Depressed 380 rwhp @13.4 in 1/4 mile
11-21-2007, 10:24 PM
#22
If you have 3.42's do not launch you car in 2nd gear. If you do not have at least drag radials you should not leave any Higher than 2,500 to 2,800 RPM's. I asked other questions that you did not answer. Give us some help here and maybe we can help you! One other question are you side stepping the clutch at launch?
You are correct in your first post if you have that much HP/TQ you should have had a much faster ET. Someone else said you should have blow your tires away as soon as you let out the clutch and stomped on the gas!
You are correct in your first post if you have that much HP/TQ you should have had a much faster ET. Someone else said you should have blow your tires away as soon as you let out the clutch and stomped on the gas!
11-22-2007, 06:46 AM
#25
You are correct the only Trans Ams that came with a 3.23 in a 6 spd were some of the early 1998 models yours is a 3.42. I just wanted to make sure since you were talking about leaving in second gear that you did not have a 4.10 gear. I have launched many times at 3,000 RPM with Drag Radials but not street tires.
For comparsion what was you 1/8 mile time and MPH? Just to see if we are missing something.
Just to give you some comparsions, I have had four Trans Ams with a 6 spd still have two of them and at the same 1/4 mile track in Bristol TN. with an elevation of 1,100 something feet which means slow times they have run the following numbers.
1996 Non WS6 completely stock 14.24 at 97
99 WS6 completely stock 13.38 at 106
2000 Non WS6 with lid and drag radials 13.60 at 105
2002 WS6 with lid and drag radials 13.21 at 108
Have great Thanksgiving!
For comparsion what was you 1/8 mile time and MPH? Just to see if we are missing something.
Just to give you some comparsions, I have had four Trans Ams with a 6 spd still have two of them and at the same 1/4 mile track in Bristol TN. with an elevation of 1,100 something feet which means slow times they have run the following numbers.
1996 Non WS6 completely stock 14.24 at 97
99 WS6 completely stock 13.38 at 106
2000 Non WS6 with lid and drag radials 13.60 at 105
2002 WS6 with lid and drag radials 13.21 at 108
Have great Thanksgiving!
11-29-2007, 10:19 PM
#26
11 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmmm the 56 cam makes power from 2k to 6200 so id keep the 342s....trap seems really low...what rockers are you using and valvesprings....
i have the vhp 66 cam it pulls hard to 6500 where it shifts at....
i would take it and have the a/f checked and definatly get some tires...i pull 1.6s on a slightly strengthened 10 bolt
i have the vhp 66 cam it pulls hard to 6500 where it shifts at....
i would take it and have the a/f checked and definatly get some tires...i pull 1.6s on a slightly strengthened 10 bolt
11-30-2007, 12:08 PM
#27
i don't think the suspension and gearing has much to do with the weak performance.
i'd look at the driver. only trapping 106 in a 380whp car is driver-error. for comparison, the wife's bone stock 99 m6 ws6 with only a lid and what i believe are eibach pro kit springs, full weight, with the da ~2,500' - car went a best et of 13.2 (@ 105) and a best mph of 108 (13.4). the car has completely stock suspension with exception to the springs, stock rear gear, clutch, etc etc etc. stock shifter even. i launched it @ 2,200 quickly slipping the clutch which generated high 2.0-low 2.1 60' times on street tires with 32 psi in them. this was my FIRST TIME AT THE TRACK in this car. i'm far from a good driver, but ironically enough - i was the quickest of like 7 fbody cars there that night, being the only one lacking headers.
i'd look at the driver. only trapping 106 in a 380whp car is driver-error. for comparison, the wife's bone stock 99 m6 ws6 with only a lid and what i believe are eibach pro kit springs, full weight, with the da ~2,500' - car went a best et of 13.2 (@ 105) and a best mph of 108 (13.4). the car has completely stock suspension with exception to the springs, stock rear gear, clutch, etc etc etc. stock shifter even. i launched it @ 2,200 quickly slipping the clutch which generated high 2.0-low 2.1 60' times on street tires with 32 psi in them. this was my FIRST TIME AT THE TRACK in this car. i'm far from a good driver, but ironically enough - i was the quickest of like 7 fbody cars there that night, being the only one lacking headers.
