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My new C5 is freaking out!

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Old 08-03-2007, 01:55 PM
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Default My new C5 is freaking out!

I didn't wanna post this but its getting annoying, so I installed LG pro lt's, LG off road x pipe, o2 sims, vararam intake, ls6 manifold, and a corsa catback, I also deleted the air pump and EGR. And now my car is running like ****....

The car is back firing, sputtering, hesitating, running rich etc... this is all usually happening at low rpm. Once you get it up and going it runs great. After about a day the check engine light came on... I thought the car was just freaking out from the mods and it would relearn everything. My camaro freaked out for about two days after the long tube install but then got back to normal.

I have checked all spark plugs/wires, the maf and iat sensor are plugged in corectly, o2's are in/routed correctly. Also, the battery was disconnected during the install.

I don't know what to do next. I was thinking maybe a bad o2 sensor but the car was fine before the install. I may run 0bdII to see what codes come up. I was also thinking about possibly resetting the PCM but I don't know how to do that on C5's. Thank you for reading, and any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by 01sscam; 08-03-2007 at 02:21 PM.
Old 08-03-2007, 02:08 PM
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check the codes before resetting the ecu. the computer may hold the answer. i vote bad o2 sensor
Old 08-03-2007, 02:35 PM
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Sounds like a bad o2 to me as well. Check the codes with your DIC like said above.
Old 08-03-2007, 02:52 PM
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Bad or crossed O2's would be my bet also.
Old 08-04-2007, 08:43 AM
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Crossed O2 sensors would be my bet. You probably plugged the fronts into the backs and visa versa. Had the same thing happen to me when I had my clutch installed.

Good luck!
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Old 08-04-2007, 09:16 AM
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as stated above it's probably your o2's...

if they aren't bad or swapped you might have burned them on the headers (referring to the wires) check the codes.. If you need help understanding the codes or need help getting the codes from the DIC, let me know and i'll email you a word doc when i get home that has all the information you need.

BTW... your DIC is that digital display below your speedo. I believe the way to do it without the instructions infront of me is....

clear any errors or information displayed on it when you start your car... hit reset until the errors disappear then press milage until the screen goes blank... hold the options button and then press fuel 4 time in a 10 sec time frame and that should get you to the codes

like i said, if you need help let us know.
Old 08-04-2007, 12:34 PM
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thanks for the input guys. I'm going to check the codes today and see what comes up.
Old 08-04-2007, 08:31 PM
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Id put money on crossed O2 wires
Old 08-04-2007, 08:53 PM
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Haven't had a chance to check it. On monday when I have the car on jackstands to tighten up the exhaust and do an oil change I'll switch the 02's around. I hope thats the problem.
Old 08-05-2007, 04:37 PM
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I'm sure it's something simple like the 02's or plug wires...Hopefully! Let us know what you find.


rt
Old 08-06-2007, 07:35 AM
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actually after re reading your post... I came up with another option that could be your problem....


Vacc. leak behind the intake manifold or you messed up a ground while installing the headers...

I'm still thinking it's your O2's, but if after you check the codes or swap the wires.. (id' check codes rather than put it on the ramps for nothing) I'd start looking upfront at the lil vacc. line thats a big pain in the *** to put back into the mainfold during the reinstallation... If your thinking to yourself i didn't hook up or disconnect any vacc. lines during the installlation thats your problem..

BTW getting the codes is really easy and only take a min or two at best with the directions i gave you... and wont' cost you a thing.
Old 08-06-2007, 04:14 PM
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JUST CHECKED THE CODES.....
Heres what I got.

58 SDM B1001 H- option configuration error

B0 RFA U1255 H- communication loss.
B0 RFA U1096 H- communication loss.
B0 RFA U1064 H- communication loss.
B0 RFA U1016 H- communication loss.

10 PCM P0132 H- circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 1
10 PCM P0151- circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1
10 PCM P1133 H C- insufficient switching bank 1 sensor 1
10 PCM P1153 H C- insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1

And by the way, the little hose behind the intake is plugged in.

Last edited by 01sscam; 08-06-2007 at 04:45 PM.
Old 08-06-2007, 04:56 PM
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Idk how you got those results.... but here is what your codes really mean.

P1133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1-8
P1153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank2 Sensor 1-B
P0151 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1-A
P0132 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO25) Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1-A

U1255 Serial Data Line malfunction
U1064 Loss of Communications with DCM (No State of Health Message)
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC (No State of Health Message)
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM


The RFA codes could be related to the disconnect of hte battery. They are not the problem. Clear those codes.

THe rest are your O2's.
Old 08-06-2007, 04:58 PM
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So what should i do now, new o2 sensors? or do you think they're crossed?
Old 08-06-2007, 05:19 PM
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The 1 sensors referr to before the cats. Bank 1 would be driver side and bank 2 pass side.

So these are the front o2's. THey are either crossed, burnt, or not functioning.

Before lowering the headers i woudl just go and check to make sure they aren't crossed and that they are hooked up and that they are fully intact...

You should be able to easily fix your problem... THe odds both sensors went bad during the installation is very unlikely. So it's either they are not hooked up, they are hooked up incorrectly or they are both burnt (the wires)

If they are burnt good luck finding a parts house local that has them. You will need to purchase new wires form the vendor.

As stated before. They are probably just crossed. DOnt' feel bad it's easy to do.
Old 08-06-2007, 05:21 PM
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Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted on my findings.
Old 08-06-2007, 05:30 PM
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Sounds good.. Good luck.. Post some numbers when your done... SOunds like your not new to building fast cars
Old 08-06-2007, 05:35 PM
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Usually it is the rear O2's that get crossed, not the front ones. I don't see how you could even do it considering how the wiring is routed. Now as for the rears its very easy to do but you have sims. So it just might be a bad O2.
Old 08-06-2007, 05:41 PM
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the o2's on LT's will usually be really close to one another. My TSP's have have less than 3/4's of an inch between one another. THe natural bend of the o2 wires will look like they should connect to the nearest connector. It's hard to understand without pictures... The couple of times i've burnt mine and replaced them i almost goofed them up... Trust me, it can be pretty easy for someone rushing... and with that many mods at once... pretty easy to rush and make a mistake..


If it's crossed wires and thats the worst thing after all that... Nice job.
Old 08-07-2007, 08:16 PM
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Both connectors (front and rear) are virtually in the same place on each side of the car. If you have rear O2 delete, it's very easy to plug them into the wrong ones. Actually, it would be easy even if you had the fronts and rears disconnected at the same time. Those are also the same codes I had when this happened on mine.

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