-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Wait so oil pressure is okay now with a new pump? What have you been up to since the front end was all torn apart? Did you just reassemble with a new pump or have you made any changes? What's the new oil pressure?

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

About 35psi cold and 25psi warm with oil that I suspect has some gas in it due to the number of these stupid rich non-start putter out incidents. Re-hooked up the electric oil pressure gauge so I can see the pressure spike as I dab the throttle, which I'll do tonight. All I can figure is the tolerance on the bearings has really opened up due to high mileage. I can't remember what the mileage of the thing was when I got it maybe 5 years ago. Either way if I want better pressure it would likely mean full teardown, so I'm going to drive the ******* thing and throw caution to the wind. That is if I can ever get it to start reliably from one day to the next.

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

Just a suggestion (and I am almost sure you have) but check ALL the grounds for the engine to frame, frame to body, body to battery, etc.

Also, check all the grounds in the wiring harness on the engine.
I had a spudder due to a ground wire that had paint on it.
Made a BIG difference cleaning the connector and tightening it down.

Also, if you would like, I can send you my tune from my car.
Just change your injectors and you will be close.
Should run better then what you are dealing with right now.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

I've already checked all the grounds but will again tonight. Just don't get why it seems to "forget" the tune.

Your tune would be a HUGE help, I'll PM you my email adress. If nothing else, to just compare all the other miscellaneous parts to make sure I haven't changed something funky that I shouldn't have.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

How about the Batt 12v+ from the battery, it is should stay hot all the time.. (just a thought, one more thing to check) ?

It is possible that the PCM memory/board is bad ? do you have access to another one ?

BC

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Its running fine is the only thing that kinda of rules that idea out. It really only deals with the idle relearn tables when you kill 12 volts to the orange wire(I believe thats the constant 12volt one)

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

12+ from battery is hot all the time because with the HPtuners module plugged into only to the OBDII port, the green "connected" light is lit regardless of the position the key is in.

One thing that is curuious that I noticed last night is that the computer does not leave the fans on after shutoff. To test it I specifically set the fan on speed to 40*C and off to 35*C, and runtime to 15seconds, and once the key leaves Run and engine stops, fans shut off. Going to double check my fan relay wiring tonight, but I believe it was relay always hot for source power and 1 side of the switch, and then the relay is activated via switchable ground (from PCM). Only problem I could think is if the power for the switchable ground is also switched so only hot when key is in Run, but I'm pretty sure both relay suuply powers are straight from the battery.

And the MIL light isn't working, even when I test it thru HPtuners, and the wiring is stock Speartech harness, all I did was extend it and made SURE that I kept the polarity the same (I believe it's important for these diode-like LED's?). I'll snip and re-wire it tonight opposite.. maybe the LED was accidently wired in backwards from Speartech.

And I'm getting a VSS circuit voltage DTC, but that's not my biggest problem right now I don't think.

**** just won't end!

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Couple of ideas....

Sounds like the +12v referred to was to the PCM, not the OBDII port, those two are not the same wire.....hence your fans not running, and you losing your tune, when you kill the car.

Other idea.....when you set up your tune, try to do a "write entire" to overwrite ALL changes. I have had HP Tuners do some quirky ****, and not take the small things like gear changes etc. Once you do a write entire, go back and see if your tables stayed the way you changed them. Just thinking out loud here.


T,

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Good point, but my Speartech harness had only two power wires, 12V+ constant and switchable 12V+. Although, that thought did run through my head, might be the sensible reason for why computer can turn on the fans in Run but can't keep them on when in Off.

I have been doing Calibration Writes this whole time, haven't done a Write Entire since I went over to Speed Density, but I'll give that a shot too.

ChacagoTDP sent me his tune and I noticed I had some Primary and Secondary Fuel Prime tables zero'd out where his had numbers. I don't remember ever zero'ing those tables, but thinking maybe this had an effect.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

This is the BS i'm dealing with.

Long term fuel trims (LTFT's) are disabled.

Running in closed loop.

As the O2 sensors warm up and lean out the STFT's are correspondingly pulling a lot of fuel. This is with an injector flowrate value of 4.90 which I've previously described as being theoretically too small given the injector data from the injector website, however it appeared to work. I wonder if I change the injector flowrates back to the formula-correct 6.32 if the STFT's would lean out much less and there would be less flooding during this weird random initially-too-rich non-catch start. What I really need to do is find out for certain what these injectors actually flow at a given pressure.