11-30-2007, 12:32 PM
#29
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Central MA
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
See my sig. Thats all the mods I have and im running 245/50/16 GS-A Goodyears (stock). I launch at 2500 rpm. Anything higher for me smokes the tires. Stock suspension except for Spohn LCA's. I need a 12 bolt or S60 bad. Then I can put the stickies on. Shifting REALLY FAST makes a big difference.
Try double clutching like Vin Diesel says.
Manuals are tricky to get down the track. No so much with my power level but those guys running 9's and 10's deserve alot of credit.
You need what I need.
1) slicks or drag radials
2) stronger rearend
3) full suspension mods
4) Better clutch (atleast in my case)
Try double clutching like Vin Diesel says.
Manuals are tricky to get down the track. No so much with my power level but those guys running 9's and 10's deserve alot of credit.
You need what I need.
1) slicks or drag radials
2) stronger rearend
3) full suspension mods
4) Better clutch (atleast in my case)
11-30-2007, 12:56 PM
#30
DO NOT SPEND ANY MONEY (EXCEPT TIRES) AND REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
11-30-2007, 06:28 PM
#31
DO NOT SPEND ANY MONEY (EXCEPT TIRES) AND REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
11-30-2007, 11:13 PM
#32
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: From Indy now San Diego
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a similar experience with my car that puts out 330rwhp. Putting practicing and experince aside, I think the track you ran at may not have been prepped well. In my case I was pulling 13.9's at 103mph at IRP (Indianapolis) in 70 deg weather with a bit of humidity (normal conditions). I got the about the same 60ft times as you, but the main problem besides having street tires, and a little inexperience with launching was the track preparation. Tires were spinning through the first two gears. I knew my car was should have been faster as I've ran even with an ls1 z with similar mods who I'd seen run a 12.9 at 108 at another track in person. I think the track you ran at may be how IceRP usually preps their track for street nights. That combined with experience and practice could explain your runs
12-01-2007, 12:00 AM
#33
I had a similar experience with my car that puts out 330rwhp. Putting practicing and experince aside, I think the track you ran at may not have been prepped well. In my case I was pulling 13.9's at 103mph at IRP (Indianapolis) in 70 deg weather with a bit of humidity (normal conditions). I got the about the same 60ft times as you, but the main problem besides having street tires, and a little inexperience with launching was the track preparation. Tires were spinning through the first two gears. I knew my car was should have been faster as I've ran even with an ls1 z with similar mods who I'd seen run a 12.9 at 108 at another track in person. I think the track you ran at may be how IceRP usually preps their track for street nights. That combined with experience and practice could explain your runs
12-01-2007, 08:59 AM
#34
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Central MA
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DO NOT SPEND ANY MONEY (EXCEPT TIRES) AND REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
You stated you are new at this and practice and attention to the details is everything. My last 6sp car @ 3350lb race weight on regular radials (goodyear Z whatever) ran 12.3 @ 115 w/ 335 rwhp w/ a 1.85 60ft your car w/ you should be ~ 250 heavier which is still good for 12.6 @ 112 approx.
I REPEAT DO NOT BUY ANY SUSPENSION PARTS UNTIL YOU REALLY LEARN TO DRIVE THE CAR.
You need to make as many passes as possible @ the track and study the time slips as well as your launch technique.( by study the slip I mean the following: remember your launch rpm's and increase or decrease the rpm's until you achieve the best 60ft. , With your shifts do the same thing and look at the 330, 1/8, & 1000ft times and compare what rpm's net you what et gain or loss) Every hunderd RPM'S count both on the launch and during the shifts. Once you get a good handle on the process you have a few decisions to make.
