is setup for something completely different than the 0-90Ω that GM uses. I've been too lazy/scared to run her dry to get it set correctly.
I seriously can't say enough good things about those gauges. My only issue is the fuel gauge is setup for something completely different than the 0-90Ω that GM uses. I've been too lazy/scared to run her dry to get it set correctly.
07-20-2010, 12:57 PM
#297
hookemdevils22... Hmm meow you've got me really re-considering this. I was thinking that it could be hooked up directly to the VSS in my T56, no? All the extra features are really cool, but I can't decide if they're worth it for the hassle of returning + the extra cost. Also, do you have to pay anything annually for the GPS hook-up?
Bobby G... The gauges were $812 USD for all those seen in the pics, which is fairly expensive, but I don't think it's unreasonable considering the quality and style of them. All gauges are full-sweep, electric steppermotor, completely customizable in colors, fonts, etc. I have 4" tach/speedo, 2 5/8" boost, and the rest are 2 1/16".
Bobby G... The gauges were $812 USD for all those seen in the pics, which is fairly expensive, but I don't think it's unreasonable considering the quality and style of them. All gauges are full-sweep, electric steppermotor, completely customizable in colors, fonts, etc. I have 4" tach/speedo, 2 5/8" boost, and the rest are 2 1/16".
07-20-2010, 03:50 PM
#298
EDIT: Just checked the SH website - they don't offer the gps units in metric. Sorry for getting your hopes up (unless you call them and ask...)
I guess for you it would be more of a hassle, what with shipping to the States, but I had to return the tach anyway due to issues with the HEI in the goat (covered under warranty). Shipping was next to nothing, since they're a state away.
However, you should be able to hook up the speedo to the VSS with little problem. I just know many a person (myself included) that have had to go through the hassle of making sure to tap into the right place (esp important with auto trans), then setup. At least the Revolutions are easier to setup than competitors (so they claim). But consider some of the features of a GPS unit:
-0-60 time and distance
-1/4 mile time
-current elevation
-current speed in LED readout (in addition to analog)
-GPS clock
-current direction heading
-odometer and resettable trip meter
-2-3 second power-up
-No annual subscription (at least, they didn't mention it)
But you probably shouldn't go that route, cuz then you'd be copying my idea (not that I copied yours first or anything
)
I guess for you it would be more of a hassle, what with shipping to the States, but I had to return the tach anyway due to issues with the HEI in the goat (covered under warranty). Shipping was next to nothing, since they're a state away.
However, you should be able to hook up the speedo to the VSS with little problem. I just know many a person (myself included) that have had to go through the hassle of making sure to tap into the right place (esp important with auto trans), then setup. At least the Revolutions are easier to setup than competitors (so they claim). But consider some of the features of a GPS unit:
-0-60 time and distance
-1/4 mile time
-current elevation
-current speed in LED readout (in addition to analog)
-GPS clock
-current direction heading
-odometer and resettable trip meter
-2-3 second power-up
-No annual subscription (at least, they didn't mention it)
But you probably shouldn't go that route, cuz then you'd be copying my idea (not that I copied yours first or anything
)
07-20-2010, 05:02 PM
#299
I love the gauges and I like the layout you've come up with, but have you checked to make sure you can see your tach & speedo from the driver's seat? I think in my Nova with my steering wheel and driving position, I'd have a clear view of the boost gauge, but my hands & steering wheel might be in the way of the others.
07-20-2010, 05:28 PM
#300
hookemdevils... I checked this morning (damn you for planting the seed of doubt...) and they do actually have them in GPS km/h, with or without turn signals & high-beams, I just had to search for them under the "Revolutions Series > All Speedometers"... they're in there. I think I'll stick to what I have, I have one of those Gsport g meters anyways, and I probably don't actually need all the extra fancy stuff, plus I really wouldn't want to step on your toes with it.
-TheBandit-... I'm very used to hardly being able to see gauges in any car due to my height, the steering wheel rim from 10 to 2 always blocks my idiot lights and/or tach/speed in several different cars I've driven, but I do remember being able to so almost the entire width of the stock rectangular speedo with a 14.5" OEM wheel due to the wheel being angled/positioned high. Also, with the 4" tach/speedo, there really isn't anymore room to bring them closer to center due to the steering column hump in the dash...
-TheBandit-... I'm very used to hardly being able to see gauges in any car due to my height, the steering wheel rim from 10 to 2 always blocks my idiot lights and/or tach/speed in several different cars I've driven, but I do remember being able to so almost the entire width of the stock rectangular speedo with a 14.5" OEM wheel due to the wheel being angled/positioned high. Also, with the 4" tach/speedo, there really isn't anymore room to bring them closer to center due to the steering column hump in the dash...