Tip, Lightweight Battery on the cheap
11 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 3
From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
You're going to defeat the purpose of the lightweight battery. Cabling, box, switches are all going to add weight. I think the cable alone weighed around 20lbs iirc on my car.
But there's just no way that thing is going to have enough juice the start
the car with an extra 12-15ft of 2ga wire (plus the round trip though the frame for ground) in the mix.
However, moving the battery to the back is a great mod in itself.
Ill probably just get another red top then. I have my kill switch and all that already back there and a battery bracket. I was just trying to save money more than anything. I am running my intake through the hole were the battery/overflow went through so im not putting it up front.
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Wont work in the rear. Too much strain on it.
It should be fine with a EWP. I wouldn't turn the pump on till the car is on though. I would wire it to get 12v key on. Not a source that has 12v key cranking. I would also put in a bypass toggle switch so you can manuly turn it off if the car is going to be sitting with the key on....ie loading a tune.
It should be fine with a EWP. I wouldn't turn the pump on till the car is on though. I would wire it to get 12v key on. Not a source that has 12v key cranking. I would also put in a bypass toggle switch so you can manuly turn it off if the car is going to be sitting with the key on....ie loading a tune.
I just put a 15lbs Braille battery in the trunk of my stang and it cranks the 12.5:1 383 over fine in 50 degree shop. Any lower temp than that might not work. I hope it works out well this season. The down side, $150.
