I just bought a 99 C5 that has been dropped all the way down on the stock bolts, anyways I would like to get under the car to take a better look. Can any of you guys give me some tips on how lift the vette up at home and if I use a lift, what kind and how? If you could also give me any links on how to replace the clutch as well.
Thanks Roger

 

My C5 isn't lowered at all but I built some stepped ramps out of 2x10's so I can get it high enough to fit a jack under it. Just make them long enough at each level so the nose doesn't hit the ramp. I just cut 45 degree angles to step it to the next level with about a 12+ inch landing at each of the 3 levels. Also, pick up some hockey pucks to place on the jack to avoid damaging anything. Cheap but effective. Hope this helps and congrats on the purchase.

 

I purchased some jacking pucks and I have 3 extra's because I only use one. PM me if you want a couple, I am in Deer Park, TX. I just drive my car on a 2 inch wooden block and I have a low profile jack. Without the puck I don't have to put it on the block but becareful doing that.

J.R.

 

I did the same thing. Two stepped levels of 2x10 should give you enough height to get a floor jack under there.
As for the clutch, I haven't attempted it yet, but it's coming soon, so I'm interested in the responses.

 

My car is lowered all the way around. The front is on stock bolts with no bushings and the rear on longer bolts. I drive my car onto a small ramp to get it raised up enough to get a jack under it. The ramp is a 2' long 2x4 with another 2x4 6" long nailed to it 12" from the end. This gives me enough room to get a jack under the car.

I will be installing my new clutch this weekend. I will let you know how it goes. Shouldn't be a big problem though. I will also take some pics of the steps on the install.

 

although this is for A4 quip'd C5's... the tear-down procedure is similar:

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm

 

I used 5/4 deck plank 3 layers works good. But to get it on a post lift its even more fun.

 

My car is slammed... Stock bolts have been removed in front and longer rears.

What you can do is drive up on wood. I have 2"x12"'s Try and stack em if you can. Jack up the front under the motor x-member, jack the rear from the rear x-member. There's a few ways to do it that work. When doing drivetrain work, dont put jackstands under the rear x-member as that needs to come out. I use the stock jacking spots. You don't need jacking pucks, standard jackstands work fine... I've had the driveline out of my car 6 times. It's not bad... 3 clutches, 2 torque-tubes and a busted tranny... lol... Should be good to go now, I hope.. hehe...

Also worked on my buddy's car, did a 402 motor swap and 2 clutches and a broken trans and diff... We're kinda hard on drivetrains.. hahah

It's really not that bad, just looks like it.
Steve

 

look familiar regorih.....

 

I've done it on jackstands by myself and its not bad at all... just takes some time. Be sure to use some zip lock bags or some disposable cups to know which nut and bolt goes with what and label it. You will need to take off all your exhaust (headers included in order to get to the clutch). Follow this link for a great step by step for removing the drivetrain... theres not any description but there are LOTs of pics to give you a good idea.

http://www.redshift.homestead.com/Drivetrain1.html

A tranny jack like in the link above reallllly helps out as well. I picked mine up for ~$70 at Harbor Freight. I used my floor jack and one of the 2X10 planks I use to lift up the car a tad to support the rear K member and the tranny jack to hold up the rear diff/tranny/torque tube assembly. Once the K member is unbolted and all wiring removed, just simply lower the floor jack and the K member will come right out.

Btw, to remove the shafts from the rear diff it will take some force. (Some pop off easier than others) Reinstalling it will take about the same force as it did taking off. I found it easiest to make a quick firm yank while grabbing the upper A arms/rear brake assembly rather than just trying to slowly pry it out.

Make sure you have a clutch alignment tool!!!!! If not it will be next to impossible to eye ball the alignment and get it right. You can pick it up at any store like Advanced auto for just a few $$. **OPTIONAL but recommended ** While you are there, rent a Pilot Bearing puller and buy a solid brass bushing instead of a pilot bearing (also really cheap ~$4) for a '69 Camaro with Munchie 4 speed (crazy I know but that will ensure the right one)

Another tip..... that took me forever and a day to figure out, once the clutch has been aligned and everything torqued to spec, make sure you have an ~5 or 6" C clamp handy. When you go to slide in the torque tube input shaft, get it as level as you can and slide it into the clutch assembly. Once inserted, use the C clamp to squeeze it together enough to get a TT bolt started pretty well (one side of the clamp on the bell housing lip and the other on the TT... I used the flat spot where the bottom bolt on the TT is suppose to go). At this point you can use your ratchet and tighten up the bolt some and intall the remaining bolts as you can.

Don't expect this to be a short job because it isn't! Take you time and all will be good.