ping2day

iTrader: (5)

Is anybody using a 11.5 pound Bralle Battery or lightweight battery instead of going thru all the relocation trouble? I am debating which way to go. Would it be better to relocate the weight into the back passenger for traction or just drop weight using the small battery?

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I just switched from a light wieght up front to a yellow top optima out back. A smaller battery will have to be near 100% to crank the car. I got tired of having to hook up the charger all the time cause the car wouldnt start. I cost me a good bit of weight to go with the relocation, but I think it's worth it.

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, what kind of Battery were you running up front? I'M Just pricing out each option and also the benefits. I have an Optima up front now and it is heavy. What kit did you use to go to the back?

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

I had an odyssey pc 680, it lasted all year (car has been sitting now so its dead) in a semi daily driver, by semi I mean every nice day without rain I drove her, and it never had a hard time starting. When it got cold it would crank slow, but it was less than 32 degree's out, so im happy with it. I would never go back to a big battery if I dont have to. All the cable, the switch, the box, and of coarse the battery was like 50+ lbs over what I have now....

ping2day

iTrader: (5)

That is true the battery is over 30 pounds plus the wiring and switches have to add quite a bit more weight. I'm looking at the Braille 11.5lb battery. Didn't a sponsor have a deal on them a while back?

01sscam

I went with a pc680, its light and it starts the car just fine.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I might try a 15lb motorcycle battery up front. If you Google "Deka ETX battery" you'll see their line of batteries and some reviews on them. According to these BMW chaps, something like the Deka ETX14L is comparable to the PC680, but they are less money.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=925664

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I have the braille 15 pound battery up front, and never once had a problem with it starting. I did a test once, where I left the ignition on, headlights on, and radio on at mid level for 1 hour straight. Started up , was a little slow, but still started.

Something to think about is when you relocate your battery to the rear is how much that big *** cord weighs. Did that in my 98 formula, and i remember it wasnt light.

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I had the interstate battery version. It probably wasn't of the same quality as the other batteries. It worked fine when I first got it, but my car sits for two weeks at a time and it would not crank the car after sitting. Plus the battery probably didn't like my 400 amp charger on it when I didn't have time for a slow charger.

I didn't buy a kit to relocate mine. I had a optima yellow top that I made a battery tray for with hold down and all. I would have bought the AFCO tray but my battery won't fit in that one.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I had a pc680, what a nightmare that thing was. For a stock compression car it's probably fine, but throw a 400 inch 13.5 to 1 at it and forget it that battery will NOT get it done, trust me on this.

Just put a full size one in the back, anything will do, put your shutoff switch in and be done with it.

I hated putting the 50 lbs back into the car, but there was no way that little battery was gonna get it done. Everyone I know that has gone taht route ends up with a headache of the car dying at some point or another.

Nevermind if ya want to start the car in the cold. you can totally forget about that, the little battery in teh cold lost a TON of cranking power and quick. Hell I went to atco in november a little over a year ago now, and had that little turd battery in teh car all charged up and whatnot, and just the 45 degree weather was enough to have to jump pack teh car every time I wanted to start it. It SUCKED!

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Bringing this back from the dead. I was debating the same thing. I might just pick up a red top optima and relocate it.

I know the rules say any battery must have a sealed box but I think the local tracks around me are cool with the optima in a tray with a cutoff.

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

True that...+1 my braille is a PITA!

VIPRETR2

iTrader: (63)

If you don't need the room up front I would just use a smaller battery. I bought a ETX16 from Advanced Auto after seeing this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ery-cheap.html

I haven't had a problem yet. My car usually sits all week and has started fine in temps from below freezing to mid eighties so far. 50lbs. is alot of weight to add if you don't need to. Good luck,

Larry

BigKap94z

iTrader: (47)

Thats the battery i just got, Ill be installing it this week. If i have problems with it ill just use it when i go to race, and run the Optima when i DD the car. 20lbs off the nose of the car is very appealing.

Bitemark46

I did both. Relocated the braille battery to the rear. WHen I go racing I bring the full size battery and a battery charger just in case.

-Mark

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Does anyone know if Optima's/Gel batterys are legal to run without a battery box these days? I seem to be getting mixed reviews. Some say it is up to the local track whether or not you can. The rule book says you need one with rumors that might change.