LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
as well as the car-to-car variance can get pretty decent I bet.
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Haha Greg, I would've loved to join the cruise rain or shine, but I have an excuse, and at least I used the rainy weather to get some 'garage chores' done!
Made more progress. In one day, went from rough-cut-out of driver side stock wheel tub to a fully finish-trimmed area, just awaiting wire-wheel cleaning, framerail gusset welded in, and then final install and spot weld together.
Made more progress. In one day, went from rough-cut-out of driver side stock wheel tub to a fully finish-trimmed area, just awaiting wire-wheel cleaning, framerail gusset welded in, and then final install and spot weld together.
Haha Greg, I would've loved to join the cruise rain or shine, but I have an excuse, and at least I used the rainy weather to get some 'garage chores' done!
Made more progress. In one day, went from rough-cut-out of driver side stock wheel tub to a fully finish-trimmed area, just awaiting wire-wheel cleaning, framerail gusset welded in, and then final install and spot weld together.
Made more progress. In one day, went from rough-cut-out of driver side stock wheel tub to a fully finish-trimmed area, just awaiting wire-wheel cleaning, framerail gusset welded in, and then final install and spot weld together.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
That gap at the bottom is present with the flange flush as well as the arch of the fender tub flush (altho in that pic it's just rough mocked, not full flush). Have to make a closeup piece to cover that gap as well as cover about 6" below the bottom of the DSE fender, to close up the quarterpanel area behind the wheel. Kind of surprising DSE doesn't supply a template for this closeout piece.. maybe I just cut out more than I was supposed to behind the wheel and below the trunk pan.. will never know as DSE doesn't clarify that area at all in their instructions.
On another note, passenger side is fully welded in and awaiting seam sealer and paint tomorrow.
On another note, passenger side is fully welded in and awaiting seam sealer and paint tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
The sealant I'm using is a Permatex body sealant, supposed to be quite flexible when dry. For paint, going to use auto store wheel well underlining, don't know too much about it but the wheel tubs will get covered in rubber and dirt anyways.
After a lot of hammering and fitment it does look at home all welded in there. I've noticed that the rear half of the flange sits nice and flush with the existing factory [outer] tub flange, but the front half (essentially from the seat/trunk bulkhead forward) there was a consistent 1/4" to 3/8" gap that I had to hammer/stretch flush in order to spot weld the DSE flange. This was consistent on driver and passenger side DSE tubs, so not sure if I was cutting incorrectly or if the DSE tub is stamped slightly off.
After a lot of hammering and fitment it does look at home all welded in there. I've noticed that the rear half of the flange sits nice and flush with the existing factory [outer] tub flange, but the front half (essentially from the seat/trunk bulkhead forward) there was a consistent 1/4" to 3/8" gap that I had to hammer/stretch flush in order to spot weld the DSE flange. This was consistent on driver and passenger side DSE tubs, so not sure if I was cutting incorrectly or if the DSE tub is stamped slightly off.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
After a total of probably 30 sweaty hours into it to get it to this point (passenger side done, driver side needs weld in of 1 closeout panel then wheel tub is good to go in).. I would never do this or any other sheetmetal work for another person (even if paid), and I'd be borderline on doing it again to a car I owned in the future. Looking forward to just driving it already, hah.
And Mark, you missed a good thighmaster session yesterday...
And Mark, you missed a good thighmaster session yesterday...
I would never do this or any other sheetmetal work for another person (even if paid), and I'd be borderline on doing it again to a car I owned in the future.
not sure if I was cutting incorrectly or if the DSE tub is stamped slightly off.
I'm planning to paint my trunk floor and under the tubs with some Rust-Oleum hammertone black (maybe cover the underside with some spray-on undercoating I have), as I had to fill up holes I've drilled over the years. Plus it should help hide the patches. I had good results doing the cabin with their satin black. Something to think about...
Last edited by hookemdevils22; May 7, 2013 at 09:46 AM.
Something to check out if you haven't already. Go to pro-touring and look at 72novadrivers build thread and check out his trunk. It's got Gator bedliner sprayed in it and then trunk paint over that, finished with a clear. Really nice.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
I do like Bill Utley's Nova trunk finish (constant grey, looks hard coat), and I'd definitely consider doing that if the whole trunk was bare metal. In it's previous life, the car had a massive sound system in it so the only thing no longer wrapped in Dynamat is the new DSE tubs, so I think I'll just etch & spray semi-matte black on them, to give a factory appearance.