I have a 2000 FRC corvette that I am fixing to do a heads/cam swap that should make close to 450rwhp. I want to put a 100 shot on top of it and was wondering if my factory fuel pump would be able to supply enough fuel. I also have a set of 42 lb ford green tops that were on my previous car and ran for maybe 30 minutes before I took them off. They have been sitting for about a year and I am wondering if I need to do anything to them or can I just put them in and go?

 

A wet kit maybe.. Its gonna be close, I would go ahead and put pumps in it

 

it doesnt matter if its wet or dry, fuel is fuel. since you have a 2000, i would go ahead and do a ractronix setup and call it a day. to answer your question i would not do it, but then again im **** as hell.

 

+1 On the racetronix with PNP voltage regulator. Much better to be safe then sorry.

 

The wet is safer...+ It puts more strain on the pumps going dry IMO

 

Just upgrade the pump and be worry free. Its better to have a little too much then not quite enough.

 

how do you figure? if you are getting the same a/f it doesnt matter if its wet or dry.

 

h/c cam only you will be fine, but you are going to need a pump with the nitrous.

 

All Im sayin man... If he puts a good head/Cam/Headers and get all the power out of the combo and then puts a 100 Shot.. I would say its gonna be right about at 100% Duty Cycle.

Iv got a Trick-Flow heads with a 646Lift cam and Kooks 1 7/8 Headers. So, My car is Maxxed out on the stock pumps. 540RWHP

So, My car couldnt handle a 25shot with-out blowing up.. Im going to put a stand alone on it soon and Spray 150-175shot threw a Auto

 

Very Well Put..

 

yeah def need a 255 at least for prob just the head and cam

 

i have heads,cam,nos i ran a racetronix fuel pump and ford svo 34# red top injectors! Nice and easy to tune and plenty of fuel!

 

As was said, wet or dry the fuel pump needs the same consideration. My buddy is making over 700rwhp on the stock C5 Z06 with a BAP only (true story and currently the fastest stock long block ls6 with a 9.7 ET and on the C5 Z06 Fast list). Our pumps are generally considered good to the 550 range, stock fuel system, that is with a good low mile pump. What I did was swap out the stock Walbro pump for a Racetronics Walbro (yes, they are different Walbros, can explain?) and made my own hot wire kit. With the correct fuel system mods (return and reg at the rails) this system can support 700 or more rwhp.

I currently run a Racetronics and hot wire, a return and reg at the rails, green top 42lb injectors and have hit 644rwhp at just slightly below 80% duty cycle and a 200hp dry shot. The rec for only going to 80% on the injectors is more of a longevity issue. Those of us that only stress the injectors for 10 seconds at a time certainly can go over 80% and many of us do so with no ill effects.

So you have a couple options, but the facts are that you can easily supply your spray fuel needs at not much of a cost, depending on how you go about it. I do have a write on scaling your new injectors and it is really simple for anyone. Also, i have a detailed fuel system upgrade how to, that covers all we touched on and more, one for Vettes and one for F-bods. It includes pictures and more in depth details on why/how/when/where.

My newest fuel system, we added an in-line Bosch pump that only activates when spraying. No need to have it running n/a and heat up the fuel. Another option for adding fuel capacity and not needing a stand alone fuel tank. My contention is why not upgrade the fuel system to handle all future n/a needs along with spray needs or boost needs. No need for the dated tech of the stand alone, not to mention the extra cost. This system will handle north of 900/1000rwhp and I am heading for 800rwhp with the dry shot and larger injectors. A very cost effective alternative, not to mention an easy way to run full race gas and change back to pump gas after racing. No watered down octane rating like the stand alone promotes.

E-mail me with your Addy if you would like the write-ups. I can't direct link them here anymore as I am not currently a sponsor on this site, but would love to share some insight if you want.
Robert

EDIT: The wet is safer thing is not true what so ever. Now if your talking an old school dated dry nozzle kit, there might be a slight argument. However, with latest advancements in the dry tech, it can not hold any water what so ever. All issues of past dry problems have been addressed. We can now, control any sized dry hit, run nit through a plate after the MAF, run it direct port on stock intakes, run it progressive, have a 100% repeatable a/f ratio every run, pull timing and all using the stock PCM and injectors of the correct size. Many do not know about the advancements the last year or so. the dry hit is modern tech for modern high tech cars. the wet will work, but so many are finding that the dry has numerous benefits. Remember guys, it is not 1985 any longer and high technology is our Friend.

Here's the latest 3 stage dry all running through the stock PCM. Stage one is DP dry, and 2nd and 3rd stages are on the plate all after the MAF.

 

Hey thanks for the info Robert. Yeah definitely send me those wright ups. My e-mail is mchdg86@yahoo.com

 

How many miles on your car? My pump showed signs of stress with a lot less power than others in this thread with 85k on the clock.

 

My car only has 33K on clock.

 

That's why many just change out to the better racetronics Walbro. also don't forget the easy mod of adding a return and reg at the rails and hot wire kit.
Robert

 

I have decided to go ahead and get a racetronics pump. Also can I just install a set of injectors I have that have been sitting in a tool drawer for almost a year?

 

sure if they were good when they went into the drawer they should still be fine.
Robert