6.05 @ 115.6 mph 1/8 mile "cam only" + spray
07-26-2011, 03:32 PM
#41
Well, we retired the stock bottom end LS1 and finally installed our 427 a couple of weeks ago. The LS1 was still running strong when we pulled it out.
Anyway, we just ran at the Rock this past saturday with the new engine on the same shot and went 5.63 @ 125.5 mph. All our racing locally is 1/8 mile, but hopefully we'll make it out to the shootout this fall to run Real Street and see what she will do in the 1/4.
Anyway, we just ran at the Rock this past saturday with the new engine on the same shot and went 5.63 @ 125.5 mph. All our racing locally is 1/8 mile, but hopefully we'll make it out to the shootout this fall to run Real Street and see what she will do in the 1/4.
07-28-2011, 08:40 PM
#44
Thanks guys! We built the 427 to fit a local 275 real street class. Their cubic inch small block limit is 427 with an .082" jet rule for single bar nitrous setups. Stock valve angle is the rule as well, so we're running 15 degree All Pro cathedral port heads. It was 100 degrees in the mid afternoon when that 5.63 was posted, and with a few tenths of delay on the spray too. I think it will go a lot quicker the next time out. 
08-01-2011, 02:19 AM
#49
Yes, the rotating assembly is a completely stock 99 model LS1 we removed from a customers Z28 a couple of years ago. It has about 50,000 miles on it. Its never been apart, never balanced or anything like that. It does have Katech rod bolts. I'm only turning it to 6,500 rpms for fear of it breaking a rod with this much power.
Either way sorry for the 
08-01-2011, 07:54 PM
#55
disregard the guesstimated number, lol...I don't know what i was thinking when i posted up
so I guess what i really meant to ask was basically: Are the Katech's just as effective without honing as Arp's are after honing etc. (in a factory Ls1 rod)
But yes, Sorry for the thread jack, was only expecting to ask one question about the rods needing to be honed and it surprised me that they didn't. lol
so I guess what i really meant to ask was basically: Are the Katech's just as effective without honing as Arp's are after honing etc. (in a factory Ls1 rod)
But yes, Sorry for the thread jack, was only expecting to ask one question about the rods needing to be honed and it surprised me that they didn't. lol
Last edited by dstappity; 08-01-2011 at 08:01 PM.
08-03-2011, 10:14 PM
#56
ARP 2000 and Katechs both have 200,000 psi yield strength. The ARP L19 rod bolts are 220,000 psi however they are 7/16 whereas the others are 3/8 dia. bolts. So the L19's wont fit stock rods. The katech's are tried and trued, you can't go wrong with them
08-04-2011, 03:30 PM
#58
Katech rod bolts are 260,000+psi yield strength
08-04-2011, 10:59 PM
#59
Just quoting the website..
$199.99 -- Fits all LSx engines
Purchase Connecting Rod Bolts
Gen 3 / 4 Rod Bolts Extensive testing by Katech for GM’s LS1 ASA engines showed the production rod bolt to be the weak link in the stock bottom end in the LS1 engines. Our rod bolt is the best you can get and fits production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
These direct replacement bolts are made from H-11 material for extremely high tensile strength with threads rolled to J-graded specifications. To install the new bolts, simply remove the old bolts and feral that hold them in the rod cap. Then insert the new rod bolts, apply a light coating of supplied lubricant to the threads and torque to 50ft.lbs. Using the Katech rod bolts will increase your engines RPM and Horsepower potential.
• H-11 high tensile material - 200,000 psi yield strength
• Bolts directly in place, no resizing necessary
• Extended RPM usage
• CMD lube (for steel rods) included
• Now fits LS7 also (requires Dow Molykote 1000 lube - sold seperately)
$199.99 -- Fits all LSx engines
Purchase Connecting Rod Bolts
Gen 3 / 4 Rod Bolts Extensive testing by Katech for GM’s LS1 ASA engines showed the production rod bolt to be the weak link in the stock bottom end in the LS1 engines. Our rod bolt is the best you can get and fits production connecting rods without having to re-hone them to size.
These direct replacement bolts are made from H-11 material for extremely high tensile strength with threads rolled to J-graded specifications. To install the new bolts, simply remove the old bolts and feral that hold them in the rod cap. Then insert the new rod bolts, apply a light coating of supplied lubricant to the threads and torque to 50ft.lbs. Using the Katech rod bolts will increase your engines RPM and Horsepower potential.
• H-11 high tensile material - 200,000 psi yield strength
• Bolts directly in place, no resizing necessary
• Extended RPM usage
• CMD lube (for steel rods) included
• Now fits LS7 also (requires Dow Molykote 1000 lube - sold seperately)
08-05-2011, 01:57 AM
#60
Well, we retired the stock bottom end LS1 and finally installed our 427 a couple of weeks ago. The LS1 was still running strong when we pulled it out.
Anyway, we just ran at the Rock this past saturday with the new engine on the same shot and went 5.63 @ 125.5 mph. All our racing locally is 1/8 mile, but hopefully we'll make it out to the shootout this fall to run Real Street and see what she will do in the 1/4.
Anyway, we just ran at the Rock this past saturday with the new engine on the same shot and went 5.63 @ 125.5 mph. All our racing locally is 1/8 mile, but hopefully we'll make it out to the shootout this fall to run Real Street and see what she will do in the 1/4.
I understand the X275 DR classes at Piedmont, Fayetteville and The Rock are 1/8 mile (although The Rock and Fayetteville are 1/4 mile) I don't see why you couldn't run it out the back door once or twice while you were there. I'm sure if you asked the guys in the tower at The Rock they'd let you make a full run to see what it would run.
I'm sure you would change the tune a little to either richen it up at the top of the powerband or pull a degree or two of timing out up top in your 1:1 if you have the tune tuned on the hot side since your only running 660'.