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Old May 16, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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hey guys, i posted a similar thread i the suspension section abd figured u guys could help too!! i want to get the eibach pro-kit. My z28 has the stock wheels and the stock body kit on it and the kit will drop it 1.5" in the front and 1.3" in the back. does anybody else have this setup on thier z28 or a tras am with the stock wheels and body kit?
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Old May 24, 2006 | 06:12 PM
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hey wassup, heres something to know from wat i learn.the verts all more heavy then the hartops so the vert with ls1 prokit will bottom out in the back alot.now if u get the lt1 prokit you'll have less problems.now for the ultimate upgrade problems free.get the lt1 prokit for the front and the bmr springs for the rear and remove the rear spring hat and u have a nice drop and no bottoming out problems
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Old May 24, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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now if u get the lt1 prokit you'll have less problems.now for the ultimate upgrade problems free.get the lt1 prokit for the front and the bmr springs for the rear and remove the rear spring hat and u have a nice drop and no bottoming out problems

I think the LT1 pro-kit uses the same rear spring as the LS1. The only difference should be that the LT1 kit has a taller front spring. I'm pretty sure that your advice might have an adverse effect.

One option that worked well for me in the past was Hotchkis springs with a coil cut out of the front in conjunction with SLP Bilsteins shocks.

Or you could try the Eibach's in the front and keep the factory rears, but remove the rubber isolater at the rear. I ran my last SS that way for about year with no problems or annoying noises. And that was with Bilsteins as well.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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Just cut the factory rear coils till you get the right height..1/4 coil at a time.its really very simple and dont have to cut much
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Old May 26, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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hmm good advice as well but isnt cutting the poor mans way to lowering a car?
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Old May 26, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MiaSSmaro98
hmm good advice as well but isnt cutting the poor mans way to lowering a car?
Sure.... but some might argue that the Camaro is just a poor mans Corvette.
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Old May 26, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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thats a good one
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Cutting the stock rear springs is actually a good idea. They have a rate of 110-115lb per inch. Every coil is worth about 20lbs. So cutting a half a coil will increase the rate 10lbs. This is a good thing as the factory rates are just too soft. To go stiffer while limiting the drop, you can use a combination of cutting and metal spacers in the springs. If you know how to do the calculations you can get just about whatever drop and spring rate you want. I personally have a 160lb rate in the rear of my non convertible along with the Koni SA shocks. 150 felt too soft and allowed more lean and more compression than I felt I needed, 170 was great for a performance feel, but a bit too stiff on the bumps for everyday driving, so 160 was just the right rate for me. All you need to cut them is a cutting disc mado for metal and a drill or similar tool to mount it in. Don't even think about a hacksaw.

BTW, the Pro-kits are well known for being too low in the rear. If you don't have the stock rear springs or just don't want to cut on them, then just get some metal spacers and install then into the coils 180* apart and on the same coil somewhere in the middle of the spring. 2 spacers will effectively deaden 1 coil, raise the ride height, and increase the spring rate. All good things for our cars.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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if u cut the spring doesnt that effect the integrity of it? also, im runnin sportlines on my 98 vert with t/d's and have very little bottoming out issues.....
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by satownz28
if u cut the spring doesnt that effect the integrity of it?
Not at all. Applying lots of heat can effect the tensile strength, maybe that it what you are thinking of. It's never a good idea to cut springs with a torch. Just use a rotary cutoff wheel on a air powered die grinder or pick up a $30-$40 4.5" 11Krpm electric angle grinder with some cutoff wheels.
I picked up one of these:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...7AG&lpage=none
With a thin metal cutting disc it will slice through a spring with ease and with little heat.
Originally Posted by satownz28
also, im runnin sportlines on my 98 vert with t/d's and have very little bottoming out issues.....
I'm not sure what t/d's are. Are you going by the feel of the car or are you measuring travel? Keep in mind even a stock suspension is using the bumpstops all the time. Lowering the car with stiffer springs will continue to use the bumpstops. The trick is to not fully compress the bumpstops to the point they get so stiff the ride suffers or the grip suffers in the corners. If you can't really feel the bumpstops in a dip in the road then your probably OK.

Here's some ride height data if anyone is interested.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...12#post4942812
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gyrene2003
hey guys, i posted a similar thread i the suspension section abd figured u guys could help too!! i want to get the eibach pro-kit. My z28 has the stock wheels and the stock body kit on it and the kit will drop it 1.5" in the front and 1.3" in the back. does anybody else have this setup on thier z28 or a tras am with the stock wheels and body kit?
I have the GMMG Pro-Kit on my 'vert. Absolutely no problems at all ! !





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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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You have a LT1. From what I gathered from the conversation the wieght diff is their trying to compensate for that's why theyre mixing and matching springs. If I may suggest why not go adjustable coilover using springs and shocks rated for the way youre going to drive the car?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
If I may suggest why not go adjustable coilover using springs and shocks rated for the way youre going to drive the car?
That's what I'm suggesting in post #8 except you don't really need the adjusting sleeves. In the front I recommend the Ground Control coilover conversions, but they are a bit pricey at $200. Still, highly recommended as you can fine tune the ride height to prevent scraping or if you have headers you can adjust it to just miss scraping on them. Plus you get whatever spring rate you want.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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I agree.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
You have a LT1. From what I gathered from the conversation the wieght diff is their trying to compensate for that's why theyre mixing and matching springs. If I may suggest why not go adjustable coilover using springs and shocks rated for the way youre going to drive the car?
The springs on my '97 LT1 are the SAME EXACT springs as on my '02 LS6 ZL1. We have installed these springs on several '00, '01 and '02 Camaros.
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