How do you manually rotate the crank on a C5?
How do you manually rotate the crank on a C5? I need to rotate the crank to TDC so I can tighten the rocker arm bolts. How do you rotate the cranK? I can't see any way to get a socket on the crank bolt because of the steering rack. I can barely get a wrench on it but can't leverage it enough to turn it.
Any tricks to this?
George E.
Any tricks to this?
George E.
To be honest, and I am going to get crap for this, but to be honest, if I know the set up is good and don't need to check anything, I just tighten them down to the 22 ft/lbs without the rockers being in a zero lash position. The springs start to open well before the bolt bottoms out and/or you hit 22 ft/lbs on the wrench. I know this is not the best piece of advice, but I really don't think it matters if the rockers are at a point on the lobe or not. I've been wondering if this has any negative effect, it certainly does not seem like it. Maybe one of the smart guys will chime in.
For what its worth, I took the steering rack out to rotate the motor to find my correct push rod length in an application where I didn't know what length should be in there. Once I found 0 lash plus the .060", I put the correct pushrods in and tightened them as they sat. No rotations. I got the ft/lbs only after the rocker tightened against the head. It took like 5 ft/lbs to open the spring if the rocker was on a lobe. There really is no adjustment in stock rockers on these motors, you just tighten them down.
Now if you are dealing with after market adjustables you can bump the starter. Best with two people or to use a remote swtich. Its pretty easy to make one with some good wire, some heavy alligator clips. Just take it out of gear and don't run yourself over. Other than that there is not really an easy way.
For what its worth, I took the steering rack out to rotate the motor to find my correct push rod length in an application where I didn't know what length should be in there. Once I found 0 lash plus the .060", I put the correct pushrods in and tightened them as they sat. No rotations. I got the ft/lbs only after the rocker tightened against the head. It took like 5 ft/lbs to open the spring if the rocker was on a lobe. There really is no adjustment in stock rockers on these motors, you just tighten them down.
Now if you are dealing with after market adjustables you can bump the starter. Best with two people or to use a remote swtich. Its pretty easy to make one with some good wire, some heavy alligator clips. Just take it out of gear and don't run yourself over. Other than that there is not really an easy way.
I use a starter trigger to bump the motor over slowly with the starter. You can buy a cheap one at any auto part store. One wire to a hot source the other to the starter selonoid. Use the trigger to bump the starter...Real handy...
On a manual is it possible to put it in say 6th gear and turn the motor over by rotating the tire by hand? If the plugs are out and no compression built would you be able to do it? Just curious, not trying to hijack.
TECH Apprentice
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Johnsonville, SC; but orginally from GAINESVILLE, FL
Originally Posted by AintQik
To be honest, and I am going to get crap for this, but to be honest, if I know the set up is good and don't need to check anything, I just tighten them down to the 22 ft/lbs without the rockers being in a zero lash position. The springs start to open well before the bolt bottoms out and/or you hit 22 ft/lbs on the wrench. I know this is not the best piece of advice, but I really don't think it matters if the rockers are at a point on the lobe or not. I've been wondering if this has any negative effect, it certainly does not seem like it. Maybe one of the smart guys will chime in.
For what its worth, I took the steering rack out to rotate the motor to find my correct push rod length in an application where I didn't know what length should be in there. Once I found 0 lash plus the .060", I put the correct pushrods in and tightened them as they sat. No rotations. I got the ft/lbs only after the rocker tightened against the head. It took like 5 ft/lbs to open the spring if the rocker was on a lobe. There really is no adjustment in stock rockers on these motors, you just tighten them down.
Now if you are dealing with after market adjustables you can bump the starter. Best with two people or to use a remote swtich. Its pretty easy to make one with some good wire, some heavy alligator clips. Just take it out of gear and don't run yourself over. Other than that there is not really an easy way.
For what its worth, I took the steering rack out to rotate the motor to find my correct push rod length in an application where I didn't know what length should be in there. Once I found 0 lash plus the .060", I put the correct pushrods in and tightened them as they sat. No rotations. I got the ft/lbs only after the rocker tightened against the head. It took like 5 ft/lbs to open the spring if the rocker was on a lobe. There really is no adjustment in stock rockers on these motors, you just tighten them down.
Now if you are dealing with after market adjustables you can bump the starter. Best with two people or to use a remote swtich. Its pretty easy to make one with some good wire, some heavy alligator clips. Just take it out of gear and don't run yourself over. Other than that there is not really an easy way.
Just tighten them all down to 22 ft lbs first....Then I usually just start her up then shut down and go over one more time. Actually I have never found one loose after the initial torque.
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I have an old craftsman box wrench with an offset that you can put on the damper bolt and rotate the crank somewhere between an 1/8 and a quarter turn with the steering rack installed. You end up hitting the water pump pulley to stop it, but it works. I'm lucky to have this wrench, but it would be awesome if it was a box type ratchet. 
I know alot of guys that torque to 22lb/ft. and bring the motor up to operating temp, find any loose ones and tighten them. Before all is said and done while hot, tighten the set screws and give all 1/4 turn to lock them down. What can I say, it works from what I know. I do rotate the crank and check for zero lash every 15 mins. tightening by finger only. I go through 2 complete crank rotations. This provides less preload. When all are at zero lash, I do the same, bring it to operating temperature and check for loose ones etc. I always put on the set screws, tighten them and go 1/4 turn a piece to clamp them down. This method also works, but is time very consuming, because of waiting for the bleedown every 15 minutes. There are a few ways to skin a cat and get the same results, both work without drama.
I know alot of guys that torque to 22lb/ft. and bring the motor up to operating temp, find any loose ones and tighten them. Before all is said and done while hot, tighten the set screws and give all 1/4 turn to lock them down. What can I say, it works from what I know. I do rotate the crank and check for zero lash every 15 mins. tightening by finger only. I go through 2 complete crank rotations. This provides less preload. When all are at zero lash, I do the same, bring it to operating temperature and check for loose ones etc. I always put on the set screws, tighten them and go 1/4 turn a piece to clamp them down. This method also works, but is time very consuming, because of waiting for the bleedown every 15 minutes. There are a few ways to skin a cat and get the same results, both work without drama.
