A4 or M6...hmm
#1
A4 or M6...hmm
What do you guys think? I currently have an A4 but I'm torn if I want to build it up more or throw what I've done away (which is only a 3500 stall) and build up a T56 for it.
Opinions?
Opinions?
#2
What do you personally want? I've always wanted a M6, so I built it.
Don't let someone else tell you what you want, that is why I say what do you feel you want to do.
Don't let someone else tell you what you want, that is why I say what do you feel you want to do.
Last edited by the_merv; 01-05-2009 at 09:35 AM.
#5
Just like the other guys said, it's up to you.
You can make a strong argument for the merits of either A4 or M6.
Personally, I would have to say the M6 is best suited to a convertible if you get off on engine sound.
When the top is down, the driver can regulate the mechanical symphony blasting out of the pipes if you have an M6. You choose the track:
1) burbling along a country road in 6th at 1200 rpm.
2) screaming past 6000 rpm in 2nd & 3rd.
3) letting off on overrun just so you can stab it again.
If you treat your car like it's a toy for the street, I would recommend going for the M6.
You can make a strong argument for the merits of either A4 or M6.
Personally, I would have to say the M6 is best suited to a convertible if you get off on engine sound.
When the top is down, the driver can regulate the mechanical symphony blasting out of the pipes if you have an M6. You choose the track:
1) burbling along a country road in 6th at 1200 rpm.
2) screaming past 6000 rpm in 2nd & 3rd.
3) letting off on overrun just so you can stab it again.
If you treat your car like it's a toy for the street, I would recommend going for the M6.
#6
The conversion should be able to be done for far less than $5k unless you are looking to buy a built T-56. Guys will swap a T-56 & Clutch for your A4 and stall if they are in good condition. Labor to swap could be $1k. With the M6, you'll need a gear swap too. 2.73s would suck and 3.23s aren't much fun either.
I've had both in a vert. Just depends upon how you will use the car.
A4 = good drag racer and daily driver in stop and go traffic.
M6 = roll racing and just out goofing around with the car.
I've had both in a vert. Just depends upon how you will use the car.
A4 = good drag racer and daily driver in stop and go traffic.
M6 = roll racing and just out goofing around with the car.
#7
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#8
I can't see $5K for a T56 swap, I have a hair under $3K into mine, and $970 of that is the Clutch Kit, $1300 is the T56, the rest is the Slave & LPP Remote Bleeder, Shifter & ****, and the Petals, Center Console Piece, Hydraulics, and Bolts.
#9
Thanks guys its been awhile since I reengaged this idea, and when I get home from this deployment I'm thinking about sinking my teeth into it for the M6. Car will be in a major city, but I've always wanted a M6 in this car.
#11
well in bone stock form the stick cars will usually be quicker but once you add a stall and sticky tires to an auto it will own most sticks unless the stick driver is a REALLY GOOD driver. Also autos are much more consistant at the track and you dont have to worry about missed shifts
#12
Good times can be acheived with a manual trans when you are driving someone else's car - such as a magazine writer jonesing for good copy.
#13
Stock converters always give you low STR and
low stall speed, guaranteeing you won't see the
powerband at launch or half of every gear that
follows.
A well set up automatic will do what your left
foot and right hand would, only you don't have
to think about it or set down the Big Gulp.
But some folks get off on the process as much
as the result.
low stall speed, guaranteeing you won't see the
powerband at launch or half of every gear that
follows.
A well set up automatic will do what your left
foot and right hand would, only you don't have
to think about it or set down the Big Gulp.
But some folks get off on the process as much
as the result.