How much can a C5 ZO6s rear end take?
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The good news is, if you get the right clutch, and slip it properly to launch without a dead hook, the diff can take alot of rwhp. There are some boys running 600+ and it holds up.
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That can depend on the driver, clutch and psi of the tires\type. If the clutch can't be slipped, it can be disaster if you launch at higher rpm. I have seen them go with a 4000 rpm launch. Also wheel hop can really be bad news.
The good news is, if you get the right clutch, and slip it properly to launch without a dead hook, the diff can take alot of rwhp. There are some boys running 600+ and it holds up.
The good news is, if you get the right clutch, and slip it properly to launch without a dead hook, the diff can take alot of rwhp. There are some boys running 600+ and it holds up.
What are my other options to strengthen the IRS and how much would that cost?
Sorry, I have only owned F-Bods and a GTO before.
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Every track is different, so you will have to feel each one out to get your best launch. Hopefully you can get some 1-6 to 1.8 sixty foot times. Some guys are actually getting 1.3 sixty foot times, but it takes a ton of seat time.
I had my work done so long ago, I don't remember the cost of upgrading the output shafts. I'm sure someone will see your thread with some current prices
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If you dead hook, it can still possibly break at 2500 rpm. The trick is to run a higher than needed psi in the tires on first run...and slowly lower 1 psi per run if you are spinning too much. If you are dead hooking, add a couple psi per run till it spins some on launch. You want a constant spin out of the hole, but just a little. Also don't slam your gas to the floor. Try to slip the clutch a little and power thru the launch by pressing the gas peddle progressivly. If the motor bogs a little when the tires stop spinning, add a 1lb of air or raise your launch rpm some.
Every track is different, so you will have to feel each one out to get your best launch. Hopefully you can get some 1-6 to 1.8 sixty foot times. Some guys are actually getting 1.3 sixty foot times, but it takes a ton of seat time.
I had my work done so long ago, I don't remember the cost of upgrading the output shafts. I'm sure someone will see your thread with some current prices
Every track is different, so you will have to feel each one out to get your best launch. Hopefully you can get some 1-6 to 1.8 sixty foot times. Some guys are actually getting 1.3 sixty foot times, but it takes a ton of seat time.
I had my work done so long ago, I don't remember the cost of upgrading the output shafts. I'm sure someone will see your thread with some current prices
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I am a little confused on what you are trying to do with an IRS setup. Are you going to try and convert the rear setup in your Z28, or do you own a vette not listed in your sig? The IRS is ok if you swap out the output shafts for the hardened ones. Is the car an A4 or a M6. Run the tires at around 22-23 psi and practice some clutch control if M6. Roll it out and then get to work banging gears. If it's an A4 stall it up to 1500-2000 and smash the gas. Lower the tire pressure as the track allows for a small amount of tire spin. A 1.30 sixty is moving, and it will take excellent traction and a decent amount of power, you might settle for a 1.50 and a longer lasting rear. It's like a 10 bolt if you take it easy it will last, but 6K lunches will kill it if it hooks. There are plenty of high HP cars running IRS, just take it easy out of the hole.
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Clutch is key. This is the hands down, most important thing. When I got my used z06 I had a spec 3 clutch installed. The best 60ft I could get was a 1.68. Then this happened with just headers.
Sold my z06, got a C6. First pass on drag radials with the stock clutch was like a 1.72. Worked my way down to mid 1.4's, full street trim with completely stock stuff a non zo6 differential. I credit it to some seat time, but choosing the right clutch.
In my FRC build, I know what I'll be using. McLeod RXT.
Sold my z06, got a C6. First pass on drag radials with the stock clutch was like a 1.72. Worked my way down to mid 1.4's, full street trim with completely stock stuff a non zo6 differential. I credit it to some seat time, but choosing the right clutch.
In my FRC build, I know what I'll be using. McLeod RXT.
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I am a little confused on what you are trying to do with an IRS setup. Are you going to try and convert the rear setup in your Z28, or do you own a vette not listed in your sig? The IRS is ok if you swap out the output shafts for the hardened ones. Is the car an A4 or a M6. Run the tires at around 22-23 psi and practice some clutch control if M6. Roll it out and then get to work banging gears. If it's an A4 stall it up to 1500-2000 and smash the gas. Lower the tire pressure as the track allows for a small amount of tire spin. A 1.30 sixty is moving, and it will take excellent traction and a decent amount of power, you might settle for a 1.50 and a longer lasting rear. It's like a 10 bolt if you take it easy it will last, but 6K lunches will kill it if it hooks. There are plenty of high HP cars running IRS, just take it easy out of the hole.