car will not start just clicks
#2
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If it's anything like my 3rd gen was, it was a tight location. Of course I didn't have longtubes, but we had to loosen my y-pipe to move it to get to the starter. It was a fun afternoon in my friends driveway, cause that's where it finally gave up.
Hope it's not too hard for you though. GL.
Hope it's not too hard for you though. GL.
#4
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word.
kill battery, if you CANNOT WIGGLE your way in there some way, some how,...
then drop X pipe, jus enough to where you can remove the header collector out of it,...then (i'd remove your spark plugs to avoid cracking them but,..thats just an advisory,..not something you MUST do but, I would) remove all header bolts except the furthest forward,... you should be able to now let the header hand enough, to remove the starter.
MAKE SURE you don't over tighten the small NUT on the starter...it's very easy to crack the stud off.... been there, broke that.
Have fun.
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Just curious....have you done any trouble shooting before you just go yankin out the stater?? Clicking usually means dead battery. Bad starter has a grinding sound. (in my experience)
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If it clicks once when you turn the key it's usually starter related.
If it clicks several times when you turn the key it's usually battery related.
FYI: If your's is one click then I bet the starter positive cable is loose on the stud. If you disconnect battery and then reach in from the bottom you should be able to tighten that 13mm nut and might save you the hassle of dropping that header.
You can also get a really long straight prybar or similar item and bang from the topside the top of the solenoid while someone turns the key at the same time and if it fires up then that's also a sign of starter issue. But the loose 13mm can cause that to happen as well.
If it clicks several times when you turn the key it's usually battery related.
FYI: If your's is one click then I bet the starter positive cable is loose on the stud. If you disconnect battery and then reach in from the bottom you should be able to tighten that 13mm nut and might save you the hassle of dropping that header.
You can also get a really long straight prybar or similar item and bang from the topside the top of the solenoid while someone turns the key at the same time and if it fires up then that's also a sign of starter issue. But the loose 13mm can cause that to happen as well.
#11
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The solenoid serves two purposes. Once youve determined that the battery voltage at the solenoid is sufficient and you here the click or clunk sound it could be the contactor plate in the back of the solenoid. The solenoid pulls the bendix to engage the rig gear and at a predetermine travel will hit the contact plate in the rear of the solenoid body. The contactor completes the pole circuit which allows the starter motor to run, thus starting the engine. It is common for the contactor to get fouled up with arc deposits and corrosion. Still requires the starter to be removed for repair.
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The solenoid serves two purposes. Once youve determined that the battery voltage at the solenoid is sufficient and you here the click or clunk sound it could be the contactor plate in the back of the solenoid. The solenoid pulls the bendix to engage the rig gear and at a predetermine travel will hit the contact plate in the rear of the solenoid body. The contactor completes the pole circuit which allows the starter motor to run, thus starting the engine. It is common for the contactor to get fouled up with arc deposits and corrosion. Still requires the starter to be removed for repair.