rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

Been doing ET Car Club Drags for 2 years. My car is my daily driver and I don't or didn't want to get radical with it, since it is my transportation. I did these mods below, something is not right and not sure what it is. Here is a breakdown and my times. I do the ET drags every 2 weeks all summer so I know my car very well. I don't have all my slips but this is off my head

1)Did Lid/K&N, Magnaflow CB, LCA's, Full Diamond SFC's, Predator tune - Best 13.54 @ 106 was very consitant 13.60's and no wheel spin on daytona zr street tires 2.10* 60 foot times.

2)Added 3:42's (was 2:73's). Was only change 13.3's all day long, some 13.24's on a good day, 1.95* 60 foot times. On street tires and no wheel spin. Still at 105 to 106mph.

3)Added a Yank stealth 2600 stall with same as stock STR(restalled stock stall converter) and Nitto Drag Radials(no other mods or tuning etc. Ran a best 13.17 and all day long 13.2's with 1,94* 60 foot times , had one run with a 1.854 60 and had to let off the gas due to I would have broke out in the ET drags, Should have been a 13.0* run or 12.9's, now mph is at 104

I have ran a few dyno runs and my best was 307.1 rwhp and I think 324 TQ

4)I added FLP LT headers and catted Y. Times same as before headers. No better or worse. Still at 104mph, not sure what gives. I went and had a dyno done and was hitting right at 340 rwhp and can't remember TQ, but went up around 22. I was irritated due to around a 35h.p gain on same dyno as the 307 one and 0 gain in 1/4 mile? I adjusted the A/F on dyno for the best h.p and TQ. Also the curve went up like stock and no drop off. This week had TQ management removed. Still same times, ran a 13.14, 13.2, 13.17. I even did the bump stop mod and smoothed out the tb for flow.

Car feels stronger but times don't show it. I am getting wheel hop at times even with the nitto's smoking hot which it never did before the Lt's.
So now I am getting a Fuddle stall converter 3400, 2.1 str.

Just irritates me that I am running basically the same times as before the stall converter and LT headers and mph went down 2mph. The car would run 12's with a lighter driver, I am about 290, but it still pisses me off.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

Ok here we go. Lets see if I can shred some light. Weather plays a very big roll on performance. It is very hot this time of the year. You will slow down quite a bit. I am running about 3 to 4 hundreds off. 80 degree temps and lower I run in the 6.50's to 6.70's. In this over 95 degree weather we are running from 6.80 to 6.90's.

Check your weather from the before runs and compare them to your newest runs. I would bet that this info will answer your questions. Good luck and please report what ya find out.

Coach

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

A few weeks ago was 125 degree track temps and DA was 3500 feet and ran 13.2, 13.21, etc. So then I thought the next time out would change, was 70 out and DA was 2500 and ran 13.14, 13.17, 13.22. MY car needs all the planets to align to get a good time. It's either bouncing off the rev limiter, wheel hop off the line or shifts slow. After running 13.2's all day long in hot and cool days last year. Then adding the small stall and nittos and LT headers and running a 13.14 best it kinda sucks.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

Ok. Go back into the tuning. Bump the limiter up some and adjust the shift points. Then you should be golden.

Coach

COMNBYU

So many people overlook this fact. Not only the weather but also engine temp. I'm sure if you've been doing this (dragracing) for a while you're aware of it, the only reason I mention it is because it sounds like you're into bracket racing, and BR isn't about getting the best out of your car, it's about being consistent. Most BR'ers don't run their car to the full potential because it's more important to be consistent.

Anyhoo, if you haven't already, try letting your car cool to below 100* and either run your fans religiously in the staging lanes only starting the car to move up, OR leave the car off and push it. When you get to the lights you want that gauge to read 160 or LESS.

I'm starting to find that my LS1 has a simular issue that my old LT1 had: heatsoak. When your eng. temps are 180*+ you can just go ahead and start adding tenths to the pass you're about to run.

As was said weather conditions make all the difference in the world. The more heat/humidity/elevation you have, the more ET you're gonna have


Here's a good EX. that relates to the above 2 paragraphs-

My old '96 LT1 in sig ran a BEST of 13.62 @ 102 in bone stock form. That was a cool March night with 0% humid., around 65*, and at sealevel. Engine temp on that pass was less than 100*. Now, later that same year at Super Chevy, with the same car and no additional mods, I ran a best of 14.45 @ 97. It was early Sept and we had a heat index of 105+, 90%+ humid., and I had been stuck the staging lanes for an hour constantly having to move my car every few second or so. Eng. temps were 230-240ish*



I think that pretty much sums it up...












