JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Dont see why not, I would jsut cut the seam sealer at the seam then when its out you can get rid of the sealer still on that car if you want.

nemss1

ya ill drill all the spot-welds and remove some of the seam sealer till i can see the seam and clean up the rest after i remove the panels. probably starting this monday

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

I am going to cut it out on my car along with the spare tire area and the same area on the other side but am thinking about welding in one peice of aluminum to cover the intire area, all depends were I put the battery. Going to map everything out first.

nemss1

yup, this is exactly what im doing except im welding up 3 seperate pieces instead of one

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Im going to try and go with one just because its less fab work and looks cleaner.

nemss1

what gauge steel should i use?

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Whatever gauge the floor is.

Id go aluminum but thats just me.

nemss1

oh ya, shoulda thought of that

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Were was that pic taken? I went to OCU for a year back in 01 on Memorial rd. Nice area, went down to OU a few times.

nemss1

pic was taken at a carwash just north of edmond on douglas and charter oak road. up past waterloo road

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thought it looked a little familiar.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I like the way you cut out all of the extra metal under the sail panels. I plan on trimming mine so that I can still keep all of the interior panels.

nemss1

beaflag, when u trim yours, please post pics of how u trimmed it. wanna keep the panels too

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

Thanks i really like how it turned out also, ill try my best to explain how i cut mine.

Middle Tub.....
The majority of my work i used a cut off wheel.
I started out by trimming the side of the tub, i cut along the rear fraim rails side, i trimmed them all the way till the Pinch welds on the frame well. so when u get it cut out the middle tub on each frame well side should be two layers thick(where the frame rails are spot welded together.

Next i used a straight edge, layed it level across on the top of the frame rails to make a straight line on the tail light panels side of the tub.

Next i did the gas tank side. i used the level again, drew another straight line and cut out.

The middle tub was the easiest by far. I used 18g steel for the middle tub and welded it in all the way around and follow it up with 3m seam sealer. i used poster board and some card board to build templates. You just need to be exact on 3 of the sides for the middle tub. Two side on frame rail and gas tanks side. I got the piece to fit in there perfectly on those three sides and the tail light side was hanging out like 2'' past to back of the trunk. i spot welded all the way aroung to hold in place. then from the out side of the car trimmed flush all the excess hangin out back on the taillight side. SLowly welded it all up then seam sealed.

Side tubs in general

First trimmed the frame rail side again just like the middle tub. Then used the straight level again and traced levely around the the quarter panel side. u will notice that in my picture and when u are ready to cut yours that is has a slow curve upwards. this is why i used the straight edge based off of the frame rail so u could trace a parallel line on the qaurter panel side. then trace another sraight line on the gas tank side. basically trace a level line all the way around thats parrellel to the frame rail. then made a template. spot welded in place, slowly welded it all up and seam sealed.

Of coarse your first ruff on the metal might be alittle off when u hold ur template up to the car, so take your time and slowly trim till your poster board or card board fits flush all the way around, other wise when u got to weld it and u have big gaps ur gunna hate life. this is thin metal and all your seams need to be flush because even a mig will still blow threw the light gauge metal, and if you know any thing about holes.....their not fun to weld up on thin gauge metal

Seam Sealer

Get at any parts store usually. when u use this buy some laquer thinner so u can smooth it out good. other wise it sticks to your fingers and you will not be able to smooth it out. Gloves are recommended cuz this takes awile and ur hands are constantly covered in laquer thinner(dries your hands out and makes them crack and just unplesant) I used tape lines so that i wouldnt make a mess and also have nice straight lines of sealer.

Hope this made some sense and gave you some ideas

Good Luck

nemss1

thanx millerpa. excellent write-up! greatly appreciated!

nemss1

is the sheetmetal with the bumpstop spot-welded to the ttop tub? so if i remove the ttop tub, can i remove the bumpstop metal completely instead of trim it?

millerpa

iTrader: (14)

is the sheetmetal with the bumpstop spot-welded to the ttop tub? so if i remove the ttop tub, can i remove the bumpstop metal completely instead of trim it?

Not sure wut your talking about?

nemss1

just researched the bottom of my car. no it isnt sot-welded to the ttop tub

nemss1

talked to a buddy that i worked with at a bodyshop. i thought u couldnt weld aluminum but he confirmed this and he suggested to rivet aluminum panels and would be lighter

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

There is some epoxies that people use that is just as good as welding. Check out the body shops and they will hook you up, 3M makes one. I hear some stuff called Fusor is the best.

They use it for quarter pannels and all. Get someting with some work time, once it cures its pernament and if you try and pull it apart you will tear the metal before you break the bond.

You could rivet it with some silicone or something in the middle but I would use sollid rivets.... good ole rivet gun and a bucking bar.

Unless you have done this before (solid rivets) I would not advise it.