11's w/ stock internals so hard to believe
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All the guys in my area are trying to say my car has a factory installed LS-6 cam thats why i can run 11's w/ stock internals w/bolt-on's.I don't know why they find hard to believe there is no cam or NOS on my car.So this winter my goal is to get as close as i can to 11.50's w/stock internals without taking my car apart for less weight.Do u guys think that M/T ET Street Radials will get better 60's than Nitto 555R's ?
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Bought the car w/28,000 on it only weight reduction is Weld Pro Stars 15x4 & 15x10 and no front swaybar & everthing else is still on the car.Best 60ft time 1.63.Car has LT & Off road y-pipe,Yank SS3600 stall,SLP underdrive pully,P&P TB,LCA,PHB,STB,Adjustable torque arm,Hypertech hand tuner,w/Stock CME catback & Blackwing lid,Stock 3:23's.
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It's hard to believe for most people because there's not too many that will put that kind of time and $ into a bolt-on car w/o touching the motor. That 11.8 is pretty damn impressive though at near-stock weight. And yes, the ET Streets will do MUCH better than nittos
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I only have around $3500 into the car w/ everything i have done myself so i dont thinks thats bad.What i think is bad is when someone does H/C and all the bolt-on's & i beat them @ the track.
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That's a reallly good et considering the weight, I had some weight reduction but a pair of some old school firebird wheels that were probably as heavy as the car lol and I ran a 12.4. Converter, ls6 intake, and full exhaust. Lca, and swaybar off, with a street tune. And this is in a 98, I really think with some wheels and some minor things I could of ran in the 11's but I've had the car parked. Good job!!!
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Also I've had mt et radials, but I think I would try an et street next, but then I don't care if the rear goes lol. But the mt radials would be an improvment over the Nittos.
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I would just stick with the ET radials, they feel more stable on the highway than the ET Streets. Besides, if you're cutting 1.63 on the nittos, you won't have any issues at all with ET Street radials. I could dump the clutch at 6k when I had my 275 ET Street radials and it would dead hook.
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I thought this was the results section? haha
dont waste your money on a cf driveshaft or a fast intake if you are bolt ons...will gain next to nothing...
good luck man
dont waste your money on a cf driveshaft or a fast intake if you are bolt ons...will gain next to nothing...
good luck man
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I think 11.5s might be a little difficult to achieve without some further weight reduction and/or some 3.73s.
I have a similar set up in my Z28 (though I had a little bit more weight out) and I've found that the 3.23s are kind of a limiting factor.
I have a similar set up in my Z28 (though I had a little bit more weight out) and I've found that the 3.23s are kind of a limiting factor.
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What kind of weather and elevation we talking about bolt on cars running 11s ? You run consistant 11.8 all summer or only once during winter ? Why not take the passenger / rear seats out and buy a light weight race battery. That right there should be a good 70lbs or so. Drop the cat back too if it unbolts easy. If you're running 11s with a bolt on car you shoud know there are better tires than nittos. Good luck
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your doing the same thing im trying to do, if i were you i would get a VFN pin on hood, tubular k-member, lightweight battary and those m/t you were talking about....also i would get some 3.73s they are worth something...and depending on the budget an EWP just because they are badass...lol