Jon

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

LS1 arent picky about heat. I hotlapped the **** out of an 02 car and it wetn 12.9/13.0 at 109 with a lid/maf to lean out stock tune and 12.50/112 with headers and a ported TB

If anything they seem to like a hot motor (and cold air)

My LT1 was the opposite, consistant high 13.6 low 13.7 car hot, and a best of 13.50 bone stock, on a cool day, just getting up to temp after a long cooldown

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I expected more from the LT headers. 1 guy this week at the track was running the same time as me with the same mods(only difference was his car was a 00 and I have the Predator tune, 2600 stall and Nitto's) I had a 1.920 60 foot to his 2.000, a 8.4 1/8th to his 8.6 1/8th and my mph was about 4 more than his at the 1000 foot mark. Then from the 1/8th to the end of the 1/4 mile he gained 7 more mph than me and went through at 107 to my 104. I am thinking the stall converter may be my downfall, right after I put it in my mph went from 106 to 104 and odd thing is no matter what temp outside I always run 104, even on a 1.841 60 foot I ran 104mph, then can run a 1.970 and still run at 104. I removed TQ management last week to see if it helped. I didn't see any change.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

you should have went with a bigger stall, a 2600 is really nothing very close to stock.

Minimally I would have put in a 35-3600 stall.

Black8Banger

iTrader: (9)

Hey man, I know how you feel. I had a very very similar time with my car at that stage. I had gears, tires, 3200 stall, lt headers, etc and was running a good .4-.5 slower than what I thought. I did some research and some thinking. I had it retuned and some adjustments on air/fuel, spark, shift points etc. changed and found out my weakest point was air flow restriction...switched to ls6 intake and my times dropped from 12.8s to 12.3s just by doing this. I see your car is an 02 so thats not your weakest point. You just gotta get the combination right so everything works together. IMO, your stall is too small. I daily drove my 3200 stall and it did fine.

Also, I had a predator tuner and it was worthless for me. Once I got a real dyno and ls1 edit tune I found out that the predator didnt even really change what I told it to change. Couldve been just mine but who knows!

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

Your right on the Predator and the stall. I am in the process of getting a 3400 2.1 str stall and it will not be the 300mm so that will help too. I did the changes with the Predator on the dyno and I am right at 340 rwhp, since the Predator only tunes for WOT. Removing my cats this week and will get a custom tune, problem is around here there are not many people that do tunes(closest is 80 miles away). Back to the Predator....I changed my gear ratio and used the #'s they say on Diablosports site and took about 10 times for the pcm to see the change. So makes me wonder what else the pcm isn't picking up when I make changes. I did get a custom tune from running with the devil, but my car didn't like it, pinged alot. So I had them lower my cruising fuel to make my LTFT's slightly negative and remove TQ management.

COMNBYU

Well you can believe what you want, but my personal experience so far is that they do.

I also believe that's why we hear about so many guys with LT/S 1's complaining about running 13.9-14.5's in A4 cars with 2.0-.1 60's, because they don't understand how much wheather AND eng. temp play a role.


But that's just me....










Jon

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

well one has a aluminum block with a plastic manifold

the other is an iron block.

guess which one dissipates heat better?


its definitely combination. with a tsp 85 mm lid, slp 85mm MAF, FTRA, TCI 3800 stall (2.7 str )and Nittos with a basic tune my car went 12.4 was my car a freak? hell no, i just had the right combo working.

you need to get your car tuned with ls1edit and sell that predator.

go bigger on the stall , the lower str will make it softer on launches, i prefer the opposite, to launch hard.

A TCI 3500 should run you about 500 bucks, go with a 3800 you'll thank me later and it drives fine on the street.

BlueSix

TM maybe?

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I already purchased a Fuddle 3400 2.1 str stall. TQ management was removed a few weeks back. Will see new times in a couple weeks

Jake19_2

Any new times, did you get this figured out? Nevermind I just looked at your sig, looks like the problem was in the tuning?

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I haven't done any tuning since I posted, just added the 3400 stall and my times dropped. MPH is still low at 105.86, but at least I am running in area I should now.