Non-catch start (note high injector pulse time in red and orange lines in the 4th window down)...



Catching start (initially rich but leans out and idles perfectly at 650rpm and 14.5ish AFR)...

Marktainium

You need to investigate that high MAP reading. Thats why it's dumping fuel in. I also see that where the car is idling correctly your stft's are maxed out at -25% go to your fuel table and lean those cells out. The inconsiostency on startup looks like it may be because of a bad MAP reading. Question is what is causing it? I believe the MAP is on a 5 volt input, is it possible that the voltage there is too high? if it was 12v then theoretically the reading could be over double the correct reading... I think I would re-create the no start, and then without removing power, check the voltage at the MAP input. should be 5v, see what you get. Just an idea...

350SS

iTrader: (38)

shouldn't you run open loop until you get your ve table dialed in?

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Mark.. note the WB AFR being pinned at the richest it could read, 10.0:1, as the engine ran for 15-20 seconds, the STFT's went to -25% (as I'm assuming the excess gas burned off) and then tappered down to oscillating between -5% and -7% when bouncing between 14.5-15:1 AFR.. so I don't think the injectors are terribly off, likely just error between the fuel pressure and values entered for injector flowrate.. easily adjustable. I like your suggestion about the MAP voltage. I can't see why it'd be getting something other than the 5V signal, but it's a good thing I'll check and I really can't fathom why it starts reading such a high pressure.

Regarding open loop.. do I want this when I'm just trying to nail an initial idle? I'm still so new at the this haha.. I'm starting to get confused by reading so much on the internets, I can't remember what I am and am not supposed to do and the proper order...

On another note, pulled the oil again, smelled a bit of gas but not nearly as bad as before, could explain the drop in oil pressure still once things get heated up and the gas is mixed around in the oil. Just need to stop flooding the cylinders somehow.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

I would say run open loop, that way when you make changes you can see the effects without the computer making changes and then you can't tell which one is causing issues. I wouldn't worry about the startup characteristics right away (other than if it is priming with so much fuel that it will cause damage then you do need to pull fuel there) but instead just get it up to temperature and idling and try to achieve a consitent afr by making changes to the ve only where it is idling then you can go from there.

The MAP situation does need to be sorted out first though. Is it a 1 or 2 bar sensor and if 2 bar did you rescale that table?

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

350SS... Thanks for the help. The MAP is 2bar, with max pressure & the offset values entered, and the MAP tables reflect accordingly

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Are there any good tuners in the area that could help you troubleshoot this? For me it would be worth paying someone to help before grenading something trying to figure it out on my own.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

couple things...

1) if the SES LED was wired backwards it will burn out. you must get a new one. I know this from experience.

2) the ECM should hold a tune regardless of whether it gets constant power or not. otherwise mail-order tunes wouldn't work very well.

man, I feel your pain. I'm currently going through a TBI'd big block that doesn't get a signal to the fuel pump in a buddy's Jeep pickup. What a nightmare.

camarozz383

iTrader: (3)

hey nice job, and really nice car, can you tell me where you got your longer wheel studs? thanks

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

I got the longer studs from a local performance store, they're just standard 1/2" ARP 3" screw-in studs..

I haven't been working on the car much, just fitting the fenders, hood, need to make some brackets for the hoodpins since the intercooler location doesn't allow a stock hood latch. Made a oil breather/catch can. A line comes from each valve cover and has a seperate "level" of the can, and each level has steel wool trapped in it to hopefully catch oil particles in the air better then let them drop into the bottom, where there's some volume for it to accumulate and a petcock to drain. Might be a bit overkill, or might not even do anything, but at least only took a couple hours to make...



Reducing the wall thickness to make it a bit nicer to weld..



Practicing alum which I hadn't done in months, crossed out bead isn't mine...

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Nice work. you going to market them now ! I'd buy one ! are you going to put some tabs on to mount or make a bracket and clamp it on ?

Yeah. .my Nova project stalls from time to time.. I've got no $$ for parts and lazy to clean other parts.. but it will get done sooner or later.. Keep at it..!

BC