what is the fastest 1/8th et for stock ls1 long block NA
#43
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It's a revmaxx converter I think it's hurting my mph on big end stock Trans no shift kit or anything and stock 10 bolt with 3.23
I honestly think by putting a good merge in my y pipe and so light race wheels will help a lot I have to put the nittos on
12-14psi to get it to hook I think just a mt drag radial at 20-25psi would help some with mph and of course help 60
I honestly think by putting a good merge in my y pipe and so light race wheels will help a lot I have to put the nittos on
12-14psi to get it to hook I think just a mt drag radial at 20-25psi would help some with mph and of course help 60
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We did run a new 1/8 mile best today of 6.42 @100mph with an issue. Something broke in the trans on the 3-4 shift right before the 1/8 mile.
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You could get it there. Have alllllllllll bolt ons done, ewp, UDP, everything. Weight reduction, and a new gear set wouldn't hurt but I understand not wanting to change it. I'm still on 2.73s.
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Ok so I've been looking at some weight cutting options..within next few weeks (as long as I get good weather no garage)I'm going to pull my carpet and insulation out and out in some light carpet in and was wondering if anyone knew how much kit key economy race seats will save me some weight I can't find anyone stating there weight...other than that I'm going to ditch the nt555r for mt drag radial 255/50/16..and for power going to get a flow master merge and put it in and see if it pick ups any
#50
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My stock internal car has been 7.16 in the 1/8 at 95 or 96 mph when i ran the 11.29 at 119. Car was between 3200 to 3300 lbs with me in it and 40 degree temps. 1.52 60ft's all day launching at 5500 or 6000.
Mine would definately go faster if i dropped more weight and rebuilt the trans. Trans is slow to go into all gears, syncros are just plain wore out.
I wanted to pull the interior and exhaust off again and run it this winter but just have not done it.
Mine will barely run 12.0's in the heat with everthing in it at all the lsx races if that gives you an idea of what makes a difference. 3550 or more raceweight
Lightweight, cold air, keeping it in the main power band(4400 to 6000) can mean several mph, just optimize the setup.
Mine would definately go faster if i dropped more weight and rebuilt the trans. Trans is slow to go into all gears, syncros are just plain wore out.
I wanted to pull the interior and exhaust off again and run it this winter but just have not done it.
Mine will barely run 12.0's in the heat with everthing in it at all the lsx races if that gives you an idea of what makes a difference. 3550 or more raceweight
Lightweight, cold air, keeping it in the main power band(4400 to 6000) can mean several mph, just optimize the setup.
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My stock internal car has been 7.16 in the 1/8 at 95 or 96 mph when i ran the 11.29 at 119. Car was between 3200 to 3300 lbs with me in it and 40 degree temps. 1.52 60ft's all day launching at 5500 or 6000.
Mine would definately go faster if i dropped more weight and rebuilt the trans. Trans is slow to go into all gears, syncros are just plain wore out.
I wanted to pull the interior and exhaust off again and run it this winter but just have not done it.
Mine will barely run 12.0's in the heat with everthing in it at all the lsx races if that gives you an idea of what makes a difference. 3550 or more raceweight
Lightweight, cold air, keeping it in the main power band(4400 to 6000) can mean several mph, just optimize the setup.
Mine would definately go faster if i dropped more weight and rebuilt the trans. Trans is slow to go into all gears, syncros are just plain wore out.
I wanted to pull the interior and exhaust off again and run it this winter but just have not done it.
Mine will barely run 12.0's in the heat with everthing in it at all the lsx races if that gives you an idea of what makes a difference. 3550 or more raceweight
Lightweight, cold air, keeping it in the main power band(4400 to 6000) can mean several mph, just optimize the setup.
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I went 7.02 in the 1/8th when I ran my record run of 11.08 stock internal. I did manage squeeze a 1.45 60' out of it a couple times but on that particular pass I had a 1.47 60' That's with 3:89's in a 9", Yank PT4400, tons of weight reduction and extremely good air. it was a very cool Dec. day in Northern Maryland too lol
If I had it back I would've tried a 4600+ convertor and see how well it worked.
If I had it back I would've tried a 4600+ convertor and see how well it worked.
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That's rolling man...my local track requires me to put a 6 point cage when I break a 7.39 or better so once and if I go faster than that I'll have to put a cage in and there will be adding some weight...I almost need a poll whether to keep going on stock long block or turbo 4.8 time..who knows if track opens and I go out and run a new best that would probably tell me to keep working on the ls1
#54
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My local track should be open soon I'm gonna try and get a used set of Mickey thompson drag radials and see how much it helps vs the nt555rs..other than that I'm having a hard time putting more money into a motor with almost 185k when I have a 08 4.8 and 4l80e I just bought a few months back and I'm wanting to turbo it so I'm kind of in a pickle...go fast with little hp vs go fast with a lot of power lol
Im honestly sick of being so slow in mine and want to add power. I was going to do a bg 75 or 76 on mine with an aluminum 5.3 from the junkyard till the idea of the crate engine class came up. I still want a turbo setup to drive.
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I agree the 4.8 and turbo would be the better choice power wise. It takes alot to go fast with a stock internal car. The main thing is just weight, by the time you bought drag brakes, k member, a fast intake, you could have easily used that money to buy injectors, fuel pump and lines, turbo ect.
Im honestly sick of being so slow in mine and want to add power. I was going to do a bg 75 or 76 on mine with an aluminum 5.3 from the junkyard till the idea of the crate engine class came up. I still want a turbo setup to drive.
Im honestly sick of being so slow in mine and want to add power. I was going to do a bg 75 or 76 on mine with an aluminum 5.3 from the junkyard till the idea of the crate engine class came up. I still want a turbo setup to drive.
I was wanting to do one of the 650 bws475 but for price I will probably get the denmah kit cheap walbro 400 and set of 80lb injectors..the 4.8 I have is a 08 that came with a 4l80e so I would max out the turbo before motor on Trans would have issues..but thanks again for all advice
#56
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I was wanting to do one of the 650 bws475 but for price I will probably get the denmah kit cheap walbro 400 and set of 80lb injectors..the 4.8 I have is a 08 that came with a 4l80e so I would max out the turbo before motor on Trans would have issues..but thanks again for all advice
#57
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Ok so I've been looking at some weight cutting options..within next few weeks (as long as I get good weather no garage)I'm going to pull my carpet and insulation out and out in some light carpet in and was wondering if anyone knew how much kit key economy race seats will save me some weight I can't find anyone stating there weight...other than that I'm going to ditch the nt555r for mt drag radial 255/50/16..and for power going to get a flow master merge and put it in and see if it pick ups any
The Hoosiers are lighter and perhaps a bit stickier than the MT in that size.
Goodluck and keep us posted.
We may get a few passes in this spring too.
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Had to update the car ended up at a 7.51 not much better but before I could do any mods the stock Trans let go. currently doing a top end rebuild on the car and swapping to 4l80e. makes me sad but I'm gonna prep the old 190k ls1 for some boost and see how long it holds