LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
In the end it did add up to a bit more than I was hoping, but oh well. $1500 for Dominator ECU, $300 for the main harness, $100 for injector sub harness, $100 for DBW sub harness, $100 for Holley-specific WB sensor, $100 for boost solenoid, $100 for boost sensor. I could've fiddled and pinned in my existing Innovate standalone WB controller, and fiddled/coded my Speedhut boost sensor to work with the ECU to save some money, but in the end I decided I didn't want to introduce potential errors with custom settings for WB and boost control, and potentially compromise the precision of the system for the sake of saving $200, since the whole reason I shelled out all this cash for a new setup was for a pre-configured "happy" whole system.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Tuning-wise.. yes. I've been slammed at work, been doing 10-12, 12+ hour days, weekends, only been able to get to the garage once in the last 3 or so weeks. Two week work trip coming up too. When I get back I'm going to take a couple days off work and just do full garage days, I'm starting to lose my marbles not being able to wrench and be "at peace" in the garage..
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Made it to Asia and back without pulling a 370, so wrapped up (literally) the harness tonight. If I have enough energy tomorrow night might go and install it so I can mock up Holley ECU holding bracket. Either way I'll be in the garage on Saturday doing the cam swap and rad install.
Happy to have all the plugs at their neat & proper minimum required lengths and branch locations. Other than running out of big-diameter loom, almost looks like it came this way..
Happy to have all the plugs at their neat & proper minimum required lengths and branch locations. Other than running out of big-diameter loom, almost looks like it came this way..
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,034
Likes: 663
Kilacam,
Feel free to send it to Joe. He'll be done with his hanses soon, so he'll have all sorts of free time. lol.
Joe,
I lined you up a probono job to keep you kinda busy. Oh yeah………Keep up the good work!!!
Feel free to send it to Joe. He'll be done with his hanses soon, so he'll have all sorts of free time. lol.
Joe,
I lined you up a probono job to keep you kinda busy. Oh yeah………Keep up the good work!!!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Haha, funny guys. I'm definitely running out of projects, that's for sure.
Started the ECU bracket yesterday, going to mock it up in the car today to figure out how to orient the to-body support struts. It'll be mounted vertically, with plugs pointing down, between the heaterbox and the glovebox. This ECU is massive.. gotta be about 13" long and a good 7 or 8 lbs.
Started the ECU bracket yesterday, going to mock it up in the car today to figure out how to orient the to-body support struts. It'll be mounted vertically, with plugs pointing down, between the heaterbox and the glovebox. This ECU is massive.. gotta be about 13" long and a good 7 or 8 lbs.
That's quite a structure for supporting an ECU. Why is this thing so heavy? Did they pot the whole thing? I think the lack of cooling fins is interesting. Is it fan cooled?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
The supporting bracket isn't too crazy.. 3/4" rectangular alu tube with 0.065" wall.. very light. The overall size of the ECU is likely due to all the extra auxiliary plugs, and their required circuit board(s), which requires bigger alu case, which requires more filling, etc.. slippery slope. It's slim so it'll tuck nicely the way I want it to.. trick will be getting the angles of supporting struts right to re-use some existing holes under the dash.
I knew my current/old rad was on the small side, but forgot how much so.. quite surprising it was even able to keep this thing cool at all..
I knew my current/old rad was on the small side, but forgot how much so.. quite surprising it was even able to keep this thing cool at all..
Funny I have a similar photo from when I put my Griffen on about 9 years ago. It is one thick SOB! I had to trim the factory rubber mounts a lot to get it to sit in place, but otherwise never had any issues and could use a stock radiator if I were in a bind.
Is the different location of the radiator outlet going to be a problem for where you've placed your exhaust and intake tubing?
Is the different location of the radiator outlet going to be a problem for where you've placed your exhaust and intake tubing?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
The Griffin rad has a higher top left outlet and lower bottom inlet, so if the old setup was in a "neutral position", I'm going to have to shift the new rad down so that the top left outlet still tucks under my intercooler ->throttlebody charge pipe, but not so low that the hose to the bottom left inlet is at a crazy angle, or that my large single (14" I think?) fan hits my turbo hot side cross-over pipe. Will be a lot of trial test fitting. Dual 10" fans might be the easiest way to go so I can slam the rad down low and not worry about the edge of a large single fan's shroud coming close to or hitting the heat shield on my turbo cross-over pipe. Also I'll have to angle cut/weld the top left outlet to better redirect it. Arg
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
The old rad is a '94 S10 unit, and a direct-fit thicker aftermarket one is $300-400 depending on the maker, versus this universal (and a slightly smaller overall width, which I was looking for) Griffin unit which was $179. Seemed like an ok tradeoff for me.. anywayS, I'll make it work.. nothing that I shouldn't already be used to...
I have the same Griffin I think...I ended up choping the bottom outlet and welding on a tight radius pointed up to clean my hot side....I might even cut the top in the near future if I go with a 83 BW...but I know I shouldnt...