1. Do you want that fast time slip bad enough to buy drag radials which will eventually lead to needing to buy a new rearend?
2. Are you willing to power shift that car to gain an extra .1 per shift and possibly need a trans rebuild sooner and a new clutch sooner?
I've driven guys cars that swore their car was frreakishly slow for the power it made. Then I abuse the **** out if down the track and it picks up .3 and 3 - 4 mph. Difference: the owner drove it down the track and I race/abuse it down the track.
HOW BAD DO YOU WANT THAT FAST TIME SLIP??????????
Some good advice however I disagree about the "tires only"
380 rwhp + Slicks/ DR + 10 bolt = Broken Rearend. I hope you own a trailer or have AAA.
Search the threads you will find that stock power can break a 10 bolt on slicks or DR's
Yes your timeslip will improve but for a limited time and there is no telling when it will break but it most likely wont be long with a 10 bolt.
Good luck.
Last edited by 2002_z28_m6; 12-01-2007 at 09:06 AM.
12-01-2007, 11:30 AM
#35
Some good advice however I disagree about the "tires only"
380 rwhp + Slicks/ DR + 10 bolt = Broken Rearend. I hope you own a trailer or have AAA.
Search the threads you will find that stock power can break a 10 bolt on slicks or DR's
Yes your timeslip will improve but for a limited time and there is no telling when it will break but it most likely wont be long with a 10 bolt.
Good luck.
380 rwhp + Slicks/ DR + 10 bolt = Broken Rearend. I hope you own a trailer or have AAA.
Search the threads you will find that stock power can break a 10 bolt on slicks or DR's
Yes your timeslip will improve but for a limited time and there is no telling when it will break but it most likely wont be long with a 10 bolt.
Good luck.
12-01-2007, 12:05 PM
#37
Banned
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chitown
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to the thread starter - you need some drag radials... you can be easy on the 10 bolt and cut 2.0 60's. that alone could knock off a half second from a 2.2x 60' time.
that's simple, safe, and easy. we actually have a set of 255/50R16 mickey thompson drag radials that would fit your stock wheels at the shop. (call me if you're interested).
other than that, practice shifting, and experimenting w/ different shift points and see where you get the best results. The FIRST thing you need to do is to get your 60' times consistent before you start messing around with anything else (otherise your results will not be accurate if you're trying to pinpoint where the car likes to be shifted).
that's simple, safe, and easy. we actually have a set of 255/50R16 mickey thompson drag radials that would fit your stock wheels at the shop. (call me if you're interested).
other than that, practice shifting, and experimenting w/ different shift points and see where you get the best results. The FIRST thing you need to do is to get your 60' times consistent before you start messing around with anything else (otherise your results will not be accurate if you're trying to pinpoint where the car likes to be shifted).
12-01-2007, 05:58 PM
#38
to the thread starter - you need some drag radials... you can be easy on the 10 bolt and cut 2.0 60's. that alone could knock off a half second from a 2.2x 60' time.
that's simple, safe, and easy. we actually have a set of 255/50R16 mickey thompson drag radials that would fit your stock wheels at the shop. (call me if you're interested).
other than that, practice shifting, and experimenting w/ different shift points and see where you get the best results. The FIRST thing you need to do is to get your 60' times consistent before you start messing around with anything else (otherise your results will not be accurate if you're trying to pinpoint where the car likes to be shifted).
that's simple, safe, and easy. we actually have a set of 255/50R16 mickey thompson drag radials that would fit your stock wheels at the shop. (call me if you're interested).
other than that, practice shifting, and experimenting w/ different shift points and see where you get the best results. The FIRST thing you need to do is to get your 60' times consistent before you start messing around with anything else (otherise your results will not be accurate if you're trying to pinpoint where the car likes to be shifted).
